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Recently we bought the 2024 Tab 400 Black Can w the 4 Lithium and extra solar. We had a Tab 320. Pretty excited about having tons of battery charge, we primarily boondock. Question is, we never really used the Victron for the 320, always used our Voltmeter. There are no ports for boondocking phone charging in the back by the bed except the outlets which need 30 amp power or the inverter in the 'on' position?..or do we have to use Victron to turn on the inverter for those outlets and ports at bed cubby and under tv?
Also, we are going to put some type of hinge with a stick on the covers of the battery and Alde heat system, in order to access these under bed storage areas. 
Has anyone done this already, and can share pic?

When I converted my 2021 320 to lithium over the Winter I used the same areas. Two 100AH batteries under the passenger bench and a Victron smart charger for charging them in the back next to the Air8. I'm not using the WFCO for charging and I don't have a need for an inverter at this point but can easily add a 2,000 watt for around $350 later.

@DustD  Thanks again!
It is interesting that NuCamp did not provide for your use of Victron MultiPlus "Power Assist".
As described in my February 16 post above, your MultiPlus inverter, if configured with "PowerAssist" enabled, can add up to 16 additional Amps from your batteries to the 30Amp shore power if there is a 120V AC demand above 30Amps. 



As a result, 6/3 wire should be installed between the MultiPlus and the distribution fuse box and a 50Amp breaker should replace the 30Amp breaker. 

If 6/3 wire and a corresponding 50 Amp Main Breaker is not installed as is the case for your unit with a 30Amp main breaker, then you want to ensure that "PowerAssist is turned off in your MultiPlus configuration.

It's too bad that NuCamp is not providing for this great feature.  It alone would sell me on the factory Lithium upgrade.

One last request: 
Can you please provide a photo of your driver side bench including the Distribution panel.  This distribution only panel is larger than the stock WF-8735-AD converter so it would be nice to see how your WF-8930/50 fits in the cabinetry and bed pull frame.
Thanks so much.

Thanks everyone for comments.  Based on these and some further consideration, this is my revised plan:

I plan on running three pairs of wires from the under the driver's side seat to under the passenger side seat

• Pair 1:  Positive WFCO to Interior Switch; The switch will then be connected to the Positive Buss.  I will also connect the Negative Buss to Negative Buss
• Pair 2:  Factory installed solar controller to respective busses
• Pair 3: Spliced to existing solar controller wires from tub, to the newly installed solar controller, which will then be connected to respective busses

The positive wire that currently goes from the interior cutoff switch to terminal 6 in the tongue junction box will be connected to the positive buss. This will ensure that the emergency brakes are connected even if the switch is off.

The cutoff switch will now only isolate the WFCO from the battery.

I will abandon the Positive wire from WFCO to Terminal 6 and  the Positive from the cut off switch to the tub. I will remove or abandon the negative wire from the tongue junction box to the tub(not in the drawing).

I will install a breaker between the positive buss and the battery.  This will allow me to totally isolate the battery if need be.  I plan on using 6 terminal busses, so that if I want to add second battery in the future I have the capacity to do so.

Thanks again form your help and comments.

pthomas745 said:

What I was thinking is if the Jensen has been disconnected and the bare wires are shorting out, that may be the source of your fuses blowing.

The two bare wires in the cabinet were not touching at any time when testing and blowing fuses. The Jensen is connected with a multi-pin connector as seen in the earlier picture and there are no 'disconnected' wires on their own. The two bare ones are not part of the wiring harness.