Best Of
T@b 400 Bin Mod
Bought a piece of wire shelving to make a back for the bin. Now I can toss loose things like chocks, sewer elbows etc. In there without losing them.
Re: Leveling
I use two Anderson levelers for winter (long term storage) as a means to possibly reduce flat spot by cradling the tires similar to how some collector cars are stored long term.
Re: sewer hose storage
I would prefer not to spend $40 on a 64" sewer hose storage tube. I keep hoping to find a pvc drain pipe to strap to my tongue but my hoses don't fit inside a 4" tube. A 6" tube is humongous! I see that some of you have pvc pipe tubes mounted to the tongue. Your sewer hoses must be much smaller than mine, which have 5+ inch diameter end fittings. Looks like I'll either have to spend money on the $40 tube or buy smaller diameter hoses. ideas?
Re: Questions about towing TAB 320cs-s and two Kayaks with 2017 Honda Ridgeline,
I don't think you need a new tow vehicle just for the kayaks. The T@b sticks up so high, there won't be much extra drag, especially with a lower roofed vehicle. We carried 2 fiberglass sea kayaks to Jasper and back and actually got a little better mileage than usual (might have been the higher altitude?). Getting the kayaks up there with an under 5ft. spouse is a challenge, so a lower car would be better in that regard.
If you're dead set on getting a new TV, pay attention to the torque ratings more than the horsepower. We've towed with both the 6 cyl Subaru Outback and the Xterra, and the extra torque of the Xterra is noticeable, even though horsepower ratings are similar. If the Ridgeline torque is not much more than the Lexus, you won't notice much improvement on hills. Of course the Sequoia will have torque and HP to spare pulling the T@b.
Re: sewer hose storage
@Nan I used metal straps with nut and bolt. The last thing I want to worry about is zip tie failure on the road. I picked it all up at the local hardware store. I also drilled small drainage holes about every three inches along the bottom, which also helps with ventilation. Do this when the tube is empty. Someone back a ways had to replace his sewer hose when he left it in the tube while drilling holes. Good luck!
Re: Rooftop vent screen
Here is the thread by DurangoTab.
Re: Western Canada T@B Group?
@SueBC there is a couple with a Tada in Vancouver, I believe, and he is active on the FB T@da, T@b, T@g Camper Trailer Owners closed group. I think there are others, too, but I can’t remember who right now. Yannis would know though!
Re: Alde System
@DougH, while I have not experienced those temperatures myself (and I don’t intend to), to get the fastest warm up in a deep freeze, you need to use both electric on “2” AND LPG Since the system always defaults to electric, once you reach your inside temperature, the LPG shuts off. It turns back on again when the temp. drops a couple degrees. Also, maintaining temperature is easier than warming all the surrounding materials that make up the TaB. ((See quote below from this thread.). I would also note, the radiant heat requires open vents and good air flow and will never have the immediate sensation of warmth that you get with a space heater.
Did you start with electric on 2?
“TaB electric heating is limited to 1900 watts (1.9 kw) and the propane minimum effect is 3.3 kw,
so heat output and speed with the highest electric will always be slower than heating solely with LPG ( starts at 5.5 kw). Also, be aware of the effects of voltage loss by adding an extension cord - you may end up with less than 110 volts being delivered and that will impact the Alde output on electric. Lastly, when ambient temps are very low, the fastest heat up occurs by using both electric and LPG. The propane kicks on with the electric (controlled by the thermostat) and you get a combined 5.5 kw + 1.9 kw of power. Once you reach your set cabin temperature, the Alde turns off the LPG part of the boiler. At that point, if it is not too cold outside, you may be able to get away with just electric.”
Did you start with electric on 2?
“TaB electric heating is limited to 1900 watts (1.9 kw) and the propane minimum effect is 3.3 kw,
so heat output and speed with the highest electric will always be slower than heating solely with LPG ( starts at 5.5 kw). Also, be aware of the effects of voltage loss by adding an extension cord - you may end up with less than 110 volts being delivered and that will impact the Alde output on electric. Lastly, when ambient temps are very low, the fastest heat up occurs by using both electric and LPG. The propane kicks on with the electric (controlled by the thermostat) and you get a combined 5.5 kw + 1.9 kw of power. Once you reach your set cabin temperature, the Alde turns off the LPG part of the boiler. At that point, if it is not too cold outside, you may be able to get away with just electric.”
Re: Alde system problem from beginning
@MarisaM ; Our T@B Alde smelled wunnerful when we first got it (warm wood scent). A year ago I checked the Alde reservoir and it was above the MAX line, as filled by the factory or dealer... and after refractometer testing, I guessed that maybe that was okay to be so full... it must not expand much. Besides we didn't do any freezing cold weather camping.
Ooops. More recently we've been running it much longer and there's been a skunky / acrid smell, especially when running on propane. Yuck. Have to have a window open to tolerate the stink.
Sure enough, when the Alde runs a while or if you go to a higher altitude, that resevoir level can rise and overflow. And when our coolant is very hot it stinks of skunk and something that catches you at the back of the throat. If you pick up a $20 UV light you can check the tank level faster when cold or when it's been running for a while.
Full Tank in White Light:
Overflow Mess in UV Light:
The dried coolant cleaned up easily, and I siphoned out a couple inches of coolant. So far, so good on the stench. I checked all the other connections and didn't see any other residue anywhere.
That doesn't help with your water smell... it does sound like someone sanitized wrong or put antifreeze where it didn't belong as folks have suggested. You've drained and refilled the fresh water tank already. Have you flushed out the Alde tank by either running out a couple dozen gallons of hot water from the sink or external shower, or by draining and filling the Alde tank a few times yet? That might be enough to take care of the hot water stink. We never drink water from an RV, but do expect the hot water to be clean enough for doing dishes or showering.
On all the RV forums that use Alde systems, I've never read of anyone getting a primary / secondary boundary internal leak where the glycol leaks into the hot water. Not impossible though, and that would be a more serious Alde service center issue.
Ooops. More recently we've been running it much longer and there's been a skunky / acrid smell, especially when running on propane. Yuck. Have to have a window open to tolerate the stink.
Sure enough, when the Alde runs a while or if you go to a higher altitude, that resevoir level can rise and overflow. And when our coolant is very hot it stinks of skunk and something that catches you at the back of the throat. If you pick up a $20 UV light you can check the tank level faster when cold or when it's been running for a while.
Full Tank in White Light:
Overflow Mess in UV Light:
The dried coolant cleaned up easily, and I siphoned out a couple inches of coolant. So far, so good on the stench. I checked all the other connections and didn't see any other residue anywhere.
That doesn't help with your water smell... it does sound like someone sanitized wrong or put antifreeze where it didn't belong as folks have suggested. You've drained and refilled the fresh water tank already. Have you flushed out the Alde tank by either running out a couple dozen gallons of hot water from the sink or external shower, or by draining and filling the Alde tank a few times yet? That might be enough to take care of the hot water stink. We never drink water from an RV, but do expect the hot water to be clean enough for doing dishes or showering.
On all the RV forums that use Alde systems, I've never read of anyone getting a primary / secondary boundary internal leak where the glycol leaks into the hot water. Not impossible though, and that would be a more serious Alde service center issue.
Re: nüCamp revised — Purchasing from the Parts Department effective 1/1/2019
I told them I would not sign any papers unless it was noted about the screen and they ordered one right away. After pushing back a few times, and me threatening to walk out minus the Tab, they changed their tune. Part was ordered, but they weren't happy they had to order it. I was able to confirm with NuCamp that a screen door was in the unit when it left the factory.
The dealer I have to work with is General RV and they are the only dealer in Michigan that sells Tabs. I really dislike them and do not look forward having to deal with them more.