If you loosen the red clamp lever several turns the entire assembly should be loose. The crank with the outer tube should lift out the top or push out the bottom as you crank the wheel tube up inside. There is a metal piece that protects the tube from being damaged by the clamp screw that possibly has been pushed in too far and is blocking the outer tube from passing through. You should be able to pull the top half out and look in the hole. It's a pretty simple assembly...
I have a 2024 400 , and it also has that white Alde wire going directly to the negative terminal of the battery . My 24 also came the Victron bluetooth shunt to monitor SOG parameters . Its weird to me that this white wire would go directly to the battery negative instead of the Victron shunt side. I just installed 4 100AH Renogy smart heated batteries in parallel (400AH) , to replace the single 100AH Battleborn , and was unsure about that single white wire from the Alde. I hooked up that wire directly to the negative side of the battery bank just to be safe. Not sure exactly what its purpose is for Alde , so I left it where it is from the factory . If its to prevent voltage spike's , it makes sense that it should go direct to the battery negative.
We have tons of info on the Glycol Exchange, and the 6 year long process to figure out how to do it. I caution everyone watching YouTube videos about the Alde in European Aldes: they use ethylene glycol antifreeze, which absolutely cannot be used in the US Aldes. The constant comments about the "5 year antifreeze" all seem to come from the European videos. So...good idea of the process in the video, but that is all!
This link takes you to the comment on the "DIY Glycol Exchange File" which explains the simple tools and the process.
This thread is the "Changing out the Alde Fluid" files. The six year process to figure out the Alde, how it really works, and how to change the glycol yourself. Plenty of other owners have done this, and they brought back photos and their own little modifications to the basic idea. Not all the trailers are as easy as others. There is more than one way to make the swap. The link goes to the last page of the thread, and you can skim backwards to find the pictures of other owner's DIY days. Tons of information and education about the Alde, the glycol, etc.
I don't work for BB and receive no compensation for this post. It is just a PSA. If you are in the market for BB batteries, this is the best sale I've seen. Good through April 26th:
Many parts for the Dutchman built T@Bs are available from UK based "caravan" dealers. The T@B and Tabbert brand have long been popular in Europe and parts are widely available. When T@Bs first came to the US many parts were imported for the builds.
Looking at the original manufacturers website (https://www.tabme.de/en/) it appears they are still using this or a similar style of handle. You might want to contact them.
Hi, You need to support the tongue (it looks like it is on a jack stand) so no weight is on the jockey wheel, Then, loosen the side clamp so the entire assembly is loose. Now you should be able to crank the lower inner shaft up into the outer tube. Continue to crank them all the way together until the wheel fork hits the outer tube. At this point you can place the jockey wheel on the ground, tighten the side clamp and crank the wheel down lifting the trailer or retract the entire assembly for travel. Make sure the wheel fork engages in the slots in the outer tube before retracting to assure it does not unscrew while traveling.(a common accident). Hope this helps... Bob
Be sure to release the brake before towing !!! The long lever with red handle at 45 degrees in the photo needs to be pushed down,
The handle on the hitch has to be lifted a couple inches while engaging and disengaging the 2 inch ball.
My understanding is that lead acid chargers generally can be used without causing damage to LiFePo4 batteries. But as you mention you won’t be able to fully charge the batteries and for optimal charging and care of LiFePo4 batteries they really need that absorption charge. A number of different manufacturers state that lead acid chargers shouldn’t be used and may cause damage. Possibly they are just covering themselves. I think much would depend on the parameters of the Ryobi charger.