Best Of
Re: Low power message for Chromecast with Google tv
Sounds like you probably have the latest model Chromecast device. What are you using for the power source?
The newest generation of Chromecast devices ('Chromecast with Google TV') will not operate on 5V @ 1 Amp power sources (older models did). You need a minimum of 5V @ 1.5 Amps, which means that the on default on board USB ports aren't going to cut it (they're 5V @ 1 Amp). If you have an older model, then you're not meeting the 5V @ 1 Amp threshold that's required.
Your easiest solution in this case would probably be using a 12v barrel adapter (the sort you'd put in your car) rated for at least 5V @ 2 Amps to power the Chromecast via one of the on-board DC sockets. Alternatively, you could wire in a similar but permanent charger to the onboard 12v power to supply higher-voltage, higher-amperage USB capabilities (e.g., this one from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-Socket-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B082PNLMDS). If you're so inclined, you could also tap the USB-C cable into the onboard 12v power (behind a 2Amp fuse), but this is is real headache with USB-C and probably not worth the trouble.
The newest generation of Chromecast devices ('Chromecast with Google TV') will not operate on 5V @ 1 Amp power sources (older models did). You need a minimum of 5V @ 1.5 Amps, which means that the on default on board USB ports aren't going to cut it (they're 5V @ 1 Amp). If you have an older model, then you're not meeting the 5V @ 1 Amp threshold that's required.
Your easiest solution in this case would probably be using a 12v barrel adapter (the sort you'd put in your car) rated for at least 5V @ 2 Amps to power the Chromecast via one of the on-board DC sockets. Alternatively, you could wire in a similar but permanent charger to the onboard 12v power to supply higher-voltage, higher-amperage USB capabilities (e.g., this one from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-Socket-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B082PNLMDS). If you're so inclined, you could also tap the USB-C cable into the onboard 12v power (behind a 2Amp fuse), but this is is real headache with USB-C and probably not worth the trouble.
Re: Is an all electric TaB trailer viable
Interesting analogy James, but running everything less AC and cabin heat is very doable on 400 amp/hr lithium. It’s the heating and AC that sure energy esters.
Our 200 amp/hr AGM keeps the two-way fridge and lights going for three to four days of camping. A 400 amp/hr lithium would give the extra energy needed for cooking, using a microwave and convection stove top burner. Most of our camp cooking is reheating pre-cooked meals, and some light cooking on the road.
Cheers
Re: Mattress alternative
Adding my positive feedback for this Exped mattress. I was never uncomfortable with my prior setup - Froli system, standard cushions with pillowtop topper before. But adding this mattress (now, Froli/cushions/Exped/pillowtop) has transformed my sleeptime to a state of "dreamy". Even my corgi seemed happier.
Thanks, @bergger!!
Thanks, @bergger!!
Re: Renogy 2000W Inverter Install in T@B 320S
If you're daisy chaining outlets and need GFCI protection, you only need one GFCI outlet in the daisy chain and that will provide ground fault protection to all the outlets in the chain.
Re: Renogy 2000W Inverter Install in T@B 320S
Literally every Renogy product on Amazon has a not-insignificant number of reviews that cite their mediocre-to-useless customer service. It’s why though I do own a set of their solar panels, I’d be extremely hesitant to order anything from them again. Their quality is generally good, but yeah, gotta hope you never need to use customer support.AnOldUR said:Renogy replied twice to my email question about the need for a circuit breaker. The first didn't address the question. Instead it was a generic response and asked for product information that was already included in the original ticket. I replied by repeating the original question. Their second reply was again not useful. I was not impressed by my first experience with Renogy customer support.…
Sure hope I don't need any real support.
Re: Mystery item in my T@B tub
When we moved last year, I had three totes of stuff like that. Various nuts, bolts, screws, spacers, washers plumbing scraps etc. DW asked why we were moving “that junk”. However, Several times a month, I fix or improve something using the “junk”.
It’s all important in moderation.
Re: New light switch in 2023 400 bed cubby.
I thought the battleborn batteries had an integrated heater that draws very low amps? I would think the switch and wire just sends the signal to turn on and off the internal heaters. I would think the distance would not be an issue with the proper wire. Anyway I just am not a fan of LED lights when trying to sleep.
Re: PSA: Rivets went AWOL - Disaster avoided
True, the maxlok site doesn't list clamp forces though and I merely wanted to highlight that 3/8 grade 8 bolts' normal operating forces are beyond the breaking limit of the maxlok. Tensile strength of the bolt is over 11000 lbs compared to 2600 lbs for the maxlok fastener.Dutch061 said:I am sorry, but there is a big difference in "Tensile Strength" and "Clamp Load". While Tensile strength determines the fracture point of the fastener, it is "Proof Strength" that is used for torque specifications. "Clamp Load" is the desired end result of the fastener being tightened and has a list of variables that can affect it that is a long paragraph.
Seeing that Huck markets how fast these can be installed I have a suspicion why lock bolts are used ....
Re: Storage cover for T@B 400 BD.
AllPro Adventures (nüCamp) makes a cover specifically for the TaB400, which seems to outlast the Amazon type RPod covers much longer, especially in areas of harsh weather. There have been several discussions on this here, which you can find using the Search feature in the top menu bar.
Cheers
Cheers
Re: Did I kill my battery?
I'm not a fan of using sheet metal screws. I bolted mine with stainless steel bolts and I used really big fender washers on the inside of the box as reinforcement for the plastic and a nylon washer against the aluminum and nylock nuts underneath. Maybe overkill but... If you crawl under the trailer you might be able to drill up from underneath the bottom to reuse at least a couple of the existing holes.PNWtabber said:
Next question: the old box was attached to the tub with sheet metal screws that extended through the front platform. The new box does not have any indications on it that it should be attached with screws -- although the strap for the lid does have anchors for screwing in. Do you see any problem with me screwing through the bottom of the new box to attach it to the tub and platform? Unfortunately, the holes will not likely line up with the old ones.
