Re: Fuse keeps burning out

I took the advice of @MuttonChops and confirmed which 12VDC Fuses control what. Below is what I discovered:

Fuse 1 (7.5 amp): lights(rear reading, kitchen, porch, ceiling), ALDE
Fuse 2 (15 amp): TV, radio, USB in radio
Fuse 3 ( 15 amp): rear USB
Fuse 4 ( 20 amp): fridge
Fuse 5 ( 7.5 amp) water pump, ceiling fan, CO2 detector

The rear 12 VDC works with each fuse.

This exercise was well worth the 20 minutes it took to complete, just needed a push to do it, (thanks to everyone).

It looks like now I need to monitor the rear USB port and if I continue to experience a blown F 3 fuse just replace it

One last thing, I discovered the red blown fuse light does not work on the circuit board for F 4, is this of any concern other than I do not have a visual for a blown fuse.

Cheers

Freespirit

1 ·

Re: S versus CS

This has worked for years for us. We did modify the legs on the trailer side. I used 2’ of 1/2” pvc to extend the legs so it clears the top of the trailer.

Dalehelman

2 ·

Re: Mounting Spare on Back of T@B

Dalehelman said:

@AnOldUR
No turning back now .... Good luck.

Thanks! I have to admit that my heart was racing and I had nervous sweats while drilling the first holes. It was a relief seeing that I hit the struts and the hole came out where I had planned.

@Sharon_is_SAM ... I though about skipping a rung like the European T@B, but liked the idea of the bolts all being in the cabinent. The way my steel bars and the T@B aluminum bars are sandwiched together, I don't think any additional support will be necessary. The rear cabinet and its dividing partitions should be effective at preventing any bowing and provide extra support.

AnOldUR

2 ·

A Big Hello & Thank You from Georgia!

Just got our 2021 TAB 320 Boondock home yesterday. We have never towed anything, so we were really nervous about that, but towing was a breeze! We also were not certain if we were going to be able to move our TAB around our gravel driveway, but a simple trailer dolly was the answer! This is my early retirement present to myself - after 31 years with state government, I am about ready to hit the road and just enjoy my TAB... With my husband, too, that is. He retired from the state as well.

I can't begin to say what a blessing this forum has been to help us get ready! (Forum + YouTube, that is). I was well equipped (thanks Amazon) with the exact items I needed, and for any questions we had, all we had to do was post a question here and the response has been amazing. I read somewhere that when you buy a TAG or TAB, you also are getting an added social network! You guys are great. I even saved $300 just by showing my dealer that others were getting refunded for my non-existent roof rack on my Boondock.

Our first trip will be to Victoria Bryant State Park here in GA next weekend.

Thanks again, and I am sure I will have more questions soon. (Let's just hope I resized the pics appropriately! And yes, my house is pink, lol).

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/7m/59cvlmb07cuv.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/6f/k9ahl6sue07d.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/c8/uyjdwufzlooy.jpg

GeorgiaMB

5 ·

Re: Trailer brakes?

That is a ball mount. The receiver is the part of the hitch that “receives” the ball mount. That looks about right. Try it and see. We started out with a different ball mount and the tongue was too high, so we changed. After loading the Sienna, it is pretty perfect.

Sharon_is_SAM

1 ·

Re: Need To Move Ball Mount Aft - Options?

This from etrailer - hitch extender vs longer ball mount:

Why Do Hitch Extenders Reduce Hitch Capacity but Long Ball Mounts Do Not

Question:

Hi, I have a general question about how these items affect hitch capacity. I have been looking at a lot of your expert answers and am confused on the theory. Pretty much everywhere in your technical help I see that a hitch extension will reduce hitch capacity by 50. The reason stated is because the hitch extender moves the load out farther from your vehicle, applying more leverage to your hitch. I understand that theory even though I imagine the 50 figure is just a safe level for liability. I would think there would be a differnet percentage for each length of extension. The problem I have is that it seem like a longer shank or ball mount would do exactly the same thing but I dont see that mentioned. Each hitch has a maximum hitch weight spec. and a maximum trailer weight spec. At what ball distance from hitch is this specd at? There must be some standard because, like you say, the further the load is moved out from the hitch, the more leverage there is. One last confusing point was this comment, Using an extender in a 2-1/2 inch receiver does not decrease the tongue weight capacity of the hitch like it would with 2 inch hitches. Why should that matter? Shouldnt it still be 50? Thanks for taking the time to explain this.

asked by: Dean

Expert Reply:

This is a great question that there isn't exactly a great answer for. Hitch extenders not only put the weight further away from the hitch which would increase the leverage on the hitch, but they also add movement to the assembly which will increase the impact of the tongue weight since there will be play between the hitch and hitch accessory. Think of how a jack hammer works to help visualize what I mean.

I wish there was an exact figure as to how much the tongue weight gets reduced by based on the distance away from the hitch pin hole, but none of the manufacturers are willing to get that specific. 50 percent is a conservative number that is easy for people to remember and adhere to and won't get them in trouble.

Longer ball mounts typically have lower capacities than standard ball mounts, so that is generally how they reflect the lower capacity from the increased leverage.

2-1/2 inch hitches also follow a similar train of thought. While the rule doesn't necessarily apply to the hitch it does apply to the extension pieces. If you look at extender like part # RP45292 you will see it has a much lower capacity than a 2-1/2 inch hitch and based on the differing length its used at the capacity changes as well.

expert reply by: Jameson C

Sharon_is_SAM

1 ·

Re: Need To Move Ball Mount Aft - Options?

http://www.visualsc.com/hitch_calc.htm

Here is a good explanation. Just add your measurements to calculate the impact on the tongue weight capacity. The torque increases proportionally to the additional length.

Sharon_is_SAM

2 ·

Re: S versus CS

PedlinPT said:

Just curious how many people go for the CS in relation to the S and why?
Awning ideas for the rear hatch?

I've had a T@B clamshell for a few years now. The clamshell suits me and suits the kind of camping that I do. I grew up camping and backpacking and I kept car camping well into my 50s. I just wanted a cozier bed and door that locks at night so I would feel safer on my own. I mostly camp in state parks and national forests. So my T@B is really a glorified tent and I'm inside it just to sleep and change clothes. I love having the kitchen at the back and I invite tent-camping friends to share my campsite and cooking gear at least 1-2x a year.

If your intention is to use the T@B to visit friends & family (driveway camping), for long road trips involving overnight stops at Cracker Barrel or Cabelas, for Harvest Hosting, or to stay at RV parks, I don't think that I'd recommend the clamshell.

I put a CLAM traveler shelter behind the kitchen for shelter. I also have WingWalls for the sides. And I recently got a big nylon tarp shelter that I can use it as a rainfly over the clamshell hatch and the CLAM in bad weather. Someone recently posted this and I thought that it could be made into a good awning for a clamshell. I have a Coleman screen house that I used to put over the back but it was a pain to set up by myself. If you're a couple something like that might be better than the CLAM.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/x4/cbraojlhbpid.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/y0/nl7lxnxcv2ii.jpeg

Marceline

4 ·

Re: S versus CS

We love our CS-S and are happy we chose it, though understand we are in the minority. 30 years of camping and when we do we're always outside, most of our cooking has been done that way. Its nice for the cook to be where the fun is, our previous units were larger campers with indoor kitchens, my wife and I love this setup. We haven't found a need to put a canopy over the galley area, the hatch is large and nicely covers in a drizzle or blazing sun, but we've only had it one season so we'll see.
On cold mornings, bringing the french press and toaster inside lets us prepare breakfast indoors as the day warms up, we only venture outside for the milk and haven't missed having the cooktop outside.

We sleep side to side, I'm 5'10" and I think that's about the max you can be for a CS-S to work, couples would have a hard time I think if one of you is taller. Someone bigger than me might weigh in on this for you if its going to be an issue to consider.

The extra storage is fabulous, both in the galley which also provides extra counter space and indoors. We have room to spare for our clothes and necessities, each with our own space. That helps with travel also, the truck carries wood, a cooler, screen room, lounges if we bring them and a propane fire pit if we need it, everything else is in the T@B.

For us, we wouldn't have it any other way. Like lino said, it really comes down to indoor/outdoor kitchen, but also bed length and storage I think. The CS-S is the industry's largest camper with a bathroom and a clam, it was exactly what we were looking for.

jebjam

5 ·

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