Best Of
Re: Awning, Trailer Tent or Visor???
We had the Mini Max Awning with roll up sides. Hated it. We now either take a 10' or 12" Easy-Up canopy for all of our trips.
Re: Highways and Biways
Adding an almost 'panorama' view of the Malahat Drive, just north of Victoria BC on Vancouver Island:
Re: Battery voltage levels
My passions are woodworking, actual camping and traveling, and helping others . As long as we realize what our actual passions are, we can be happy and be passionate about what we want.
Re: 2021 TAB 320 Boondock AIR8 E7 error code
@finding_elias - download the app Image Size. Very easy to use.
Re: What Factory Mods Would You Like on a T@b 400, (What I hate about my T@b)?
@GeoMontana I can attest to Verna's Lagun install method. I didn't do as nice of a job because I am a hack but the table was a game changer for us.
Re: Some "Out the Window" Views
Loon Lake (SE British Columbia)......sorry didn’t get the focus right but it was the most amazing night sky
Re: Hot water problems - Thermostatic Mixing Valve - 2021 Tab 400
2021 TaB400. Experiencing the same issues! However, after a lot of reading here and FB I think we have fixed it. My observations of your situation Pymbur are: The Thermostatic Mixing Valve (TMV) is designed to shut off if the hot water passing through it is too hot. The key take away here is "passing through it". Hence scalding hot water then 100% cold supply as the hot is shut off. The same should thing should happen at the bath and kitchen tap too. Try running each for a bit longer to give the TMV a chance to react. If the water does suddenly go cold then the valve seems to be working properly. Secondly, from your pic. it looks like the adjusting screw on the TMV is out too far, I had the same problem with being unable to balance my hot water temp. at the taps. Here's what I did and it seems to have fixed it. Shut everything off, screw in the adjusting screw on the TMV until it is about 1 thread above its collar (the bibber nut in the housing) On the control panel, set the hot water to "Normal" (i.e. half the triangle filled in). Set the electric to 1 KW. Make sure the LP is off. Now go to the "Service" screen which shows the temperature of the Glycol and the Hot Water. At the above settings they should, eventually, read between 120 and 125 F. Be patient, it can take 20 - 30 minutes. Now, using a calibrated thermometer (meat therm. works fine) run the hot only at the sink. It will run cold/cool then quite hot for a few seconds but should then stabilize. Ideally you want this to be about 41C - 42C / 104-107F. Too hot and you will risk scalding and run out of hot water quickly. Adjust the screw on the TMV as per the instructions in the info. sheet that should have come with it. Repeat the process a few times, keeping an eye on the water temperature in the boiler via the control panel. If the water temperature in the tank drops below the required temperature at the tap, then wait until it heats up to at least 118F. The bathroom should then also be OK by default. Bear in mind that the hot water boiler is not very big so it is easy to run out of hot water and think there is a problem with the TMV. One thing that is not highlighted is that this is NOT the same as your household system The hot water at the tap should be at a useable temperature, WITHOUT adding cold water. Of course these are just my observations, I could be wrong!
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
Yesterday I decided to tackle changing my long-neglected glycol. Although I originally anticipated this to be a relatively straightforward procedure, the recent concerns about corrosion of the aluminum fittings prompted me to do a little inspection in advance of the actual fluid replacement.
I started by disconnecting a few hoses. When that didn't cause the system to turn to dust in my hands, I got a little bolder and kept going. Eventually I removed the hoses from every location at which they were clamped to an aluminum fitting. Here is what I found...
First, the connectors at the Alde itself were pristine, and--as far as I could peer down into them (not very)--there was no evidence of any corrosion or other damage extending into the boiler.
However, every fitting in the convector loop had some degree of greenish salt-like deposits between the rubber hose and the outside of the fitting, and these deposits were associated with corrosion on the outside of the fitting. Some fittings were worse than others--in places where the build-up was greater, it had started to distend the hose, resulting in those characteristic bulges discussed previously.
The good news was that in all cases the corrosion was superficial. The fittings were still solid and the inner surfaces remained clean and undamaged. Here are photos showing the outside and inside of the aluminum connector just downstream of the automatic air bleeder:
In most cases, the hoses themselves had crystals stuck loosely inside them. Since most of them were disconnected at this point anyway, I took them inside for a good scrubbing out with a soft toothbrush and a thorough rinse with hot water. Here's a typical example:
Before reassembling, I cleaned up the affected aluminum with hot water and a scrubby pad. This removed the bulk of the crystalline deposits on the outside of the fittings. Here are before and after pics of the convector under the passenger-side bench:
Reassembly was easy enough, and no leaks were evident after refilling the system. However, if you attempt this I strongly suggest noting which hose goes where. Careful attention to this detail will result in you only having to reassemble the system once. ;-)
If you are interested in reading about the actual glycol replacement, I've posted the details of that job here.
I started by disconnecting a few hoses. When that didn't cause the system to turn to dust in my hands, I got a little bolder and kept going. Eventually I removed the hoses from every location at which they were clamped to an aluminum fitting. Here is what I found...
First, the connectors at the Alde itself were pristine, and--as far as I could peer down into them (not very)--there was no evidence of any corrosion or other damage extending into the boiler.
However, every fitting in the convector loop had some degree of greenish salt-like deposits between the rubber hose and the outside of the fitting, and these deposits were associated with corrosion on the outside of the fitting. Some fittings were worse than others--in places where the build-up was greater, it had started to distend the hose, resulting in those characteristic bulges discussed previously.
The good news was that in all cases the corrosion was superficial. The fittings were still solid and the inner surfaces remained clean and undamaged. Here are photos showing the outside and inside of the aluminum connector just downstream of the automatic air bleeder:
In most cases, the hoses themselves had crystals stuck loosely inside them. Since most of them were disconnected at this point anyway, I took them inside for a good scrubbing out with a soft toothbrush and a thorough rinse with hot water. Here's a typical example:
Before reassembling, I cleaned up the affected aluminum with hot water and a scrubby pad. This removed the bulk of the crystalline deposits on the outside of the fittings. Here are before and after pics of the convector under the passenger-side bench:
Reassembly was easy enough, and no leaks were evident after refilling the system. However, if you attempt this I strongly suggest noting which hose goes where. Careful attention to this detail will result in you only having to reassemble the system once. ;-)
If you are interested in reading about the actual glycol replacement, I've posted the details of that job here.
Re: Rear bumper tube for storage
I had actually gone out and purchased a piece of 6" PVC which I intended to mount under the Tab. Darn thing was so heavy, I returned it to the store!
There's no framing in the back of the tab to mount a heavy piece of PVC.
Camping World has a tube that's lightweight, has covers for the ends, and mounting brackets. I mounted that underneath the back of the Tab, tucked under so it's pretty unnoticeable. It has worked well. Pictures here
There's no framing in the back of the tab to mount a heavy piece of PVC.
