Best Of
Re: Suggestions for a 200 watt foldable solar panel?
@Tabaz. That's a nice option!
However, I recently upgraded to lithium but did not replace my converter....so I need my solar controller to get the batteries up to 100% SOC. I'm guessing there are a lot of other people with the same issue.
However, I recently upgraded to lithium but did not replace my converter....so I need my solar controller to get the batteries up to 100% SOC. I'm guessing there are a lot of other people with the same issue.
Re: New nuCamp Product Announcement
They are really teasing it, aren't they? lol
Re: What's the best PSI
Excellent response from Grumpy_G. Mic drop on that! I run 45 pounds.
I generally make a habit or keeping the tanks empty when I tow. To each their own, but water is heavy, moves around, and I have never had a problem filling up en-route.
I generally make a habit or keeping the tanks empty when I tow. To each their own, but water is heavy, moves around, and I have never had a problem filling up en-route.
Re: Suggestions for a 200 watt foldable solar panel?
The limiting controller spec is not the amperage, it's voltage. Damage may result if the panel output voltage is too high for the controller, but the amperage rating is maximum the controller is capable of supplying to your battery regardless of the amps coming in from the panel.
Best practice is to buy a panel without an onboard controller and install a controller as close to the battery as possible. This will reduce voltage drop. When installed, our nuCamp trailers come with Victron products. For a 200W panel a 75/15 Victron controller will cover the requirements of most panel manufactures. That's a max of 75 volts allowed coming into the controller and it will output no more than 15 amps.
Best practice is to buy a panel without an onboard controller and install a controller as close to the battery as possible. This will reduce voltage drop. When installed, our nuCamp trailers come with Victron products. For a 200W panel a 75/15 Victron controller will cover the requirements of most panel manufactures. That's a max of 75 volts allowed coming into the controller and it will output no more than 15 amps.
Re: 2015 Tab 320 Outback Driver's side taillight running light
General Comments:Parlando said:
. . . MuttonChops . . . wondering if you have any ideas for troubleshooting my lights
- 1 - If the tail light LED unit is defective, I would not replace the 'eyebrow'.
A heat gun should weaken the sealant so the old light assembly can be removed.
- 2 - Many folks have been able to pop the LED circuit board out of the housing.
If the LED assembly is bad I'd again attempt to get the Board out first (see #3)
- 3 - It may not be possible to purchase the L15-0021. Possible other brand units don't
match the L15 size so full replacement of the assembly will be needed. There are a
couple of forum threads on installing a different brand light.
- 4 - Your observation that the tow vehicle or trailer 7-pin may impact brightness is
interesting. Poor connects causes high contact resistance which lowers the voltage
at the final wire end.
Troubleshooting Ideas:
- A - Use the trailer battery to fully test the tail light assemblies.
Run a wire from the Battery Positive to the 7-pin contacts for L/R Turn and the
running/tail lights One-at-a-Time.
Observe LEDs (dark shade might be helpful) can you see if the correct number of LEDs are on.
- B - If 'A' results are poor, move the battery jumper wire to the Junction Box location.
If results are Good then 7-pin connector or cable has issues.
If results are still poor . . . time to consider replacing LED assembly.
Test Overview:
Tail Light Assembly Theory of Operation:
A heat gun should weaken the sealant so the old light assembly can be removed.
- 2 - Many folks have been able to pop the LED circuit board out of the housing.
If the LED assembly is bad I'd again attempt to get the Board out first (see #3)
- 3 - It may not be possible to purchase the L15-0021. Possible other brand units don't
match the L15 size so full replacement of the assembly will be needed. There are a
couple of forum threads on installing a different brand light.
- 4 - Your observation that the tow vehicle or trailer 7-pin may impact brightness is
interesting. Poor connects causes high contact resistance which lowers the voltage
at the final wire end.
Troubleshooting Ideas:
- A - Use the trailer battery to fully test the tail light assemblies.
Run a wire from the Battery Positive to the 7-pin contacts for L/R Turn and the
running/tail lights One-at-a-Time.
Observe LEDs (dark shade might be helpful) can you see if the correct number of LEDs are on.
- B - If 'A' results are poor, move the battery jumper wire to the Junction Box location.
If results are Good then 7-pin connector or cable has issues.
If results are still poor . . . time to consider replacing LED assembly.
Test Overview:
Tail Light Assembly Theory of Operation:
Re: Tire blowout on 2021 tab 320S - here's what happened.
I don’t know if I would do that with my 320s, using the stabilizer jacks and tongue jack to change a tire. I would if it were my only option but I carry small scissor jack that can slip under the jacking point even with a flat tire. However, I’m not comfortable changing the tire sitting solely on the scissor jack and will definitely lower the stabilizer jacks and tongue jack to steady the trailer before I change the tire.
Re: Refusal for T@B 400 to stay at RV Resort Sea Perch RV Yachats, Oregon
"All vehicles must be year 2005 or newer, no less than 18 feet in length and in good condition at the time of check-in. We do not host: Truck Campers, Tear Drop, Pop-up Tent Trailers, Travel Trailers with Canvas Pop-Outs, Casitas, Vans, Busses, Conversion Vans or restored RV's." Quite elitist 
You couldn't pay me enough to stay in a place like this. Have you looked at the satellite views of the "resort"? I take a forest service or BLM campground any day, thank you very much.
You couldn't pay me enough to stay in a place like this. Have you looked at the satellite views of the "resort"? I take a forest service or BLM campground any day, thank you very much.
Re: T@B 360 Damaged upon delivery - Resolved
@CanadianCamper Thanks for the update. I have edited the title of this discussion to reflect your resolution. Glad it worked out and enjoy!
Re: Need help with Maxxair Maxxfan upgrade
@aponteluis From what I remember the original fan is held on with the interior trim/flange screws going up through the roof into the top half of the fan. So it's kind of being sandwiched (squeezed) by the screws, bottom flange, and top of fan. In a way I like this more than the Maxxfan because it's less holes in the roof.
Re: Question re: solar and lithium battery
The monitor certainly needs to be correctly synched to know where you’re at, but perhaps the bigger issue is that the battery voltage was at 10v. Regardless of what the monitor thinks, the battery was low.
Battery management while off-grid is a whole new learning curve. Was the battery fully charged when you left? Were you getting full sun and did the solar panel get the battery recharged each day? How many days were you out? Did you use your inverter? Did you run the stereo and/or television? Did you pre-cool the fridge? Ambient temp?
The single 100ah battery doesn’t have a lot of capacity, and depending on the answers to the questions above, maybe you simply ran out of juice. As I said, off-grid camping and power management will take some time to learn. Getting the monitor synched is just the beginning!
