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Fridge Won't Light for Nothin :-(

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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Vermonster - Labor rate for the two I dealt with was more in the $20-25 range bsed on time spent / charge.
    Second guy knew what he was doing, recommended by the trailer/rv part depot in a big city. First guy was somewhat out in the boonies. Asked second guy if he wanted to look at the troubleshooting diag., said nope, didn't need it. Hooked up a meter to the wires out of the valve, took a reading while pressing the red button, watched the reading rise, declared the thermocouple and valve working and board dead. Also looked at the quality of flame thru the little glass window.
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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    The saga continued...
    So, new board, new thermocouple and everything was hunky dorrie for a month - other than I had to hold the red button in a lot longer than I used to - then it started acting flaky again. Would light right up sometimes and then it wouldn't. Would stay lit after 15 seconds, then would take 2-3 minutes, then wouldn't light. Finally wouldn't light at all.
    Just had a service tech out and bamo, figured it right out - Nut that seats the thermocouple to the safety switch had worked loose - evidently the last tech didn't get it tight enough (I remember him say you don't want to overtighten that nut). As it worked loose it worked or not depending on just how the thermocouple was sitting and if it happened to be making contact or not. He tightened the nut an 1/8th inch and it worked - I just looked at him and burst out laughing. So simple and yet with all the previous trouble I didn't even think to check that. The simplest thing it could have been :-)

    Moral of the story - Check your nuts (and bolts).
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  • ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,549
    Thanks for the update. Do you have a photo or description of the offending nut?

    I've been following your saga with great interest because somehow I just know my Norcold is plotting to kick me in the...eh...shins one of these days. I hope to be fully schooled in its repair when that happens.
    2015 T@B S

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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    This little bugger - Screws into the safety valve which is connected to the circuit board...Is on the end of the Thermocouple...


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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited July 2018
    One thing about this whole ordeal is - How do you find a good Norcold tech - The Norcold site lists dozens for each largish city. Who's good, who's not?
    And if you're on the road, there may not even be one anywhere close :-(
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  • ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,549
    Ahhh, that one. Seems this drama has now come full circle...
    2015 T@B S

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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited November 2016
    Since I'd had the Thermocouple and board replaced, the only thing left in the chain was the safety valve the thermocouple screws into - The tech had looked up the part number before coming out - Norcold-617944 - In case anyone needs it.
    Edit: Ooops, that's for the bigger part - The Interrupter is 621737 ($25)
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  • FuzzyYanniFuzzyYanni Member Posts: 112
    edited November 2016
    Here is that part $100

    Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 617944 Gas Valve Thermostat Control $101
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031XHVDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Flnyb7GWKH5C

    The interruptor only is $13.05
    https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-Inc-Refrigerators-621737-Thermocouple/dp/B0031XI4W4

    What year is your fridge?

    After this tread I will be travelling with  $350 worth of spare norcold parts in the trailer.

    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited November 2016
    Fuzzy - 2015
    $100...That's for the whole valve - it's what the safety valve (interrupter) screws into.
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  • jcfaber1jcfaber1 Member Posts: 318
    You might want to use some thread adhesive so that it doesn't work loose.

    2007 T@B

    Rockford, IL

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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209

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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209



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  • ChanWChanW Member Posts: 3,161
    Yeah, I told ya so.... It just took you a few hundred bux to figure out I was right.  B-) 
    Chan  -  near Buffalo NY
    2014 S Maxx
    2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah! 

     A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited November 2016
    ChanW - Yes on this second round - No on the first. The bucks were on the first and that wasn't a loose connection.
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  • ChanWChanW Member Posts: 3,161
    I know, just pulling yr leg. Glad the sequel was cheaper for you!
    Chan  -  near Buffalo NY
    2014 S Maxx
    2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah! 

     A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    :-) ... Can't believe I didn't check that nut - did every other time I screwed with it. There's really only two things you can putz with, the seating/position of the thermocouple probe and that nut.
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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    Norcold 3 way fridge in 2016 Tab S lights on propane, green light doesn't come on, ignitor does not turn off.  
    I parked at a site a few days ago with a full tank of propane, began using fridge on propane at night and solar/battery during the day.  Yesterday switching back to propane, the ignitor worked, the little window beside fridge underneath shows that the pilot light is ignited, but the green light never came on and the electronic ignitor continued ticking and will not shut off.  If we pull the 1 amp glass fuse on top of the fridge the ticking stops and the pilot light goes out.
    Does anyone know what my next step should be?
    Thanks in advance!
    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    @JasonC424, turn off your propane tank for about 5 minutes, and turn your fridge to off, also. Then after 5 full minutes, turn your propane on, turn on the fridge on, turn the setting to 4, then hold the red button until the green light stays lit.  Adjust your setting to your normal setting. 

    I did this to @cbarnhill’s fridge when she got there yesterday and it worked. 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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  • ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    @JasonC424, I agree with Verna.  Just a word of advise though....when you turn on the propane, turn the knob slowly, don't be in a big rush. If you turn it on too fast, it makes the regulator do very weird things, and the propane won't flow properly. I'm not too sure why you choose to switch from propane to battery/solar, but propane is much more efficient, & the fridge is VERY frugal on propane. Next question for me would be...how level is your trailer? Being not level creates a problem with lighting, and maintaining the flow of the propane as well. Just trying to touch all the bases so you have a trouble free rest of your stay.  ;) Let us know how you're doing please.
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    Eric,
    Verna stopped by and gave it a go, but we couldn't get it working right.  The pilot light comes on, the green light does not and the ticking of the ignitor does not stop, even when the thermocoupler is heated and the pilot light seems fine.
    Still looking for ideas of what I can try
    Thanks!

    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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  • ChanWChanW Member Posts: 3,161
    edited February 2018
    I wonder how your battery is, if you're running a 3-way fridge on battery/solar for any period of time. Or do you have an amazing solar array? That fridge draws 11A @ 12V.
    Maybe your battery voltage has dropped too low??
    Chan  -  near Buffalo NY
    2014 S Maxx
    2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah! 

     A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks Chan, I have a monitor, the battery is fine.  The solar is 200 watts, and I only use it for the fridge for part of the afternoon when the sun is direct and I watch the amps.  I might stick to propane from now on just to avoid any issues like this.  For now I borrowed a cooler from a fellow camper and bought a block of ice, so there is no urgency to get it sorted.  Hopefully I'll have it figured out in the coming week.
    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    Just a note, the fridge seems to work fine on propane, but the green light doesn't come on and the ignitor continues to tick as if the flame has gone out.
    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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  • ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    @JasonC424, Might be a silly question, but here goes...Is your igniter button maybe stuck, and coincidentally the light went out at the same time? You have the exact same trailer as do I, and I'm REALLY curious at this point what the issue may be. Please keep me posted to what you find the issue to be. One happy note is that your fridge is working. ;)  
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    @ericnliz, no, the igniter button wasn’t stuck because I was changing which finger was pressing on it for over two minutes and the button was definitely depressing and spring loaded ;)
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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  • ericnlizericnliz Member Posts: 4,437
    :lol:, Had to laugh at that one! Some say I'm a little "spring loaded" but I STILL get stuck once in a while! :rofl:;)
    2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B
    TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
    Spokane, Wa.
    Eric aka: Lone Wolf  


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  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,394
    My igniter became corroded. It might need cleaning.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    jkjenn said:
    My igniter became corroded. It might need cleaning.
    Jenn, may I ask if you came to find out that it was corroded?  Did you have a similar problem with your fridge?  Thanks!
    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,394
    JasonC424 said:
    jkjenn said:
    My igniter became corroded. It might need cleaning.
    Jenn, may I ask if you came to find out that it was corroded?  Did you have a similar problem with your fridge?  Thanks!
    It was slightly different. The green light came on and stayed on, but it was not actually lighting. It was deceptive. The green light should not have stayed on. I took it dealer and they said it was unfixable. I took it to NuCamp and they are the ones that found the corroded igniter.

    I get the impression you are out west, so taking it to NuCamp is probably not realistic. It is really challenging to get someone who knows how to fix these fridges. 

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • JasonC424JasonC424 Member Posts: 18
    Yes Jenn, I am in southern Arizona at the moment, but will be at Joshua Tree NP next weekend.  I wonder if there is a techie group or diy rv group or forum that I could post in with a description of the issue.
    2016 T@b 320 S
    200 watts Renogy Solar Panels 
    2008 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder RWD
    Delaware, Ohio
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