Good idea. With the stove out you can get a pretty good view of all the relevant innards. Unlike some of the newer T@Bs, the stove in my 2015 was not caulked in place, so lifting it out is pretty easy once you loosen the clamps/screws at the four corners.
Any chance of anything falling off when you loosen the screws? Can one loosen them too much?
Some have blocks, some have fussy little clamps that swing one way or the other depending on which way you turn your screwdriver. Either way, you would have to try really hard to mess something up.
I had the fussy little clamps. Replacing them with blocks has really helped curb my T@B-related cursing. :-)
Checked with Verna and thought my experience might help some T@B Owners with the same conditions.
After receiving the initial official notice from NuCamp with attached pictures, I checked our 2015 T@B S Max and saw we had the interference problem, but no apparent hose damage so I asked the warranty dept for the proper clamps. I received the clamps from them this week. I have installed them and the attached pictures shows there are now no clearance problems with the Norcold refrigerator fins. There was no damage I could see or feel to the hose where it contacted the fins and we have put about 4000 miles on the unit (mostly highway) so far. There was some insulation between the hose and the fins so this may be why.
Hoses Before Clamping
The only feasible way to mount the clamp with the hose slack available in my particular installation was to attach it to the removable panel. One of the attached pictures shows where the machine screw and nut securing the clamps on the other side is located. Space is tight on the frig side of the removable panel and it was very tricky 1) finding the right location to drill a hole for the screw [note the 1st bad try below the final hole!] and 2) getting the screw started in the hole. To get more flexibility to move the panel a little to do #2, I drilled out the panel mounting holes (not the main panel holes) slightly so that the screws could move in them by hand before finally tightening them securely in the main panel on the frig side. Otherwise most of the screw tightening force is spent in the removable panel holes itself and not the main panel it is attached to. This is an annoying problem that could be corrected in manufacturing with slightly bigger holes in the future to make the panels easier to remove while still having secure fastening to the main panel and I made that recommendation to Pleasant Valley.
Below are pictures attached in a sequence to see the whole job. I consider this problem fixed.
Received Parts (There are two single clamps there)
Sink Side of Panel Showing Where Clamp Screw is Secured
Hoses With Clamps Installed
Another View Showing New Clearance
Caution! Looking at all the posts on this recall, there seems to be a lot of variation in T@B units depending on the model and dates manufactured regarding spacing and slack in the hoses. The above covered my situation, but everyone will have to make their own decisions on what to do. If in doubt, I definitely recommend getting an opinion from a reputable dealer that has all the information.
Well, I took a picture that doesn't show the distance between the two hoses. I'm thinking I can either use the tie strap method to pull the errant hose away from the fins, or get a single clip and do something similar to the double hose clip method.
Is the zip tie connection approved by PV? I went the route of the extra clamp, with photo documentation and was noted and approved by PV. Just trying to save one extra step to do, unless this is a temporary fix, till you get to a dealer.
Also, has there been an approved fix by PV sent to the dealer, with instructions and parts to take care of this recall?
Ed approved my 3/8" wide UV resistant tie wrap (zip tie), but he wants to replace my hose next summer when I start my East Coast trip. I'll bet he'll replace the tie wrap when he replaces the hose.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
RollingLagrima, Sally, was that a real tear of sorrow for us that have to winterize, or just a spot of sunscreen that didn't get fully rubbed in? Just kidding, have fun in the sun! Verna, I feel for you & the others that got effected by not only the hurricanes, but the tornadoes in the area as well. My sister in law lives in South Carolina, so I got a pretty good description of the results of Hurricane Mathew from her. Our favorite spot BARELY survived the wildfires of last summer [2015], so I can empathize.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
I will finally take a look at this this weekend before heading out. I will be CA beach-bound for some R£R (truly sorry for all you winterizers).
I concur! I have LOVED my coastal trip (left OR in Aug and hit a few places there - then into N. CA, Central CA and been in S. CA since Sept). Going to get in one more beach camping at S. Carlsbad State Beach the beginning of Nov when I leave my son's driveway in Oceanside. Then it's bye-bye to the beach as I head inland, making my way slowly back to Tucson. If I could afford it, I stay in Southern CA in a beach campground
Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
VIN number check didn't work (as others have reported), and called PV and the woman who handles this was already gone for the day since she leaves early on Fridays. I left a voicemail with my phone and VIN number.
I wanted to post my photo for feedback, as I don't see any rubber hoses running around the fins, there's a copper line instead...
RollingLagrima, Sally, was that a real tear of sorrow for us that have to winterize, or just a spot of sunscreen that didn't get fully rubbed in? Just kidding, have fun in the sun!
AldebaranJill, given your issues with the AC outlet (separate thread), you do seem to have an unusual T@B! I wonder when and why they switched from the copper propane line to the separate rubber hoses everyone else seems to have.
@ScottG - I had no idea how "special" my T@B was! I wonder what other things about mine will turn out to be quite different from the ones everyone else has.
2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan Seattle, WA
I know that this subject has been very well beaten and is very redundant in nature, but I wanted to post up and share a few photos of the recall repair I did on my 2015 T@B Max S. I thought about this after initially getting the propane lines off of the Norcold cooling fins and decided to revisit it a few days back.
Frank's suggestion of using the rescue tape is a worthy/good idea and after moving/securing both propane lines (to the stove and Norcold) in place I felt it was wise to wrap rescue tape around both propane lines since they sit beneath the stove and it does get very hot under there I'm sure and any potential contact with the underside of the stove could melt the propane line.
The minimal cost of the rescue tape to me was well worth the time and effort to beef up the propane lines/protect them from heat and to ensure safety while using the stove. I'm not trying to create any mass hysteria here and am not saying that any factory recall work performed won't sufficient, etc. but am sharing this as a means of awareness and to ensure personal safety. My propane lines looked good and I'm comfortable/confident with the repair work I've completed on my trailer and certainly would always encourage people to let the professionals do these modifications to ensure that it is performed to their specifications and per the recall notice.
I used some of the black corrugated protective electrical covering and slid it over both lines to protect the propane lines and keep them from rubbing against the Norcold fins. I used one plastic clamp and a zip tie to keep both lines secured in place. I had some of the corrugated covering and needed an extra piece and removed the one next to it that was over the frig wiring and replaced that piece with some smaller corrugated covering I had available and in abundance.
There is a small/soft red wire that runs over the top of the Norcold unit and to the wiring harness that sits near the wall and on top of the Norcold unit. This was rubbing against the silver line shown above. I decided to use a piece of aluminum tape to secure it in place and eliminate the rubbing action.
This is a shot of both propane lines beneath the stove area and was taken with the stove top slightly lifted up and on a slight angle. If I let the stove top down and left sitting flat I'm sure there is less clearance and I felt that by wrapping the rescue tape around both lines (it's good for 500F) it would eliminate any heat related issues and also give me peace of mind.
This is a shot with the stove removed and I used a good amount of the rescue tape on both propane lines and am confident that the repair work I've performed should be sufficient and corrects any potential issues down the road via the alert issued for the Norcold recall. I also used the yellow silicone propane pipe tape and this should also help to eliminate any potential propane leaks.
Since PV has sent me the replacement parts for this fix, I've decided to go to my dealer and have them do the work. Here's my question: since I've already winterized my trailer, including taking the battery out and storing it in a warm place, will I be able to bring my trailer to the dealer without installing the battery? Is there any need for the battery while towing?
Yes, you need the battery while towing so the break away switch engages in an emergency to stop the camper if you lose the trailer off the hitch. The repair shop would have batteries hanging around, so I wouldn't worry about them. It's just your liability while towing (depends on the laws state-to-state. Some states require electric brakes and therefore break away switches at 1000#, some at 1500# - check your local DMV website).
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
I had my dealer (General RV in Wayland, MI) do the recall repair today after PV sent me the parts. The factory told them it might be a two hour job but the tech had it done in less than an hour. He said my hose had been compromised so I was glad to have it repaired.
And...the follow-up. Turns out that the list of serial numbers of trailers that needed the recall work done did not have my new trailer on it. However, I asked them to check anyway. Turned out, it definitely DID need the recall work done. They were surprised and now have to call several people who bought T@bs from them in the last few months and ask them to bring their trailers in. The dealership has been good to deal with, but they've been amused with the level of research I bring to the table. I asked them to secure not only the fridge hose, but also the stove hose. They were perplexed by this request, until they got into it. They told me that both hoses needed to be secured and were grateful for the information I had provided. So, thanks forum members! You all made me look good. LOL
Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains!
LauraRey, You should give yourself a pat on the back as well for doing your research, and following through with it. Good catch, and I feel like you just "paid it forward" for some other folks that not only bought their trailers from that dealership, but to look even though their particular trailer might not be on the "list". Thanks for sharing the info!
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Comments
I had the fussy little clamps. Replacing them with blocks has really helped curb my T@B-related cursing. :-)
After receiving the initial official notice from NuCamp with attached pictures, I checked our 2015 T@B S Max and saw we had the interference problem, but no apparent hose damage so I asked the warranty dept for the proper clamps. I received the clamps from them this week. I have installed them and the attached pictures shows there are now no clearance problems with the Norcold refrigerator fins. There was no damage I could see or feel to the hose where it contacted the fins and we have put about 4000 miles on the unit (mostly highway) so far. There was some insulation between the hose and the fins so this may be why.
Hoses Before Clamping
The only feasible way to mount the clamp with the hose slack available in my particular installation was to attach it to the removable panel. One of the attached pictures shows where the machine screw and nut securing the clamps on the other side is located. Space is tight on the frig side of the removable panel and it was very tricky 1) finding the right location to drill a hole for the screw [note the 1st bad try below the final hole!] and 2) getting the screw started in the hole. To get more flexibility to move the panel a little to do #2, I drilled out the panel mounting holes (not the main panel holes) slightly so that the screws could move in them by hand before finally tightening them securely in the main panel on the frig side. Otherwise most of the screw tightening force is spent in the removable panel holes itself and not the main panel it is attached to. This is an annoying problem that could be corrected in manufacturing with slightly bigger holes in the future to make the panels easier to remove while still having secure fastening to the main panel and I made that recommendation to Pleasant Valley.
Below are pictures attached in a sequence to see the whole job. I consider this problem fixed.
Received Parts (There are two single clamps there)
Sink Side of Panel Showing Where Clamp Screw is Secured
Hoses With Clamps Installed
Another View Showing New Clearance
Caution! Looking at all the posts on this recall, there seems to be a lot of variation in T@B units depending on the model and dates manufactured regarding spacing and slack in the hoses. The above covered my situation, but everyone will have to make their own decisions on what to do. If in doubt, I definitely recommend getting an opinion from a reputable dealer that has all the information.
Good Luck!
Fergie in Minnesota
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Slow connection so a pic when I can.
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
Also, has there been an approved fix by PV sent to the dealer, with instructions and parts to take care of this recall?
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Verna, I feel for you & the others that got effected by not only the hurricanes, but the tornadoes in the area as well. My sister in law lives in South Carolina, so I got a pretty good description of the results of Hurricane Mathew from her. Our favorite spot BARELY survived the wildfires of last summer [2015], so I can empathize.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
I wanted to post my photo for feedback, as I don't see any rubber hoses running around the fins, there's a copper line instead...
Seattle, WA
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Seattle, WA
Frank's suggestion of using the rescue tape is a worthy/good idea and after moving/securing both propane lines (to the stove and Norcold) in place I felt it was wise to wrap rescue tape around both propane lines since they sit beneath the stove and it does get very hot under there I'm sure and any potential contact with the underside of the stove could melt the propane line.
The minimal cost of the rescue tape to me was well worth the time and effort to beef up the propane lines/protect them from heat and to ensure safety while using the stove. I'm not trying to create any mass hysteria here and am not saying that any factory recall work performed won't sufficient, etc. but am sharing this as a means of awareness and to ensure personal safety. My propane lines looked good and I'm comfortable/confident with the repair work I've completed on my trailer and certainly would always encourage people to let the professionals do these modifications to ensure that it is performed to their specifications and per the recall notice.
I used some of the black corrugated protective electrical covering and slid it over both lines to protect the propane lines and keep them from rubbing against the Norcold fins. I used one plastic clamp and a zip tie to keep both lines secured in place. I had some of the corrugated covering and needed an extra piece and removed the one next to it that was over the frig wiring and replaced that piece with some smaller corrugated covering I had available and in abundance.
There is a small/soft red wire that runs over the top of the Norcold unit and to the wiring harness that sits near the wall and on top of the Norcold unit. This was rubbing against the silver line shown above. I decided to use a piece of aluminum tape to secure it in place and eliminate the rubbing action.
This is a shot of both propane lines beneath the stove area and was taken with the stove top slightly lifted up and on a slight angle. If I let the stove top down and left sitting flat I'm sure there is less clearance and I felt that by wrapping the rescue tape around both lines (it's good for 500F) it would eliminate any heat related issues and also give me peace of mind.
This is a shot with the stove removed and I used a good amount of the rescue tape on both propane lines and am confident that the repair work I've performed should be sufficient and corrects any potential issues down the road via the alert issued for the Norcold recall. I also used the yellow silicone propane pipe tape and this should also help to eliminate any potential propane leaks.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf