Mods/Upgrades while waiting out social distancing . Please share yours.

bergger

Nice job AndreO with the new battery set up.  Being in Ontario and a cold climate are you concerned at all about the batteries getting too cold to charge?  I wonder if you should not insulate them to actually allow some Alde heat to reach them.  Lithium batteries and below freezing temps don't tend to like each other.  

Marceline

Sharon_is_SAM said:

@AndreO - We wanted to know the true value of covering the windows in Reflectix.  We covered all the windows and traveled to Assateague in mid July with temps in the high 80s.  We monitored the cabin and galley temps.  No difference relative to ambient temperature.  Our TaBs absorb and retain heat until ambient temps drop.  They don’t function as a heat sink as there is no transfer of the heat.  The roof insulation (foam core covered by Reflectix) is simply, not great.  

Keeping frozen bottles of water is helpful with the TaB absorption refrigerators.  I don’t think that anyone has mentioned trying this with the new compressor frig.  Please keep us posted with your results.  

I cover my windows with Reflectix in storage and while on the road. Of course this will not make the interior any cooler than the ambient temperature (except maybe in the morning). But it does a reasonably good job of preventing the interior temp from climbing sky high (100+). I also leave the ceiling vent slightly open so the hottest air has someplace to go. 

I’ve also covered the front of the fridge in my clamshell in reflectix and I use my Clam pop up, wing walls, and/or a tarp to keep the galley in shade. Last summer I managed to keep the fridge at 40deg for 3 days (no hookups) when the midday temp was 95deg. 

Marceline

AndreO said:

Hi @Sharon_is_SAM SAM, @Denny16 ,

BTW to maintain food safety standards food must be stored between 35 and 40F. I do let it go a little higher than that but only for a short while, 6 to 8 hrs on the road would be too long. It's actually a health department standard for restaurants both here in Canada and the US.

My only goal is to find a way to keep the fridge temps as close to the "zone" as possible while driving to keep my food from spoiling without killing my battery. 

  Andre

This may not be a popular idea, but I occasionally camp with a friend who’s vegan, and I’ve noticed that it’s a lot easier to manage refrigeration when you remove meat & dairy from the equation. Maybe something to consider when the ambient temp is going to be above 85. 

DenisP

@AndreO very nice battery upgrade.  I have not made the leap to Lithium as for the time being the two original AGMs are still going strong.  In addition to factory solar, I installed a Victron DC/DC charger with 6 ga wiring from the TV battery.  I have a 2 way refrigerator and while traveling I typically have gain to my batteries from my setup. I have wireless temperature monitors/loggers which help keeping an eye on refrigerator temps with trends and alarms. The addition of frozen water bottles at the start of a trip has been our practice.  I have always taken a well chilled Yeti-clone cooler to augment the food/beverage storage while camping.

Travelin3D

@VictoriaP, @AnOldUR yes, it cuts easily with a jigsaw. Took a bit of wrangling to make the cardboard template, but really not too difficult. I kept it just in case we want to do the sink side but the co-pilot says we don’t need it; it would intrude a little on the sink space, we’ll see.

AndreO

Hi @bergge,

Thx, I like early spring and late fall camping and just didn't want to worry about damaging the Batts or not being able to charge them at any point.  There is a by-pass switch so I don't have to have the internal heaters on if I don't think I need them. (saving on batt consumption) I'm actually more concerned about high Temps with lifepo4s. The heat is more damaging to them than cold and in a tighter range.

So once again the negative impact of high cabin Temps in the trailer on the move.

I'm looking at a Redarc 50 amp dc-dc charger which should give me 160ah worth of charge in about 3-1/2 hrs even with the fridge running 100% of the time. However I drive and F150 and the distance between Batts is a good 45 feet. So looks like a substantial gauge wire will be required. As Nucamp does not use the frame as a neg DC ground I have to figure out some workarounds. The 3/0 gauge wire to cover at 90 feet round trip just too expensive at around $900.00 CDN and heavy. But this sort of thing is more of a warm weather project.

Andre

Tabaz

For years I've been fighting the bungee cord holding the television to the wall.  Saw this on CrabTab's "for sale" post.  Put one on and it's so much easier to remove and install that bungee!

CrabTab

Good eye @Tabaz. Just one of our many 'micro mods' to make the T@B more user friendly. Thanks for taking the time to look at the post.
I guess I need to get serious and post the ad in more locations to get it moved to the next owner. Then we can start 'pimping out' a 400.

AnOldUR

Here's an easy one. Good chance that it's not original, but I was just working on re-routing glycol lines and had to add a little fluid to the expansion tank afterwards. As usual the cap was loose. Can't get it tight before the threads disengage. Surprising that this poor design made it this far. Anyway, I found a fix. One of those wide rubber bands that are used to hold lobster claws. Not sure how it will react to the glycol, so I'll keep an eye on it.

FishDoctor

I recently installed an Aili Battery monitor so I can keep better track of the state of my battery while camping. It's working great. The shunt for the monitor was mounted on the top of the battery and fits under the lid of the battery case without any problem. It took some work to figure out the routing for the battery monitor communication wire so I could mount the monitor inside over the existing SeeLevel II monitor panel. I did not need to drill any new holes for the wire, just a mounting hole in the panel above the SeeLevel for the display. This monitor is much better than the voltage-only readout on the SeeLevel II. Now I can quickly keep track of state-of-charge, volts, amps in/out (indicates whether battery is being charged or discharged), and battery voltage at any given time. The settings can be changed when I upgrade to a higher amp-hour battery at some future date. The photo makes it look like the display is mounted crooked, but it is straight.

MadCityJack

@FishDoctor
Nice job.  I am curious how you brought the wire into your Tab.  Thank you.

FishDoctor

MadCityJack said:

@FishDoctor
Nice job.  I am curious how you brought the wire into your Tab.  Thank you.

I followed the wire from the shutoff switch to see where it ran through the floor into the trailer. The wire bundle runs through a rubber gasket and there was just enough room for me to squeeze the data cable through that opening. After the hole for mounting the display was cut into the wall, we were able to feed the wire down into the wall (had to jockey around some framing that is inside the wall by going closer to the front of the T@B). There is an access panel on the wall at the inside bottom of the sink cabinet that can be opened by removing a few screws. With the help from my son, piece of steel wire was inserted through the gasket from the outside and used to pull the communication wire through so we could feed it to the battery compartment. One complication I had was that we had to cut the data plug from end of the data cable at the battery end so we could get the cable through the gasket (I left enough wire dangling on either side of the cut to reconnect). Then I used Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors and a heat gun to reconnect the data plug. Everything worked fine when I got done, but it was a PITA. (I looked for a crimp-on version of the data plug, but it was too complicated to figure out the right thing to order, so I just used the butt connectors.) For neatness, the data wire was slid inside the plastic conduit wrap that the other battery wires run through to the battery. After everything was installed, I applied sealant where the wire bundle goes through the gasket underneath the T@B.

If I was doing it again, I would probably remove and reconnect the data plug at the display end of the cable instead of the battery end and pull the wire from the outside to the inside. But it all worked out fine.

Afterwards, I did wonder whether I would have been better off to spend more money and just get a Victron SmartShunt with bluetooth so I didn't have to bother with installing a wired display -- It would have cost about $80-$90 more for the Victron. It took us about 90 minutes to install the Aili monitor (that included making battery connectors for the shunt using copper pipe but didn't count the trip to the electronics store for butt connectors and shrink tubing). The Victron SmartShunt has a lot more data tracking capability that appeals to my geeky side, but I really like the simplicity of being able to quickly look at the display instead of using a smartphone app.

Sorry for the long response, but I hope it helps.

Denny16

@FishDoctor you could always locate a local computer service that does data network wiring and have them re-terminate an RJ connector back on your monitor data cable.  It takes about five minutes or less to do, with the correct tool.
 Cheers 

ScottG

MadCityJack said:

@FishDoctor
Nice job.  I am curious how you brought the wire into your Tab.  Thank you.

@MadCityJack, if you are interested, this discussion chronicles my misadventures running a second battery line into the T@B. This older discussion also offers alternatives from several owners.

MadCityJack

@ScottG, Thank you.  The posts you sited will prove useful.  

FishDoctor

Denny16 said:

@FishDoctor you could always locate a local computer service that does data network wiring and have them re-terminate an RJ connector back on your monitor data cable.  It takes about five minutes or less to do, with the correct tool.
 Cheers 

I thought about that. If it was a standard RJ ethernet or phone connector, I would have had everything I needed to put on a new connector. Based on my searches, some battery monitor data cables basically use ethernet connectors (e.g., Victron). When I bought the monitor, I didn't realize I would need to remove the connector to feed it into the trailer if I didn't want to make additional or larger holes. I just decided to use waterproof solder butt connectors together with a piece of heatshrink tubing around the whole wire bundle to reconnect it myself. Once I had the connectors, it was pretty easy to do using a heat gun.

Denny16

So not a standard RJ type connector…. It works, so you are good to go.
Cheers 

aphillips

@Denny16 I have been researching back up cameras for our Tab 400 that is on order. Which one did you choose? Thanks. 

Denny16

I haven’t got one yet, still looking at the options.  Whilst on the road, I really have not needed one, as on the pre 2020 TaB400s with rear Stargazer window is lower, allowing you to see through the TaB’s front window, out the back and see traffic behind you.

I find a backup camera would be handy for backing into camp sites.  One idea I am thinking of trying is using Velcro to mount my iPhone on the back of the TaB, create a FaceTime call to my wife’s iPhone 12 in the truck cab, which is mounted to a bracket on the dashboard (instrument panel).

There is another outdated term, Dashboard.  Motor vehicles haven’t had real dashboards since the Model A type automobiles.  A dashboard was originally a panel put between the front seat/driver of a horse drawn vehicle, to keep dirt and rocks kicked up my the horse from hitting the people in the front seat (driver).  We call,them rock guards today. 
cheers

AnOldUR

Denny16 said:

... rear Stargazer window is lower, allowing you to see through the TaB’s front window, out the back and see traffic behind you.

That would be nice. No such luck with our 320. Our Garmin GPS works with a backup camera. I find it more useful for keeping track of who's behind me (and how close they are) than actually backing up. 

webers3

Inspired by @GeoMars and with little help from my friends, replaced the Norcold 3-Way with efficient and reliable 12v compressor fridge. Still need to install a lock strong enough to hold drawer in place while driving. No more babysitting the 3-Way!!

Dutch061

@webers3, NICE JOB!

Brad

Blueespy

That is a great idea.  We have a 2019 t@b 400 BDL with a three-way and recently we've been having issues running it on DC power (control board is good and we've upgraded to lithium batteries.  Has anyone replaced their NORCO 3-way in a t@b 400 with anything else?  We have a 50qt ARB fridge/freezer but it may be too big for the space. 

Blueespy

Denny16 said:

I haven’t got one yet, still looking at the options.  Whilst on the road, I really have not needed one, as on the pre 2020 TaB400s with rear Stargazer window is lower, allowing you to see through the TaB’s front window, out the back and see traffic behind you.

I find a backup camera would be handy for backing into camp sites.  One idea I am thinking of trying is using Velcro to mount my iPhone on the back of the TaB, create a FaceTime call to my wife’s iPhone 12 in the truck cab, which is mounted to a bracket on the dashboard (instrument panel).

There is another outdated term, Dashboard.  Motor vehicles haven’t had real dashboards since the Model A type automobiles.  A dashboard was originally a panel put between the front seat/driver of a horse drawn vehicle, to keep dirt and rocks kicked up my the horse from hitting the people in the front seat (driver).  We call,them rock guards today. 
cheers

Denny16

We have a 2019 t@b 400 BDL and did quite a bit of traveling before I pulled the trigger and got a backup camera.  We were on a 3-month trip and had to get the wheel bearings serviced.  Was at a t@b dealership and they had their backup cameras on sale.  I opted to have one installed but went cheap and only got the 4" monitor.  It was helpful but the monitor just wasn't large enough, so once home checked a well known RV etc. supplier and was able to just buy the larger, 7" monitor and have to say it's great.  For us it's great for backing up and then checking the dead zone directly behind the t@b where those little cars like to hide.  It's also helpful when clearing traffic next to you when changing lanes.  Thought about the smart phone route but you lose the ability to take calls on one phone and on the one in the cab, you would have to access the call and may lose the video.  Just too large a pain.  Our backup was wired to a break light and the monitor is bluetooth connected.

AndreO

Hi @aphillips,
I have a Furrion observation camera with the  monitor  mounted right under my mirror. When driving with the trailer you don't even have to think about it,  it just replaces the mirror.

One thing though.. make sure they mount it above and not below the stargazer window.  

My dealer was supposed to mount it above but when I picked up the trailer they had put it below. Told me that is where Nucamp said it should go.  (Bull just easier for them to install)

If you just get a backup camera I'm sure that would be fine. But for an observation camera it doesn't work. Being low,  the evening sun and cars headlights will point directly into the camera which will whiteout your screen making it useless at night.

Andre

rh5555

One comment about monitor placement:  If you need to use reading glasses to focus on things up close, then your monitor is likely to be fuzzy if it is up high (by the mirror).  Reading glasses (be they progressive or bi-focal) have the close-focus region at the bottom.

AndreO

Hi @rh5555,

Lol, just so happens I do wear progressives. I really hope you aren't you saying you can't use your rear view mirror with your glasses! 😜

However, all joking aside, I agree with you, you should mount the monitor wherever is most comfortable for you. I was just pointing out that I found that location was a natural transition for me.

Andre

AnOldUR

AndreO said:

I really hope you aren't you saying you can't use your rear view mirror with your glasses!

Off topic, but progressives work fine using the inside mirror since the focal distance is correct for the top of the lens. Not the same as trying to focus on a monitor in the same location. I had progressives for a short time (tossed them). Never could get use to turning my head rather than my eyes to look into the driver side mirror.

SLJ

manyman297 said:

They're IP56 I believe...so essentially water and dust proof. I think time will tell if the UV rays will degrade the plastic. Worst case I buy another set at some point.

Those are nice. Get some 303 protectant spray. It what we use on canoes to help block UV rays.

SLJ

Denny16 said:

I find a backup camera would be handy for backing into camp sites.  One idea I am thinking of trying is using Velcro to mount my iPhone on the back of the TaB, create a FaceTime call to my wife’s iPhone 12 in the truck cab, which is mounted to a bracket on the dashboard (instrument panel).

I installed a Garmin back up camera (BC 40) on my T@B. My 7" Garmin GPS is the monitor.  Works great, No need for a monitor and is hands free as the Garmin has voice commands. Camera is over license plate and transmitter is attached to the front of the T@B so there's plenty of signal. Got power from the license plate light. I tried the wireless Garmin camera first but not enough signal to get through the aluminum T@B.