Mods/Upgrades while waiting out social distancing . Please share yours.

MadCityJack

After recently filling my fresh water tank for a 4 night camping trip, I thought it might be prudent to minimize unwanted “easy” access to the port.  So, I put a wide zip tie across the front and secured it with the two original square screws.  Of course anyone with a pocket knife and bad intention could have access, but then I would know.  I don’t know that I will use it regularly, but it was a simple mod to share.   I grew up in a major city where shenanigans were aplenty.  I’ve never had an issue with such behavior camping, but the “prevention” sense is always there.  

manyman297

I guess we're not technically still waiting out social distancing but I thought I'd post this mod/upgrade.

As much as I wanted the matching diamond plated Seabiscuit storage boxes on the front platform there were a couple of reasons I opted for a cheaper (but less aesthetically pleasing) option: 

1) Price. Just too rich for my blood right now. Love the look and would prefer to go this route but it's just not in the budget.
2) Durability. On one of our trips we had to drive through a 1/4 mile of road being repaved. It was loose gravel and didn't think much of it. I slowed down to maybe 25mph but the damage was done. A fair amount of dings were made in the 400's diamond plating as well as to the frame. I figured spending $600+ on boxes that will probably get dinged up wasn't worth it.

Another option was using underbody truck tool boxes that I've seen some T@B owners use but I couldn't find the right size. Actually ordered two different sets and both were incorrect measurements compared to what they claimed.

Ultimately I opted for the Dewalt Toughsystem XL boxes. $55/ea at Home Depot or Amazon. The nice thing about these is you could theoretically add more boxes to the top as they allow other Toughsystem boxes to click into each other. I wouldn't add their taller boxes but they have some low-profile boxes that could be added for additional storage.

They're not too big. They do hang off the sides 2 inches or so but I was able to use some aluminum flat bar to act as "feet" for the bottom and then thru-bolted into the boxes. For extra stability I fastened the boxes with u-bolts to the platform (see pic) and protected the platform tubing with some rocker panel guard film.

I realize the aesthetics of these are a deal breaker for some but my guess is these will get abused as they're right in the line of fire of my truck tires. We plan to do more BLM camping so dirt roads will be the norm.

We were cramming a lot of stuff into the exterior rear storage on the T@B but now we can move most of the small items into these boxes and it allows for quick access to them.


I might remove the Dewalt stickers...not sure yet. 


U-bolt provides stability to the upper portion of the boxes.


Aluminum flat bar to secure the box (note there are two additional stacked bars to fill the gap under the box...all of them are bolted through). Should've snapped a pic.


Decent amount of room and each box comes with a removable shallow tray that "floats" above the main storage. I was able to fit my 30amp cable and an additional extension cable in this bag and still have a ton of room left.

Sharon_is_SAM

@manyman297 - the Dewalt boxes make for great storage and easy access.  You will inevitably get more nicks and dings to the front of the TaB.  Enjoy the durability and low maintenance of your camper!

pthomas745

@manyman297 Those boxes look as nice as any of the aluminums!  Before the aluminum style became the hot thing, there were many serviceable boxes on the tongue like your Dewalts.

manyman297

Thanks @Sharon_is_SAM and @pthomas745.

Yeah, I guess it just depends on your aesthetic. They actually look less bad once I had them installed. I had some major doubts when I first received them. 

They're IP56 I believe...so essentially water and dust proof. I think time will tell if the UV rays will degrade the plastic. Worst case I buy another set at some point.

yshelburne

CrabTab said:

Nice work @DenisP !

We have made a few 'micro mods'. One is pictured below. When we were younger DW always liked a 'Holy Jesus' bar on the A-Pillar of my truck to hang on whilst in 4WD mode. Now we have the Boomer version- to keep from having to cry it out when trying to get up from the bed or toilet.



Sometime later I will get pics of other micro mods we've recently completed.

Love this! How did you mount the grab bar? Is there a particular spot to mount it so nothing critical behind that wall is compromised?

pthomas745

@yshelburne You don't say what trailer you have, so your install may be different.  There are several threads that discuss the areas in the vicinity of the shower that will support a handle, both inside and outside of that wall.

https://www.google.com/search?q=grab+bar+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&source=lmns&bih=1088&biw=1920&client=firefox-b-1-d&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwid0tKjt_zzAhVIAjQIHT3UDX4Q_AUoAHoECAEQAA

AndreO

Hi Folks,

A few more Covid/Omicron updates to my 2018 Tab400.

I decided to updated to Lithium so I got 2 Battle Born 100AH LifePo4 heated batteries. Now that said, they weigh in at a total of 62 lbs whereas my previous single AGM weighed in a 140 lbs... a whooping 78 lbs less!

So I decided that I would move the Batts toward the back to help balance out the reduced weight and gain some space as well.  There's not a lot of choice as to where they would fit. However Lithium can be installed in any orientation and I was able to put the in with the addition of a platform at the very back sloped part under the bed. Not a very useful space anyway as everything slips down when it's used.

This is what the original Batt Panel looked like on the opposite corner.

It turns out the Batts will fit in on their side and still not stick out past the access opening. I also could put the Batt controls under the batteries (just barely)

Below is the new panel under the Batts right by the access panel.  That panel between the cutoff and fuse is for the RedArc SBI12-LLD low voltage disconnect (prevents over drain of the batt to prevent damage) and also the yet to be installed Battery to Battery charger status indicator also from RedArc. I made the panel using Visio and printed it on some peel and stick paper with some clear laminate on top of that.

I decided to put some plexiglass in to prevent the controls from being accidentally hit anything. The aluminum strips at the bottom keep the plastic in place and act as a tray for any dirt that gets in allowing me to vacuum it out from time to time.

Below is the back side of the right panel. Don't be fooled by this picture there is not a lot of space back there!

Here is the 2 gauge wire needed to prevent voltage drop running to the Power Center under the floor. FYI NuCamp did not use the frame as the negative DC ground.

While I was there, I also put in another easily removable 2x4 to support under the head of the bed as I found it was flexing enough to rub up against the top of the Alde. The insulation I added to reduce the heat from the Alde coming up from under the bed. Surprisingly it keeps the bed so much cooler.

The battery Platform Completed. (Sorry no Batts, they are in storage for the winter.)

I should note, I also gained a significant amount of more useful and easily accessible space with this layout.

That green light is from the LLD indicating that voltage is at an acceptable level. In this case because it's getting voltage from the AC side of things.  

I picked the top of the panel by the door to add the battery's internal heater over-ride switch as the Victron  displays the Battery temps. When on, the heater will allow charging below 32F (zero C).

While in there I cleaned up the negative bus bar by using "Ferrules" which provide both a better and cleaner electrical connection.  The brown string is what I use to fish new wires in from the panel by the foot of the bed. It has a loop in the middle that I attach the wire to and pull it back and forward as needed. I have it tied at both ends and never completely pull it out.

In addition, you need to replace the converter (Battery charger) with one having a Lithium profile. I put in a Progressive Dynamics PD4655LIV. very simple swap out but I did have to increase the size of the battery fuse and cables between the Battery and Power Center.

BTW make sure you read the back of the Power Center panel to see what torque is required for each of the different connections in the Power Center. (Well everywhere actually!)

Below are the before and after of the Power Center.

To accommodate the much larger 2 gauge wire I added some single terminals behind the Power Center. With that there was no need to bring the Negative into the panel anymore and I could cut the positive (red wire) down to only one feed into the panel.

Yup cleaned up the the Neg bus bar while back there too.

It turns out that most RV electrical issues seem to show up first on the negative side of the circuit. I'm not sure why but apparently poor connections, like the ones below, or combined appliances using a combined undersized negative return will cause higher resistance leading to melting or fire.   

After the Lithium Upgrade I added a hardwired Hughes AC PMS inside under the bed.

(Point of interest:  I read some people mention a humming coming from the PMS keeping them up at night. So far I've only heard it when it is cold, as soon as it warms up the humming has stopped. At least for me.)

Lastly I added a SoftStartRV soft starter to the CoolCat to allow me to run it using only a 2200 watt generator.

Happy Covid updates folks!

Dutch061

Very Nice! The only thing I can say is that after I put in 2 x BB's I wanted more! So, I have 4 BB in the middle under the bed. What I have found so far is that with the Alde, there is no danger of the temperature dropping to an unsafe level and even if by chance it were to happen, the BB's have an excellent BMS that shuts off the charging anyway. And I took the easy way out on the Converter, I put it under the bed near the battery junction block.



Happy New Year!

Brad

Denny16

Nice job Andre, tight, but it all fits in.  Nice use of the rear space, and the batteries should balance the Alde weight on the other side.  I see you eliminated the AIMS Inverter, or did your TaB400:not come with one?

Happy New Uear.
 Cheers 

CrabTab

yshelburne said:

Love this! How did you mount the grab bar? Is there a particular spot to mount it so nothing critical behind that wall is compromised?

Sorry I missed this back when you posted it @yshelburne The handle came from Lowes. WE thought it a pretty good match to the hardware in our T@B. It screws directly in the wall stud on our 2019 model 320. You can see the screws if you zoom in and look closely.  We happened to be in Sugarcreek when I came up with the idea, so checked with the folks at the factory to verify this was a sound location to mount a grab handle.

Hope this helps...

AndreO

Nope didn't come with one and to tell the truth I can't say I want one. I have no microwave or hair so I'm good on just DC. Just wish the 2way didn't chew up so much Batt. Hoping the lithium and bcdc keep me covered.

I think NuCamp should look into some way of providing filtered air flow thrugh the cabin when on the move. That would greatly reduce the temps inside and the need for the fridge to run as often. I'm looking for ways I might be able to add some. Got the back end figured out but not so easy for the front intake with some sort of filtering.

Blueespy

AndreO said:

Hi Folks,

A few more Covid/Omicron updates to my 2018 Tab400.

I decided to updated to Lithium so I got 2 Battle Born 100AH LifePo4 heated batteries. Now that said, they weigh in at a total of 62 lbs whereas my previous single AGM weighed in a 140 lbs... a whooping 78 lbs less!

So I decided that I would move the Batts toward the back to help balance out the reduced weight and gain some space as well.  There's not a lot of choice as to where they would fit. However Lithium can be installed in any orientation and I was able to put the in with the addition of a platform at the very back sloped part under the bed. Not a very useful space anyway as everything slips down when it's used.

This is what the original Batt Panel looked like on the opposite corner.

It turns out the Batts will fit in on their side and still not stick out past the access opening. I also could put the Batt controls under the batteries (just barely)

Below is the new panel under the Batts right by the access panel.  That panel between the cutoff and fuse is for the RedArc SBI12-LLD low voltage disconnect (prevents over drain of the batt to prevent damage) and also the yet to be installed Battery to Battery charger status indicator also from RedArc. I made the panel using Visio and printed it on some peel and stick paper with some clear laminate on top of that.

I decided to put some plexiglass in to prevent the controls from being accidentally hit anything. The aluminum strips at the bottom keep the plastic in place and act as a tray for any dirt that gets in allowing me to vacuum it out from time to time.

Below is the back side of the right panel. Don't be fooled by this picture there is not a lot of space back there!

Here is the 2 gauge wire needed to prevent voltage drop running to the Power Center under the floor. FYI NuCamp did not use the frame as the negative DC ground.

While I was there, I also put in another easily removable 2x4 to support under the head of the bed as I found it was flexing enough to rub up against the top of the Alde. The insulation I added to reduce the heat from the Alde coming up from under the bed. Surprisingly it keeps the bed so much cooler.

The battery Platform Completed. (Sorry no Batts, they are in storage for the winter.)

I should note, I also gained a significant amount of more useful and easily accessible space with this layout.

That green light is from the LLD indicating that voltage is at an acceptable level. In this case because it's getting voltage from the AC side of things.  

I picked the top of the panel by the door to add the battery's internal heater over-ride switch as the Victron  displays the Battery temps. When on, the heater will allow charging below 32F (zero C).

While in there I cleaned up the negative bus bar by using "Ferrules" which provide both a better and cleaner electrical connection.  The brown string is what I use to fish new wires in from the panel by the foot of the bed. It has a loop in the middle that I attach the wire to and pull it back and forward as needed. I have it tied at both ends and never completely pull it out.

In addition, you need to replace the converter (Battery charger) with one having a Lithium profile. I put in a Progressive Dynamics PD4655LIV. very simple swap out but I did have to increase the size of the battery fuse and cables between the Battery and Power Center.

BTW make sure you read the back of the Power Center panel to see what torque is required for each of the different connections in the Power Center. (Well everywhere actually!)

Below are the before and after of the Power Center.

To accommodate the much larger 2 gauge wire I added some single terminals behind the Power Center. With that there was no need to bring the Negative into the panel anymore and I could cut the positive (red wire) down to only one feed into the panel.

Yup cleaned up the the Neg bus bar while back there too.

It turns out that most RV electrical issues seem to show up first on the negative side of the circuit. I'm not sure why but apparently poor connections, like the ones below, or combined appliances using a combined undersized negative return will cause higher resistance leading to melting or fire.   

After the Lithium Upgrade I added a hardwired Hughes AC PMS inside under the bed.

(Point of interest:  I read some people mention a humming coming from the PMS keeping them up at night. So far I've only heard it when it is cold, as soon as it warms up the humming has stopped. At least for me.)

Lastly I added a SoftStartRV soft starter to the CoolCat to allow me to run it using only a 2200 watt generator.

Happy Covid updates folks!

Andre

Nicely done.  We have a 2019 t@b 400 that use to have two ACM that I swapped for two lithium from Battle Born.  Excellent company by the way.  I was able to use my existing controller - a Victron controller and Ron at Battle Born provided the instructions to make the necessary adjustments.  Our batteries were already under the bed, so it was simply swap and wow saves quite a bit of weight.  I did as well install a Soft Start in prep for getting a 2200I Honda/propane generator.  One question for you; our unit came with a three way Norco fridge and until we changed TVs, we had no issue keeping the fridge running on battery.  The new TV 7-pin would not charge the batteries, so we upgraded to the lithium.  Also had the fridge checked and the control board etc. are all good.  We also recently installed a DC to DC convertor so now the TV should keep the lithium batteries charged.  Now, the only thing the repair guy did do was run another wire from the fridge to the seven pin as he said one was missing - made me suspicious but to my question.  Does your unit have the three-way Norco and if so, are you having any issues with the unit running on batteries?

AndreO

Thanks @dutch061,

It looks like you have a newer version 400 with the vented battery box. I could still add more right infront of the poop tube but want to see how I do with 2 and bcdc first.

Denny16

@Blueespy, Andre has an original 2018 (built before Feb 2018) TaB400, which did not have the larger three-way fridge option, only the small AC/DC fridge.  The fridge DV circuit is wired to the WaCo power center.  Also the early 2018 TaB 400s had a single AGM then a dual 6-volt AGM both located in the side storage compartment next to the forward bunk divider panel, under the Battery Switch. 

Cheers 

Blueespy

Denny16 said:

@Blueespy, Andre has an original 2018 (built before Feb 2018) TaB400, which did not have the larger three-way fridge option, only the small AC/DC fridge.  The fridge DV circuit is wired to the WaCo power center.  Also the early 2018 TaB 400s had a single AGM then a dual 6-volt AGM both located in the side storage compartment next to the forward bunk divider panel, under the Battery Switch. 

Cheers 

Denny;

Thank you. 

AndreO

Hi @blueespy,

I have the 2 way fridge. It sucks power when hot as it only uses the air from inside the trailer to cool. On a hot day on the road I've seen the temps go up to 112 in the trailer. So the Fridge runs up to 80% of the time. Actual numbers because I've added a counter to my fridge.

I have looked and see that NuCamp put in a 16 gauge wire approximately 22 feet round trip. Now the fridge can draw up to 6.5 amps but once started runs at 4 amps typically. With the small gauge wire they had from the Batt to the power center and again even smaller back out to the fridge I calculated a 7% drop in voltage. One of the things I was concidering now that I greatly increased cable to the Batts is to do the same to the fridge. I'm thinking 10 maybe even 8 Guage because that constent high amp frequent startup can suck power.

My manual say distance from batt of 20 feet s/b 12 gauge. For me Batt to control center back to fridge is double that. They also say voltage drop will affect performance.

Dutch061

@AndreO,

I also have the DC Refrigerator and have been working on a solution to move the hot air from around the refrigerator and the cabinet it is installed in. Last year, I tried a small fan that I connected to operate when the refrigerator cycles on but seen minimal (if any) improvement.

So, I am currently installing a 120 MM fan that will move 125 CFM that will instead be operated by a temperature-controlled switch rather than only when the refrigerator operates. I had previously installed a baffle on the bottom to seal the pathway to force the air to be drawn from the refrigerator. With the larger fan I have added an additional baffle to be more deliberate where I am getting the air from. 

I have vent covers on both the bathroom and living area ceiling fans with the upgrade to the living area so that it can be controlled by temperature. This helps with the interior temperature of the camper, but the refrigerator still suffers, I believe due to the latent heat around it. 

I will not know the outcome of the larger fan on the refrigerator performance until next summer. But it only seems logical that if the temperature in the cabinet area can be kept lower that the refrigerator will cycle less. Even if the air I am drawing underneath the refrigerator is still quite warm due to the interior temperature of the camper, the temperature should still be lower.

Brad

AndreO

Hi @Dutch061,

Yup, if you look a few pages back you can see I also added internal and external fans to the fridge. Like you it made little to no difference. The Norcold NR70-N was originally made for boating which is why has the internal cooling only. The operating range of the fridge really isn't that high. 90F upper limit. I don't think These are the best fridges for the job. After all boats are half or more submerged in water which is much better at dispersing heat, helping to keep the room cooler.

For the most part it, draws the cool air from the bottom front right side of the fridge and blows the hot air out the left side. If you force too much air up the back it can create a vacuum of sorts behind the Fridges back fan preventing it from pushing it over the cooling fins and out the front. To that end I've just cut down the height of the drawer below the fridge down to the same height as the shelf the fridge sits on as it also blocks airflow.  I won't know the results of that until summer I guess.

Proper problem resolution techniques say you should only make one change at a time to see if it helped or hurt the issue. But that could take years.

Are you leaving the vents open while you drive?

Actually I don't think that would matter much anyway, the vents are roughly parallel. To get air flow you need to have a vent near the front to take in air and a vent near the back to exhaust that air or it just builds up stagnant pressure in the trailer not really cooling. Also people who do have front and back windows that they can open getting that flow have noticed a major issue with dust.

I am growing more and more convinced that controlling the the room temperature is the best all around solution. Also the hardest thing to achieve when on the move given the design of the trailer. To further my hypothesis, when fall camping where temps in the trailer never go above 70 or so the fridge has no problem keeping things cool. My fridge run counter never goes above 25% run time vs. 80 to 85% in the summer while on the road.

Which is why I'm currently just looking to allow it to run at that 80% without draining my house Batts via DC-DC.

But it's nice to have others to bounce ideas off of and learn from what did or did not work for them.

Andre

Sharon_is_SAM

For what it’s worth, we have concluded that in high ambient temperatures, there is no way to keep the cabin any cooler.  The roof has limited insulation and ventilating with hot air does not help.  We had our CSS galley mounted ARB overheat and shut down this past August.  We have decided to use a portable cooler during travel through areas of extreme heat.  We toyed with the idea of adding additional areas of ventilation to the rear galley and realized it was probably not worth the effort as we just try to avoid traveling when it is very hot.

Denny16

I agree with Sharon, in avoiding extreme heat camping.  I have noticed the fridge needed turning up a bit when inside temps hit 80-85F, but had no side maintaining 40-45F inside fridge.  I do have a small vent cutout between right back side of fridge where the AC cable is fed in from the rear storage compartment.  

I have thought about putting a vent through to the outside, but passed.  Even with its few issue, it does a better job cooling in higher temps than a three way fridge does.
cheers

AndreO

Hi @Sharon_is_SAM SAM, @Denny16 ,

Yup I agree not much you can do about really high temps. But when you put a metal box out in the sun its going to absorb and contain that heat. 80F degrees air temp is magnified to 114F or more in the trailer closed in the sun. That's why you never leave your pet or kid in a car.  If I don't go camping when temps go up to 80F I'd never get out camping during the summer at all.

BTW to maintain food safety standards food must be stored between 35 and 40F. I do let it go a little higher than that but only for a short while, 6 to 8 hrs on the road would be too long. It's actually a health department standard for restaurants both here in Canada and the US.

My only goal is to find a way to keep the fridge temps as close to the "zone" as possible while driving to keep my food from spoiling without killing my battery. 

That said taking the trailer out of the sun will greatly reduce the heat collected from the direct sun. Open the windows to let the air flow through and it will drop even closer to the ambient air temperature of 80F.

Seeing as I can't get it out of the sun while on the move the only other options are to make the fridge more efficient, better insulated or find a way to get it an environment it was design to function in.

Sharon, your point is extremely poignant... I should roll all the windows up on my truck on an 80F sunny day. Then record the temperature and go for a drive (NO AIR or FAN) then open 2 windows, back and front, and see if the air flow can reduce the temp enough to make any significant difference to the environment the fridge has to operate in.  If YES then look into putting in vents (If possible at all) If NO then accept it and look for ways to work around it. Maybe just use an ice cooler in the truck?

Thank you for your insight.

Two heads or in this case three really are better than one!

I'll let you know the results of that test when weather permits.  Don't think today's 36F is going to provide any useful results.

  Andre

Sharon_is_SAM

@AndreO - We wanted to know the true value of covering the windows in Reflectix.  We covered all the windows and traveled to Assateague in mid July with temps in the high 80s.  We monitored the cabin and galley temps.  No difference relative to ambient temperature.  Our TaBs absorb and retain heat until ambient temps drop.  They don’t function as a heat sink as there is no transfer of the heat.  The roof insulation (foam core covered by Reflectix) is simply, not great.  

Keeping frozen bottles of water is helpful with the TaB absorption refrigerators.  I don’t think that anyone has mentioned trying this with the new compressor frig.  Please keep us posted with your results.  

manyman297

I also have been looking into ways to get our Isotherm fridge to not constantly run in hot weather. Using a FLIR thermal camera it’s obvious that the backside of the fridge retains a ton of heat and even the venting out the top of the counter does little to dissipate the heat. Putting temp-controlled fans in that space would probably help. They’d be running constantly in the summer though. 

Has anybody tried an internal fan within the fridge to circulate the cool air? I know there are warm pockets within the fridge (I use a Bluetooth temp sensor) and temps can vary as much as 5 degrees depending on the location within the fridge. I wonder if this contributes to the fridge running more than needed?

Dutch061

@AndreO, one of the things that I did to overcome the potential of negative air pressure and the lack of air flowing over the condenser was to reverse the air flow direction by turning the fan over. So, now it draws air over the condenser first.

To me this makes more sense than the other way around. Rather than adding additional heat from the compressor etc. before pushing the air through the condenser I am taking the "potentially cooler air" from inside the camper. Even if the inside air temperature is 80 degrees, it is going to be cooler air than heating it by cooling the compressor first, or again it seems logical that it would be. 

I am also going to pull the refrigerator back out and reduce other air flow openings to a minimum to force the air to be drawn from the front of the refrigerator as much as possible. 

Regardless, it is a heat issue or lack of being able to get rid of the heat that increases the duty cycle and raises the internal temperature of the refrigerator. The trick is to determine what is the best way to help dissipate that heat without filling the TAB with water, LOL.

Time will tell if the changes I am currently doing will help or not. Like you, my main concern is while traveling because if it is 80 plus outside, I am either going to have electricity or use a generator for air conditioning. I made 1 3-day trip last year in the heat (90's) without A/C and needless to say it is not on my list to spend 3 days in a sauna again. It was miserable to say the least. 

First year of being retired, still in the learning curve of learning people movements, since I no longer have to work during the week. What I have learned so far is that most places (NC anyway) are open all week long with few people and fill up on the weekends. So, it is easy to avoid the masses at least most of the time. 

And as @Denny16 said, the 2-way refrigerator is far superior to the 3-way absorption refrigerator any day of the week. That is one item I do not miss and if (BIG IF) I were to ever think of another RV the refrigerator is a make-or-break item. I will not accept another absorption refrigerator. 

Brad

Travelin3D

Installed this IKEA pegboard in between trips in 2021. Nice thing is that there are various accessories made to fit the board, including a nice thin bungee that holds things in place while underway. The board is screwed into two cleats: top cleat is screwed into the cabinet bottom and the bottom cleat held with double-sided tape. That way there are no holes in the countertop or sidewall.

VictoriaP

@Travelin3D Oh, this is brilliant! What did you use to cut the pegboard?

AnOldUR

@Travelin3D your is so much neater than ours.
We can't decide if we want to do the sink side also.
Have you done yours?

AndreO

After doing a little web research I found a number of published research papers on refrigeration efficiencies. Lots of stuff I couldn't even come close to understanding however they all had statements such as this quote.

"From this result, it can be concluded that the daily energy consumption of the Inverter-driven refrigerator is greatly influenced by the room temperature change as expected."

( https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352484721000123 )

Others specifically mention leaving sufficient space around the fridge to allow for generous all around airflow, putting a fan in it and Oh yeah, keeping it away from the stove. Oops!

All in all I'd say we are on the right track. It's not the fridge it's the environment. Now if we can only narrow down the best way to modify that.

Andre

AnOldUR

VictoriaP said:

@Travelin3D Oh, this is brilliant! What did you use to cut the pegboard?

Can't speak for @Travelin3D, but I made a cardboard template to get the size right and then a Ryobi jigsaw to cut it.