Best Of
Re: Adding a new 12v line from the WFCO; Tab 400 Boondock lite
On my 320, I'm pretty sure all the slots in the 12V distribution panel are occupied. I'd guess (but am not certain) the 400 is the same way.
It looks like this device is 45 watts, so will only draw about 4 amps on 12V. You might be able to tap into one of the lesser used 12V circuits so long as the added draw doesn't overload it.
Not much help, I know. Maybe someone else will chime in, but I don't recall anyone doing this or discussion it here in the past.
Re: Vodka is not the answer
I’ll take Arizona and a good Margarita any day! 
As for winterizing, I prefer to blow the lines out with air, empty the pump and add in the pink RV antifreeze to my sink, shower and toilet areas. If I were staying in Michigan through the winter I would also empty out the gallon of RV antifreeze added (2 gallons total) to the gray and black tanks, place a screen over the outlet where both dump from (to keep critters out) and leave both valves open. This allows both tanks to dry out. I’ve done this before per instructions from a dealer and never had any issues.
As for winterizing, I prefer to blow the lines out with air, empty the pump and add in the pink RV antifreeze to my sink, shower and toilet areas. If I were staying in Michigan through the winter I would also empty out the gallon of RV antifreeze added (2 gallons total) to the gray and black tanks, place a screen over the outlet where both dump from (to keep critters out) and leave both valves open. This allows both tanks to dry out. I’ve done this before per instructions from a dealer and never had any issues.
Re: STRANDED
Interesting summary @WilliamA! Thank you. So, does "resetting the computer" by disconnecting the battery, cause it to relearn from the beginning, or does it retain its 'blocks'? Would that help it to learn the 'trailer towing' block more quickly?
Also, with my manual transmission, does higher RPM (for example climbing a hill while towing) cause more (or less) overall stress or wear, as long as the temperature gauge is normal?
My theory has always been that 4500RPM is fine, for example if the red line is at 5200.
Also, with my manual transmission, does higher RPM (for example climbing a hill while towing) cause more (or less) overall stress or wear, as long as the temperature gauge is normal?
My theory has always been that 4500RPM is fine, for example if the red line is at 5200.
Re: STRANDED
There are really only 3 basic causes for a plugged catalytic converter:
1. Too much fuel (bad plugs, etc)
2. Burning oil.
3. Coolant leaking into the combustion cycle (head gasket, etc)
let's not forget that it may be a combination of causes but the result will be melting of the ceramic coating within the converter that plugs the metal screen. The commin thread is excessive heat in the converter. Very often, the culprit condition may exist but not be bad enough to notice until another factor (like towing a trailer) exacerbates the condition, making it worse. Modern control systems have gotten much better at mitigating and managing engine management to the point where such problems are not evident until an event (towing) radically alters the computers block learn integrator (yes, that's a real thing. It's motor-eze for how your cars' computer "learns".) The computer stores events (also called "start cycles") in blocks, then compares them to develop and average how much fuel, air timing advance etc the engine needs during a typical "start cycle". The computer meters fuel etc to make the engine as efficient as possible within the given parameters. Then, you pull a trailer...or dramatically alter the use of the vehicle in a way that falls outside of the specifications of the block learn, which is basically a rolling, constantly updating 2 dimensional array of numbers. When that happens, the computer is unable to compensate enough and has to make the best choice available to protect the engine. The computer default is to add fuel and retard timing to reduce overheating in the engine, which conversely causes overheating in the exhaust as there is almost certainly a rich condition caused by too much unburned fuel. When this happens, it won't necessarily set a trouble code as the engine itself is still within the operating parameters of heat etc. Given enough time, excessive fuel delivery will set a code but the computer is programmed to "be patient" and wait a number of data cycles before the bells and lights go off. That's why an event such as this may happen without setting off a warning light.
As an aside, it's within the realm of possibility for something as unconnected as transmission temperature to cause plugging of the converter. The transmission sheds its heat through the radiator. If that causes overheating in the coolant and thus, the engine, the computer will try to cool the engine by richening the fuel mixture and...voila...a plugged converter! I am not saying that's the cause. I'm saying that it's a "system" so apparently unrelated problems can appear as gremlins throughout that system. When the mechanic tries to diagnose the problem, the actual fault has disappeared altogether leaving only some failed component upstream or downstream as its "victim". It takes very little time for an overextended system to be outside parameters long enough to plug the converter. After the fact, it may be difficult or impossible to reproduce the fault. Then, the mechanic must fall back on his or her own "block learn" (experience) to come up with a diagnosis. It should also be noted that often, when the owner looks back, he or she remembers something ignored that "wasn't quite right."
The sad mantra of we mechanics has always been not a matter of "if", but "when" we make the wrong call.
WilliamA
1. Too much fuel (bad plugs, etc)
2. Burning oil.
3. Coolant leaking into the combustion cycle (head gasket, etc)
let's not forget that it may be a combination of causes but the result will be melting of the ceramic coating within the converter that plugs the metal screen. The commin thread is excessive heat in the converter. Very often, the culprit condition may exist but not be bad enough to notice until another factor (like towing a trailer) exacerbates the condition, making it worse. Modern control systems have gotten much better at mitigating and managing engine management to the point where such problems are not evident until an event (towing) radically alters the computers block learn integrator (yes, that's a real thing. It's motor-eze for how your cars' computer "learns".) The computer stores events (also called "start cycles") in blocks, then compares them to develop and average how much fuel, air timing advance etc the engine needs during a typical "start cycle". The computer meters fuel etc to make the engine as efficient as possible within the given parameters. Then, you pull a trailer...or dramatically alter the use of the vehicle in a way that falls outside of the specifications of the block learn, which is basically a rolling, constantly updating 2 dimensional array of numbers. When that happens, the computer is unable to compensate enough and has to make the best choice available to protect the engine. The computer default is to add fuel and retard timing to reduce overheating in the engine, which conversely causes overheating in the exhaust as there is almost certainly a rich condition caused by too much unburned fuel. When this happens, it won't necessarily set a trouble code as the engine itself is still within the operating parameters of heat etc. Given enough time, excessive fuel delivery will set a code but the computer is programmed to "be patient" and wait a number of data cycles before the bells and lights go off. That's why an event such as this may happen without setting off a warning light.
As an aside, it's within the realm of possibility for something as unconnected as transmission temperature to cause plugging of the converter. The transmission sheds its heat through the radiator. If that causes overheating in the coolant and thus, the engine, the computer will try to cool the engine by richening the fuel mixture and...voila...a plugged converter! I am not saying that's the cause. I'm saying that it's a "system" so apparently unrelated problems can appear as gremlins throughout that system. When the mechanic tries to diagnose the problem, the actual fault has disappeared altogether leaving only some failed component upstream or downstream as its "victim". It takes very little time for an overextended system to be outside parameters long enough to plug the converter. After the fact, it may be difficult or impossible to reproduce the fault. Then, the mechanic must fall back on his or her own "block learn" (experience) to come up with a diagnosis. It should also be noted that often, when the owner looks back, he or she remembers something ignored that "wasn't quite right."
The sad mantra of we mechanics has always been not a matter of "if", but "when" we make the wrong call.
WilliamA
Re: Alde lifetimes fluid alternative
@Dalehelman, I have read in the Evan's coolant usage recommendations that It says the coolant should be used in closed systems. The coolant will readily absorb moisture from the air and then become contaminated, and the water then contained within acts exactly as does the water in the alde glycol, becoming acidic. From what I have read and come to understand about the alde is that the system operates with an air cushion and has a bleeder valve, therefore, it is not a closed system. The lifetime coolant wouldn't be recommended for the alde then, would it? Am I misreading this, or misunderstanding?
-Denise
-Denise
Re: 2017 + Nissan Pathfinder
Doesn't it have the CVT transmission? Those worry me with towing.
Google nissan cvt transmission problems.
Re: RAV4 Adventure as TV
Just for fun I did a more detailed look at possible real-world towing conditions and the use of 3,500# rated tow vehicles . . . using your RAV4 Adventure as the example . . .
Real World Factors:
Factory stated maximum tow rating is based on only a driver in the TV. As people/cargo are added to the TV it's tow capacity drops = = pound for pound = = Add 110# of cargo to TV, reduce tow rating by 100# Increased altitude also reduces gasoline engine power. Vehicle manufactures say reduce the tow rating 3-4% every 1,000 feet of elevation.End result is you cannot really carry any gear with a 3,500# rated TV and expect reasonable performance . . . acceleration, power reserve, or MPG . . . Having the TV only 50% loaded (by weight) and the T@B 50% loaded puts the ready for camping T@B at the maximum TV towing capacity.
Re: STRANDED
not sure if this helps, if you have your TV owners manual, look at the emission warranty. I think they are extended past the normal vehicle warranty. Something like 75000 miles or so. Just an idea to help with the cost. Safe travels!
Re: Boondocking Coffee in the 400
In the generic coffee world, a cup is 6 oz. Who decided to change the Imperial System? Keurig does state their pods are used for a real cup = 8 oz.
Re: Oops, this was not forecasted
@BrianZ, ya gotta be flexible. Honestly, you have to be able to change directions at a moment’s notice, you do need to know about your camper, and you need to be able to laugh about the situations that one up and at yourself.
I’m now in a different campground, closer to my Tuesday appointments, but not in the woods. It’s actually about 5 miles from my former house. I’ll start heading south Wednesday, and hope I can get back here for Thanksgiving with my siblings. If not......it’s not for a lack of trying.
It’ll work out the way it is supposed to, but maybe not as planned.
I’m now in a different campground, closer to my Tuesday appointments, but not in the woods. It’s actually about 5 miles from my former house. I’ll start heading south Wednesday, and hope I can get back here for Thanksgiving with my siblings. If not......it’s not for a lack of trying.
It’ll work out the way it is supposed to, but maybe not as planned.
