MikeT It's very important to understand that the floor strength is totally dependent on the bonds between the core (aluminum tubes) and the skins (plywood sheets). Any one of the components on there own are incapable of any meaningful support of the trailer loads. Much like corrugated cardboard is just three sheets of paper without the glue. Even if the plywood looks solid (unlikely). if the 18 year old bonds between it and the aluminum tubes are failing (likely), the strength is lost. One of he first sign of a sagging floor is in the wheel well areas of the interior. You will find the tops of the side benches do not sit flat and square any longer and the center support is breaking loose from the outer wall or inner framing. (Some examples pictured below). High mileage and rough roads aggravate the condition. Everything is repairable but this problem is not a matter of patching or replacing bad areas. The floor assembly has to be one single solid structure. Good luck... Bob
No, the city water port won’t fill your tank on a Tab without the Nautilus system, which wasn’t present on pre-2021 320 models. (I know nothing about the Nautilus, so anyone who does, feel free to chime in with specifics on that.) Most of us use an adapter like this on the hose end to fill via the sidewall tank inlet. https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Shutoff-Efficiently-Eliminates-Backflow/dp/B0006IX850/ And yes, it’s a bit slow still.
@Liam_n_Maggie You're so welcome. I know earlier lists were posted but as I couldn't find them quickly, I decided we needed yet another one. No harm in a redundancy like this. I learned a lot about trailers just researching these items. You're unlikely to search for something you don't know you need in the first place. Good luck with matching your tv and trailer lug wrench!
I had been running the fridge on AC for 24hours prior to a four day trip last week. Fridge was good, then about 2 hours before leaving tried to startup (first time since I've owned the T@B) on propane . No go, same problem. Tried maybe 10 times. I opened the exterior lower side panel and igniter cover and verified visible spark. You can do this by just removing a couple of screws. Just to make sure it was a gas delivery issue I put a lighter to the burner during the clicking time (which lasted like 30 seconds). Tapped the solenoid a few times. Gas on stove came right on worked fine. Shutoff gas at tank, loosened tank fitting, re-tightened and opened valve slowly. Nothing. Called dealer, they indicated I did exactly what they recommended and said bring it in. Nope, not an option. Since the fridge was cold put the food in fridge but I grabbed a cooler. At destination tried again, nothing. Switched food to a cooler and dealt with that for 4-days. What a PITA.
Returned last night, checked this morning, still did not work. Opened side panel, rapped the solenoid a few times, tried again and after 2 clicks it fired up. I repeat, Arggggggggggggg.
The solenoid is the blue part in the pic, I just used the handle end of the square drive tool to whack on it. I had to hold the black cover (with the grey wire attached) since the assembly can rotate on the valve.
@Sharon_is_SAM, I agree, the screw on cap neck will support a 6-gallon jug while filling freshwater tank. I just loosened the hose clamp behind the fill hatch to remove but cutting the PVC pipe under the sink would be much easier. Following the above thread for @Parlando's instructions would be my recommendation. Good job Parlando!
Per the factory tour, I took in June, getting a floor blank from nuCamp may be difficult or a long wait. They are currently out of the previous Dutchmen floor blanks they had created. They have switched the way the nuCamp floors are made and are working on R&D to make the Dutchmen floor blanks from the new materials.
@MikeT, From your brief description and pics it seems as though you are dealing with a rotten floor. The most susceptible areas in DM T@B's are the wheel wells, front corners, cool cat opening, and door bottom. The crunchy sound at door area is delaminated plywood, the sagging edges is the floor structure falling apart. The luan plywood used by Dutchman is not water resistant nor did they use waterproof glue.
IMHO - you need a whole new floor. . . It's worth it to make your vintage T@B new again.
@MikeT, The downward flex at the edges of your floor is most likely due to the aluminum internal floor framing failing. The framing plus plywood together creates a unibody style structure to give it it's load capacity. The AL frame have spot welds that rely on the plywood glued to it (considered as one unit) for its structural integrity.
Several folks here have done creative patches and repairs to limited areas of their floor. I have not heard how many were successful as follow up posts on many projects is limited.
Congratulations and welcome to the family and forum. There is an extensive amount of experience and knowledge on this forum. In many respects, this forum can be more helpful than the manuals.