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Thanks, Scott. I called Century and was told if the ph was between 8 and 10 the corrosion protection is still effective. I also was told any ph strips used for hot tubs or swimming pools work fine.
Here is a YouTube video with Paul Beckley interviewing an Alde/Truman rep. .......Also, at 6:00 he clarified the issue with placing RV antifreeze in the Alde hot water tank. It has nothing to do with damage to the stainless steel tank. The issue is if the boiling point of the antifreeze is lower than the 180 F temperature that the Alde reaches, you will hear the antifreeze boil and bubble within the hot water tank. So, they noted that the Camco brand RV AF has a boiling point of 220 F and you can winterize the TaB and Alde with that product and run the Alde for cabin heat without problem.
@mona, thank you for your detailed report--I'm sorry to hear that you have the same issue. Hopefully we will come to find that this is peculiar to the convectors and does not extend into the boiler. FWIW, that first connection one of the places I found a bulge. It was small but probably the largest of all of them. The pipe underneath still felt solid and there was no visible corrosion.How much use does your Alde get?
@ScottG - “Aye, the haggis is in the fire now for sure”! I noticed in one of the manuals you put me onto it says “Never leave the glycol jacket empty”…so I’m headed to Ace to pick up a couple of rubber pipe caps so I can fill mine with fresh glycol while my boiler is out of the camper. It seems I can't get into anything without seeing other things that also require attention. The Alde issue led me to see some old water damage where water got past the outside receptacle so I'm rebuilding/replacing the rear bench supports with some new stuff (pic will follow at a later date). And thank you all for all the great info you've been sending my way!
@Ratkity - That yellowing in the vinyl could be the glue used to put it down, bleeding through, part of my JOAT/MON (jack of all trades/master of none) complex coming through there. Also, I LOVE your “overkill repairs”, we’re like lost twins as I’m ALWAYS overkilling my solutions!
@BridgerSunset - “trade secret” - a) something you don’t want your competitors to know and be able to copy, or b) something you don’t want the world to know and it become a liability Kudos on your really smart hopes! I knew it wasn’t going to be hard to find people smarter than me!
@Sharon_is_SAM - that vid reminds me of my former part-time life as an auto mechanic, white “smoke” exiting the tailpipe is almost always a blown head gasket between the water cooling jacket and the combustion chamber…but I digress.
@mona - You’re breaking my heart, I was so hoping no one who did the suggested glycol maintenance would be cursed with a bulge. I'm sorry to hear that.
To all concerned: @mona ’s recent find does tweak my brain again when I wondered what would happen if perhaps the convector pipe tailpieces had been “cleaned” prior to hooking the heater hoses up to them. Aluminums natural protective oxide would have been removed and not given time for it to rebuild before being covered over by the hose…?
On a personal note: I am approaching this corrosion issue I have by trying to find out why it happened so I can make sure to fix it right and not repeat the sins of the fathers. I am in no way “looking for a culprit” or someone to blame for what I have, there are no warranty claims because I have no warranty. I’m just looking for an answer so I can only do this repair job once before I die 8^ D
@ChanW, I see you have weighed in here. IIRC you have an older Alde that has gotten a fair amount use, and you've changed your glycol at least once. How do your convectors look?