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Hmmm.  That response doesn't make much sense.  Batteries connected in parallel pretty quickly balance out to the same voltage.  If one is higher voltage it quickly charges the lower voltage battery until they reach equilibrium.  What you're seeing is the minor variations in the SOC (voltage) meters.  I bet if you swapped the meters between the batteries, the percentage SOC would follow the meter, not stay with each battery.

Forgot to ask: Confirm you got an AGM battery not a LiFePo battery? As @pthomas745 mentioned the latter type turns off the output completely when the charge gets too low. 

Do you have a voltmeter at hand? That would be the best tool to troubleshoot this. 

Not to insult you, but one thing I can think of is that the battery is connected the wrong way around, this causes the reverse polarity fuse in the power center to blow. The solar charge controller will also not recognize the battery. 

Basic troubleshooting: measure voltage between battery posts, measure voltage between battery switch and ground (e.g. the trailer frame, check reverse polarity fuse. 

AnOldUR said:

skibug said:

The “consumed Ah” number is how much power has been consumed since the last time the battery was fully charged. 

I don’t believe that this is true. I think the consumed Ah is related to the percentage state of charge. It’s not a running total, rather it’s the amount that your battery capacity that has been lowered. In real time, draws will make this number bigger at the same time inputs (such as solar) will make it smaller. 

In other words, if you have a 100Ah battery and your percentage state of charge is 75%, then your consumed Ah will be 25Ah regardless of what draws or inputs were made.

Is this correct?

It's a net number (net of power in and power out). I'm pretty sure that the SmartShunt is programmed to use that net number to calculate the SOC. 

As you are probably aware T@bs in Europe are built by Tabbert while the US models are built in the US by NuCamp/Pleasant Valley Teardrop (or Dutchmen very early on). While looking similar they have significant technical differences from power systems to heaters to brakes etc.. Looking at the current offerings from Tabbert, the 320 off-road does not have a 12V battery unless it has the optional 1000 Euro 12V supply package which includes battery, charger, battery monitor. What I'm getting at is that there is a good chance your trailer is not set up for a battery to begin with. 

TourDeForth said:

I ran into the issue of trying to squeeze 10 gauge wire into those tiny holes on the solar controller. First I tried twisting them tightly and insert them carefully, nope, wires kept fraying spilling out. Then I bought a ferrule set (been wanting one anyway) but couldn’t find a pin that fit 10 gauge wire and crimp down small enough to fit in the controller. I got a wild idea and ended up tinning the wire ends with just solder and then using the ferrule crimper on that, lol! It worked but took a few squeezes…

I am suprised that you had issues with 10 awg wire. My two solar chargers are wired to the battery using 8 awg wire. I had no issues whatsoever inserting the wire into the solar controller.