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@ScottG NuCamp uses 2/0 wire for their install with a 300amp fuse. I installed my own system with the Victron Multiplus 3000w inverter and 4x100ah batteries. I consulted with Battleborn and they recommended 2/0 wire and a 300a fuse. That is what I used.

ScottG said:

Wild West indeed. Following up on @Hammick's question above, now I'm curious about the wire sizing. A very cursory perusal of the topic indicates 4/0 is commonly recommended for a 3000W inverter (with a design load of 350A). Some say 2/0 is fine if the run is no more than a few feet, though going "by the book" I'm skeptical of that claim. I have no idea what nuCamp uses in their lithium package.

I realize this topic has been pummeled in a couple in other forum discussions, but since I personally don't want or need an inverter I haven't paid much attention until this recall surfaced and scratched my curiosity. Thank you for humoring me if these details have already been addressed elsewhere.  :-) 

@ScottG
Victron (the manufacturer of the inverter used by nuCamp) for the 3000W/400AH Lithium package calls for a 400 Amp fuse, which means using 4/0 wire...and a much beefier disconnect than the standard one on our T@Bs.

ScottG said:

 Makes me wonder if they didn't upgrade the standard issue switch when they incorporated the 3000W inverter. 

That would be my WAG.  I once looked if there was any standard that RV man’fs have to follow like the NEC, but I found that RV building is like the Wild West with no standard requirements to follow for electrical design and building.  I  follow a couple of other Man’fs forums and incorrect wire and fuse sizing is a very common issue in RVs.  

The wire gauge from the 7-pin connector will limit the amount of current the trailer can draw from your TV. 10 ga. wire can draw up to 30A. You'd blow a fuse or melt the wire before you could draw more than that from the alternator. And with the length of the wire run, the voltage drop that length creates will likely mean the power from the TV won't meet the threshold for charge controllers to kick in. The DC/DC charger installation has to address the wire capacity issue and it also bumps up the voltage. 

Your TV likely already has an isolator relay on the tow harness, but you could add one if you don't. If you can measure 12V with a multimeter between the +12V and ground pins on the TV's connector with ignition off, then you don't have an isolator.

I suggest you also look at adding solar capacity (portable so you can place it for best exposure) in addition to your exploration of TV charging. 

Guys I just purchased a '23 400 that had the Lithium upgraded done immediately after purchase.  They added a solar input port close to the shore power input and installed an additional CC for it.  It's a Victron 75/10.  We currently have it opened up for cleaning and inspection so if anyone needs specific photos let me know.

The additional CC was installed just below the fridge on the left side.  The original 75/15 is under the bed.

@AnOldUR, I couldn't agree more. The available options have gotten better and much less expensive at an amazing rate.

@bjn2 My LiFePO4 journey has be a bit haphazard. The Dr. Prepare mostly rides in the back of my Wrangler and is dedicated to a small chest fridge/freezer. At the time I had a pair of AGM batteries in my T@B and put a Victron 75/15 in the tub to assist in charging them. I was happy enough with the Dr. Prepare battery that I purchased two of the non-hub versions to replace the AGM's. If I had it to do over, your 230Ah Li Time would probably win out for the trailer. The price, quality and choices of the newer LiFePO4's is hard to keep up with.