Best Of
Re: Demco eZ-Latch coupler Upgrade (TAB 320 BD)
I just took a closer look at mine and it appears to be a bit tapered, snugger at the top. Not perfect, but maybe enough to lessen the likeliness of catastrophic failure. I realize that I'm beating a dead horse. We all have our own comfort levels with this type of thing. I'm just expressing mine.bjn2 said:
I'd agree with you except the OEM's BAL coupler did not fit tight to the sides of the A-frame.
Protecting Windows While Trailer is Covered
Just wanted to give anybody interested a heads up. There has been concern about covers scratching windows. Some have gone as far as to cover the windows with a special film used on new cars during transport before covering their campers.
This past fall I simply applied Saran Wrap over the windows before covering. Just pulled the cover off today and the Saran Wrap was intact and the windows were totally protected. Cheap and easy if you’re the cautious type.
This past fall I simply applied Saran Wrap over the windows before covering. Just pulled the cover off today and the Saran Wrap was intact and the windows were totally protected. Cheap and easy if you’re the cautious type.
Re: Changing out the Alde fluid.
@manyman297 I'm not sure if they're all the same but mine has two tubes. One is a overflow tube and is a little lower on the tank. The tube in the picture posted above by @ReenieG would be where my the vent tube is located, not the overflow that runs out the bottom of the trailer.
edit to add that I routed the vent tube to a cup just in case any glycol made its way out.
edit to add that I routed the vent tube to a cup just in case any glycol made its way out.
Re: Winter camping in Tab (after winterizing)
I have a 2017 320S and experienced snow on my first long trip, March ‘22, in northern Nevada. I was winterized ( because I live in snow country) and my Alde wasn’t working (chased the necessary part from Eastern Washington to Las Vegas) but always carry a small space heater/fan. I planned my route to always have power and was fine. Anyway, I put no liquids down the sink, just a bit more antifreeze if needed, and used the toilet, flushing with antifreeze. Once I made it to Arizona I was able to empty my black tank and use water hookups again. Planning and flexibility is everything, and you can do it! Enjoy your journey! 
Re: Winter camping in Tab (after winterizing)
I also want to be able to do some short trip winter camping after I've winterized. I'm a total noob to RV camping and won't be picking up my 2023 320 Boondock until next week. But I've been searching the forum (great forum) and reading a downloaded manual.
I've seen posts that indicate I can use the Alde heater after winterizing as log as I don't reintroduce water into the system anywhere. However, the T@B Owners Manual states in the first time use section of the Alde heater, "Confirm there is no RV antifreeze in the Alde® Domestic Water Tank".
Since the winterizing instructions, as I understand them, will put antifreeze throughout the water lines, this sounds like I won't be able to use the heater after winterization.
Am I missing something and I will be able to use the heater?
If not, I guess I'm still better off than tent camping :-)
I've seen posts that indicate I can use the Alde heater after winterizing as log as I don't reintroduce water into the system anywhere. However, the T@B Owners Manual states in the first time use section of the Alde heater, "Confirm there is no RV antifreeze in the Alde® Domestic Water Tank".
Since the winterizing instructions, as I understand them, will put antifreeze throughout the water lines, this sounds like I won't be able to use the heater after winterization.
Am I missing something and I will be able to use the heater?
If not, I guess I'm still better off than tent camping :-)
Re: Replacing AGM with lithium in 2021 tab320 BD
I created a new thread with pictures here: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17955/litime-230ah-lithium-battery-install-in-2021-tab-320bd#latest
Thanks again for all of your help!
@Yoshi_TAB yes power still going out to junction. I need to do a brake check test just to be 100% sure though.
Thanks again for all of your help!
@Yoshi_TAB yes power still going out to junction. I need to do a brake check test just to be 100% sure though.
LiTime 230AH Lithium Battery Install in 2021 Tab 320BD
Hi folks,
Making a separate thread for the final install, but the journey started here: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17897/replacing-agm-with-lithium-in-2021-tab320-bd/p1
Lot's of parts buying and returning in those threads! But here is what the end product looks like. I still need to clean up my front tub and connect a solar port up there for my suitcase. Thanks to everyone in the previous thread for helping, and particularly @Yoshi_TAB and @pthomas745 for answering questions as they came along.
The Battery:
I put in a LiTime 230ah battery and installed it in the rear passenger side by the AIR8 AC unit. This was an unused space for me, and the battery fits perfectly. As you can see, there is a little wiring harness down there - the angle makes this look closer than it actually is though. I had room to screw some brackets in on both sides for battery straps. I crisscrossed them, so the battery doesn't move in any direction.
I also installed the Victron Smart Shunt here to monitor battery levels. All the wiring used pre-existing holes, which you can see going out to the right here. There is still a little storage space to the left of the battery, but I'm not sure what I'd put here. Tools or spare parts that you don't need often would probably be a good choice.
Here we have the positive/negative passing through. Not much going on. I'll just include it if anyone is curious about where to run wires.
Here the positive/negative come into the WFCO compartment, which is next to the bathroom on the 320. I put a 30amp in-line fuse here, which you can see at the top. The negative goes straight into the grounding bar, which is hidden beneath that AC duct, but you can see a bunch of white wires going into it.
The Busbar and Switch:
This is where the biggest changes were made. I put the switch to the right of the CO2 detector, and a small LED right below it.
The busbar has lines to:
Here is what that looks like from the front:
And here is a shot with the seat down, because I think the switch looks very clean right there when the leg of the seat comes down.
I think that's it for now. I still need to clean up the wiring in the front tub, and I need to buy a new solar input port, because the one I have is installed in the side of the front tub, but I added additional tubs in the front. Once I clean that out, I'll have a ton more space, and I'm hoping my Honda EU2200i will fit in there... but it looks like that would be a tight fit... Excited to check out the new tongue weight too. Hope it isn't too light now!
Making a separate thread for the final install, but the journey started here: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17897/replacing-agm-with-lithium-in-2021-tab320-bd/p1
Lot's of parts buying and returning in those threads! But here is what the end product looks like. I still need to clean up my front tub and connect a solar port up there for my suitcase. Thanks to everyone in the previous thread for helping, and particularly @Yoshi_TAB and @pthomas745 for answering questions as they came along.
The Battery:
I put in a LiTime 230ah battery and installed it in the rear passenger side by the AIR8 AC unit. This was an unused space for me, and the battery fits perfectly. As you can see, there is a little wiring harness down there - the angle makes this look closer than it actually is though. I had room to screw some brackets in on both sides for battery straps. I crisscrossed them, so the battery doesn't move in any direction.
I also installed the Victron Smart Shunt here to monitor battery levels. All the wiring used pre-existing holes, which you can see going out to the right here. There is still a little storage space to the left of the battery, but I'm not sure what I'd put here. Tools or spare parts that you don't need often would probably be a good choice.
Here we have the positive/negative passing through. Not much going on. I'll just include it if anyone is curious about where to run wires.
Here the positive/negative come into the WFCO compartment, which is next to the bathroom on the 320. I put a 30amp in-line fuse here, which you can see at the top. The negative goes straight into the grounding bar, which is hidden beneath that AC duct, but you can see a bunch of white wires going into it.
The Busbar and Switch:
This is where the biggest changes were made. I put the switch to the right of the CO2 detector, and a small LED right below it.
The busbar has lines to:
- The battery
- The new switch
- The MPPT solar controller (from VBATT+) - with 30 amp fuse
- A line to the front tub (connected to the old switch) - with 30 amp fuse
- To the junction box in the front of the trailer (black wire... I... ran out of my red wire)
Here is what that looks like from the front:
And here is a shot with the seat down, because I think the switch looks very clean right there when the leg of the seat comes down.
I think that's it for now. I still need to clean up the wiring in the front tub, and I need to buy a new solar input port, because the one I have is installed in the side of the front tub, but I added additional tubs in the front. Once I clean that out, I'll have a ton more space, and I'm hoping my Honda EU2200i will fit in there... but it looks like that would be a tight fit... Excited to check out the new tongue weight too. Hope it isn't too light now!
Re: Replacing AGM with lithium in 2021 tab320 BD
Hi @immanenceimmanence said:
Probably connecting the brakes on the other side of the trailer.
Just so your aware, the wire for the emergency electric brakes does not come from the battery compartment.
There is a junction box under the frame of your trailer. The electric brakes are wired to the junction box stud #6. The positive wire from your battery compartment also goes to the junction box stud #6 but after the switch (battery >switch>junction box> e- brakes). That is why the switch has to be on for their to be power to the E-brakes.
You still have power going out to the junction box ..correct? Just checking
The other wires are for your tow vehcile 7 pin connector.
Here's a photo from the files section of this forum.
Re: Coroplast bottom cover (belly pan)
@mikesnewjourney with temps in the 20s and 30s you'd probably be good with just adding some heating pads on the tanks and most importantly the dump valves. However if you drop the belly pan to do that you might as well insulate as well. Here is a thread from someone who added 12v heat pads and insulation to the underbelly.
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/12589/2021-nucamp-t-b-400-boondock-winterproofing-instead-of-winterizing#latest
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/12589/2021-nucamp-t-b-400-boondock-winterproofing-instead-of-winterizing#latest
