Best Of
Re: The Danby Air Conditioner in a Tab320s
A] My fan was installed to pull air in (correct direction).
B] My 1.5 inch Vent tube/cab also was placed to Cut the Roof Framing.
C] I replaced the 1.5 inch vent pipe { 1.77 sq inch max air flow without bug screens } with a
4 inch pipe and Radon Hood/Cap should provides 14 sq inch max air flow.
Re: Attaching metal plate for a backup magnetic camera
I went with the often recommended VHB 5952, although 4950 is also recommended for panel attachment.Marceline
There are different types of 3M VHB tape, so be sure to get the type that's appropriate for your application.
Re: extra negative wire crimped to main on battery?
It may be a ground to the Alde. We had one added to prevent Alde fuses from blowing.
Re: Looking for TV
enzo86 said:we are using a 24 Kia Teluride X-PRO on our 400, 5500lb tow rating, 550lb tongue weight max. Electric Brake controller install was very simple.
I'll second the Telluride. We have a 2022 EX-P with "only" a 5,000# rating, and use it for towing a somewhat lighter 320, but we are barely aware that anything's behind us. I'm sure that will be much the same for towing the 400 with the Telly. We have the Prodigy RF system that is a great alternative to the typical cockpit brake controller.
The Telluride is a great all-around performer; quiet, capable and comfortable. We were a long-time Volvo family, and the Telly is quite close to an XC-90 in most areas. There's a reason the Telluride has been the CR top pick in the mid-size SUV category for several years running. The one drawback, and it's a big one, is the shoddy Kia dealer network. Telluride build quality is very high (it was designed in the US, in CA, is built in GA, and has a high percentage of North American components), so thankfully, visits to the dealer are infrequent.
Re: Alde leaking as it heats.
I’d like to close out this thread by saying that the boiler was indeed ruined by water left in it and freezing temperatures crushing it and cracking the weld between water and glycol. I posted a bunch on those details in another ‘glycol’ thread.
The gifts of having this issue were multiple:
- I learned about this tab forum, how to navigate it and met wonderful, helpful members.
- I learned about this tab forum, how to navigate it and met wonderful, helpful members.
- I learned a ton about my tab trailer and the Alde system in searching for what was wrong
- and the biggest gift was that I had my faith renewed in people.
- and the biggest gift was that I had my faith renewed in people.
The lady who sold me the trailer as-is, and with no knowledge of the boiler issue, was kind and considerate in sharing in the material cost of its repair. She and her son-in-law, and people like them, are my hopes for real healing in a world that seems more unsettled than ever. Their actions make me want to be a better person. If they can make it right for a stranger like me, at a real cost to them in their pocket book, then I’m sure I can find many places in my life to be like them. Passing it forward the best I can. If I slip, they will be a reminder.
Thanks Julie and Shawn.
Re: Connecting Zamp plug to camper
Once I worked out the 'SAE" port and figured out the entire internet was all wrong about the "Reverse Polarity" I wire my controllers properly and have never looked back. "Experienced" motorcycle riders have used these types of cables for years to attach heated vests, gloves, etc to a battery for riding.
The problem is that everyone only looks at a "pigtail", or a cable with one end of the connector cut off. If you look at an entire cable, it can make more sense. But, the connectors you can find at Amazon are just inexpensive cables with no discussion of which end should plug into what. And then the confusion with the black and the red cable. So, the internet decided that "reverse polarity" is the problem when instead......well, people. And, if you are inexperienced, even the phrase "reverse polarity" sounds like something from a Frankenstein movie. It took me a year to figure out.
This is how a "standard", wired from the factory, SAE port is attached to the battery. The meter is showing the "positive" wire to the battery is attached to the "top" section of the port.
IF your solar port is wired this way: what you want is the positive output from the solar controller to be safely "inside the plastic" of the cable. In theory, it is possible to have voltage running from the solar panel to the controller and out to the cable in your hand. If the positive wire is attached to that big metal chunk of the cable, you might get sparks. Having the positive output safely "inside the plastic" protects from that possibility. (Note: always attach the cable from the controller to the battery to the controller first: then plug into the trailer. Always unplug the cable from the connector first before disconnecting the cable at the solar controller. If the plug is still attached to the port on the trailer, and you unscrew bare wires, it will spark! Ask me how I know!)
The cable below is a "full" SAE cable. On the right side, the "positive, red, big metal part" would be connected to the power source. In a perfect world, we would have solar controllers with this type of port on the controller and the trailer. Follow the red cable around to the left side....and the positive "hot" wire is safely "inside the plastic". Look at the port picture above with the meter. That "inside the plastic" would simply plug into the top, or "positive" side of the port. (Again...after you know for sure how your port is wired.)
On my portable solar setup, I simply cut off the right side connector, trimmed about 1/4 inch of insulation from the red/black cables, attached them to the appropriate +/- "Battery" outputs from the controller, and simply plugged it into the port. No adapters, nothing. Just properly wired SAE cable and port. (That cable above is still in use after about 5 years, with some small mods.)
So...a multimeter is your friend, here. I agree with Bergger....the Red cable on your harness there "should" go to the positive side of the battery, but you still need to have a look inside that plastic harness and make sure. If it is, look at the multimeter picture again and see how that black "inside the plastic" plug will go in.
Is this the cable you plan to install? Or the cable you removed from the trailer? What solar controller do you intend to use?
Re: ALDE 3020 Thermal Fuse
Yes, I pulled the picture of the web as my board is still installed. Thanks, it appears the new board does not have the thermal fuse. Truma had me replace the control panel first, did not work. Then they said I had to take it to a dealer. Dealers in my area cannot get me in anytime soon, so I found a dealer that would order for me ,but Truma will not warranty it. I have an appointment for May as a backup if the new board does not fix the problem.MuttonChops said:JeffFM said:
. . . an item that appears to be a resistor under the one green fuse box
. . . have a new main board coming, and Truma already had me change the control panel
Question:
Is the 3020 Control PCB picture you posted your actual units PCB or a web-sourced PCB picture?
Comments:
All web-sourced 3020 Control PCB pictures appear to be the same version as your image.
These boards (PCB version) do not appear to have a Thermal Fuse component installed/included on the PCB.
On your picture and web-sourced images the Item Under the Green Fuse Holder is a diode.
Sounds like Alde/Truma have been helpful on troubleshooting and parts.
Re: Victron Smart Shunt IP65
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartShunt-IP65-EN.pdfRobermcm said:What’s the install on these shunts? Does it replace something else, so wires are all terminated and easy to move over?
Re: Attaching metal plate for a backup magnetic camera
Where on the back of your 400 are you thinking if mounting the camera? I have a rear view camera that I have been mounting on the rear window with a suction cup. The suction cup holds well but I'm not happy with the camera. This camera might be a better solution but I am wondering where it could be mounted. Above the window would probably be the best place but that would put it out of reach for cleaning the solar panel on the camera. Below the window might be too low for a good view of traffic coming up from behind.