@ericnliz, it would be tough to give up the propane advantage. Even with all of PXLated's problems of late, his 3-way fridge is such a miser on propane. I would miss that feature if I went to the ARB full-time. I know what I spent for propane for last winter in AZ, and it was dirt cheap to be running the fridge and the Alde.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Verna, but your battery capacity and solar would work well with the low amp draw ARB, don't you think?
Yes, @SAM, I run the ARB every time I am camping with a cord going through the truck window and plugged into the T@B's batteries. My batteries have no problem keeping the T@B, contents, satellite dish and the ARB running. If I were to run into dismal weather as we are having right now, I'm sure I could still run at least three days without solar....but I don't want to find out!
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
You didn't know me when I was working - I was self employed and always said my boss was the biggest jerk boss anywhere :-) But - I've never found getting ones blood pressure up over something you have no control over to be worthwhile or productive so have always been tolerant of that. And it helps to not have tight plans, timeframes or destinations. If you don't have any they can't get too screwed up :-)
Ouch, I feel for ya. Hopefully, the next few days will bring a positive conclusion.
That's one reason why I chose to teach myself about solid state circuit boards; have been known to go over them with a high-magnifying set-up and use a Wahl cordless pencil-tip soldering iron to replace pieces, after being told "it couldn't be done"… but I fear those days are rapidly coming to an end….
Best of luck, and yes, my fingers are crossed for you, too.
That's one reason why I chose to teach myself about solid state circuit boards; have been known to go over them with a high-magnifying set-up and use a Wahl cordless pencil-tip soldering iron to replace pieces, after being told "it couldn't be done"… but I fear those days are rapidly coming to an end….
Yeah, I am curious about this "circuit board" myself - the schematic doesn't look all that complicated.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
PXL, Not only tight plans, but keep the pink flamingo skivvies loose too, tight pants just aggravate 'ya! [First time I read your thread above, I thought you said tight pants, not tight plans, I had to chuckle, and....] Where are my reading glasses?
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
The part number for "my" serial number is... Norcold 633326 ($160+shipping) ...It's the Reigniter Board... A reminder though - The parts depot and the service guy said Norcold changes the part numbers all the time (wether they actually change anything in the parts is questionable) so you need to have your model number as well as the serial number when you call a parts place and then they call Norcold - again, according to these two guys but they were pretty straight up guys. The board is really easy to change out - two philips head screws. Just make sure you get the wires plugged in correctly but if you take a pic that should be easy. Also, about that thermocouple listed above (Amazon) - It's actually not a twin of the original, it's a foot longer. Whomever the first service guy called must have given him the wrong number. Better long than short though.
If you stick with the same cabinet size, I don't think it makes much difference if you go Engle, ARB or Norcold (model used in CS models). The Norcold and ARB models use identical compressors anyway. The Engle is slightly more efficient but noticeably louder. They're all far more efficient in portable form as they have more insulation. Norcold makes portable models too that compete well.
For Pxl's use and setup, yeah probably best to stay with propane since 12v fridges can drain a group 24 battery overnight unless you have a 2 battery setup, or larger battery.
T@@bulous 2014 T@B CS Maxx TV: 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 V6 TDI (diesel) Martha Lake, WA
That number isn't even close to my number and its the same fridge right? What is the current board number for you ? and what is the new one?
My actual relighter board is :619868
The manual states part number: 607964 (old and out of date)
I know my relighter has been changed in the last two years - FYI
sounds like the latest one is : 633326 (replacing the 619868) but seriously they cannot be that different otherwise the rest of the fridge wouldn't work. I'm willing to bet money you could probably grab a reigniter from Dometic and it will work perfect. I'm *almost* willing to buy one to try this theory out. I would need to know if the Thermocouple range is different for Norcold VS Dometic but I seriously doubt it.
Fuzzy - The part number I listed is what Norcold themselves came back with when the parts depot called in my fridge serial number. Not surprised yours doesn't match based on what the parts people said about Norcold always changing part numbers. I know nothing other than what they told me :-)
Photomom, yeah, I see the resin-filled "board"… and right, not much chance to troubleshoot that. Yet another example of "Welcome to the replaceable society." Arrggh!
Facebook is way better for having a realtime conversation / chat that forums - that is assuming you want to have a realtime conversation. Forums are better for searching and retrieving past conversations. To each his own folks. I do both.
Facebook tends to get unfiltered add-on posts. Somebody mentions they're having trouble with X and before you know it people are like "OMG, T@Bs are junk!"
I follow a number of FB T@B pages and they are a great place to find out where people have camped with their trailers and how they've modded them. This is the best place, by far, to learn about the trailers and get good advice about resolving issues. And it is much easier to search for previously posted things here.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
Ok, got the fridge working - new circuit board... $175-Board, $50-Labor, $75-OvernightAir = $300 + $125 for the thermocouple/labor with the first service guy. More when I've got a better connection.
Comments
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
But - I've never found getting ones blood pressure up over something you have no control over to be worthwhile or productive so have always been tolerant of that.
And it helps to not have tight plans, timeframes or destinations. If you don't have any they can't get too screwed up :-)
That's one reason why I chose to teach myself about solid state circuit boards; have been known to go over them with a high-magnifying set-up and use a Wahl cordless pencil-tip soldering iron to replace pieces, after being told "it couldn't be done"… but I fear those days are rapidly coming to an end….
Best of luck, and yes, my fingers are crossed for you, too.
Please share the year of your Norcold and the part number.
Thanks
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
http://www.roadtrucker.com/engel/engel-ac-dc-built-in-fridge-freezer-60-quart.htm
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
The board is really easy to change out - two philips head screws. Just make sure you get the wires plugged in correctly but if you take a pic that should be easy.
Also, about that thermocouple listed above (Amazon) - It's actually not a twin of the original, it's a foot longer. Whomever the first service guy called must have given him the wrong number. Better long than short though.
For Pxl's use and setup, yeah probably best to stay with propane since 12v fridges can drain a group 24 battery overnight unless you have a 2 battery setup, or larger battery.
2014 T@B CS Maxx
TV: 2015 Audi Q7 3.0 V6 TDI (diesel)
Martha Lake, WA
My actual relighter board is :619868
The manual states part number: 607964 (old and out of date)
I know my relighter has been changed in the last two years - FYI
sounds like the latest one is : 633326 (replacing the 619868) but seriously they cannot be that different otherwise the rest of the fridge wouldn't work. I'm willing to bet money you could probably grab a reigniter from Dometic and it will work perfect. I'm *almost* willing to buy one to try this theory out. I would need to know if the Thermocouple range is different for Norcold VS Dometic but I seriously doubt it.
http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-relighter-board-633326-replaced-619868-fits-the-3163-model/
*update* found an older 619868 on ebay for $99 *BAM* INSTANT PURCHASE
(thanks PXLated)
I know nothing other than what they told me :-)
(I think Yanni likes his campers….)
Yes, leaning towards one, strongly.
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
I follow a number of FB T@B pages and they are a great place to find out where people have camped with their trailers and how they've modded them. This is the best place, by far, to learn about the trailers and get good advice about resolving issues. And it is much easier to search for previously posted things here.
More when I've got a better connection.