The wire gauge from the 7-pin connector will limit the amount of current the trailer can draw from your TV. 10 ga. wire can draw up to 30A. You'd blow a fuse or melt the wire before you could draw more than that from the alternator. And with the length of the wire run, the voltage drop that length creates will likely mean the power from the TV won't meet the threshold for charge controllers to kick in. The DC/DC charger installation has to address the wire capacity issue and it also bumps up the voltage.
Your TV likely already has an isolator relay on the tow harness, but you could add one if you don't. If you can measure 12V with a multimeter between the +12V and ground pins on the TV's connector with ignition off, then you don't have an isolator.
I suggest you also look at adding solar capacity (portable so you can place it for best exposure) in addition to your exploration of TV charging.
Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase. They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it. It's a Victron 75/10. We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.
The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side. The original 75/15 is under the bed.
I need some schooling here. Although this recall doesn't affect me, I'm curious...
Most of the battery disconnect switches I've seen installed in T@Bs look pretty substantial. These are usually rated to handle voltage and current (amps) far in excess of anything a normal T@B would use. Anybody know what's happening in this case, or why it specifically matters in the case of the lithium upgrade?
@bjn2 My LiFePO4 journey has be a bit haphazard. The Dr. Prepare mostly rides in the back of my Wrangler and is dedicated to a small chest fridge/freezer. At the time I had a pair of AGM batteries in my T@B and put a Victron 75/15 in the tub to assist in charging them. I was happy enough with the Dr. Prepare battery that I purchased two of the non-hub versions to replace the AGM's. If I had it to do over, your 230Ah Li Time would probably win out for the trailer. The price, quality and choices of the newer LiFePO4's is hard to keep up with.
Every one who ever sees this post is going to ask:
How are they attached to the roof? How are they secured while the trailer is in motion? Or, do they have to be?
Can you show us what the "mounting frame" is and how it works? How did you get on to the roof to install it all?
Where/how does the wiring enter the trailer? How/where is the solar controller?
Beautiful install. There have been several other installs of "tiltable" panels done in different ways, and each have been pretty remarkable achievements.
As I've been building a parts list to install a Multiplus 3000 in my 2021 T@B 400, one of the things I wondered about was the disconnect switch nuCamp uses. I had already purchased a 400 Amp disconnect and was planning on replacing the existing one for the exact reason this recall is happening...Glad I did!