Best Of
Re: Leaking Pex Connection. Do I Need a Tool?
@manyman297.
I'm not sure how long it will last, but I've repaired two small leaks from this type of connection. I have a pair of pinch pliers in my toolbox and just tightened up the existing clamp. They are inexpensive and tend to fit in tight spaces. It's been 2 or 3 years since I repaired the first leak and, so far, it hasn't returned. The pliers shown below are in stock at the Lowes near me for about $15.
I'm not sure how long it will last, but I've repaired two small leaks from this type of connection. I have a pair of pinch pliers in my toolbox and just tightened up the existing clamp. They are inexpensive and tend to fit in tight spaces. It's been 2 or 3 years since I repaired the first leak and, so far, it hasn't returned. The pliers shown below are in stock at the Lowes near me for about $15.
Re: 3d printed lock for TAB 400 shower control
@HedCount Thanks for providing the file. Got mine printed out…
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
Alde has those little stubs in plastic. I bought some spare parts from another T@B owner and those plastic stubs were included. I believe you can find the part number on the Alde USA website. All my stubs were corroded so I replaced them with the plastic ones.pthomas745 said:Update: corrosion cleaned, ready to start putting things back together. Thanks again for all the good advice. With the proper tools I managed to heat shrink the convector ends. For those of you trying the conformal coating, please take the warnings seriously about fumes, etc. Stuff is..harsh. I wound up with my N95 masks on, used fans to keep the fumes away, etc. But it went on very easily.While examining the convector ends, the non return valve, and that small "stub" that connects the hoses into the expansion tank: I was getting quite close to having the corrosion eat all the way through the aluminum. On the inside of the return valve and the "stub", there were small "eruptions" on the inside of the tubes. I left these alone. But: I would much prefer to replace the two parts. Especially that "stub" on the rear convectors that are hidden from sight. Of all the places for a failure, that would be the worst.What I learned while reading and re-reading all these posts is: the sizes of the hoses, and the sizes of each of these little "stubs". Alde does have a part number for the stub: 1900-119, which is a simple 70mm long, 22mm aluminum tube. In the English "caravan" parts places, it sells for a couple of dollars, but with a huge shipping cost. Is it possible to replace that simple stub with a 22mm aluminum pipe like the one linked below? I bought two of these, and they fit the diameter fine, but they would have to be cut down a bit. I don't know enough about "anodizing" and whether or how the interior of these pipes would handle the Alde glycolI would still prefer to have a non-compromised connector at that point.I also will modify the hoses going into the expansion tank. I purchased a "3 inch, 90 degree" elbow that drops down an extra inch from the tank, and extends an extra inch to the rear convector. The EPDM heater hose is easy to cut and size. This will mostly eliminate the difficult angles in that connection. I'm just a bit concerned with that "stub".
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
The guy I bought the spare Alde stuff from received the parts under warranty so I'm thinking it was a 2020 or 21 but not sure. Here's a pic of my old stubs which were replaced with the plastic ones.pthomas745 said:Thanks, Dan. I sometimes wonder how many other smaller engineering decisions were made on the US Aldes delivered after the "Magic Glycol Change" date. How are the convectors different? The hose configurations and install processes? The little metal "stubs" that we see corroded?Do you know what year trailer/Alde the plastic stubs came from?Did you try reaching out to Missouri Teardrops? I sent an email this morning with the parts descriptions but have not heard back yet.
Re: Cannot pump grease one side of Dexter axle
FWIW, I did a manual repack/inspection of my bearings a couple years ago, and I don't recall needing any special puller to get things apart. That said, you will need a torque wrench and appropriately sized socket to get everything properly reassembled.
Re: Cannot pump grease one side of Dexter axle
Find any utility trailer business that handles utility trailers. The Dexter Axles are common around the industry, and there will be one of them who will know exactly what you need.
Lithium battery in 400
Planning on upgrading to either one or two Battleborn lithium batteries (100 - 200 Ah). I've heard that the solar charge controller in the 400 (ours is 2018 and has a "Rohs" brand controller) won't fully charge lithium batteries in the 400. Is this true? Should I invest in a new charge controller, such as a Victron?
Re: leak near mixing valve
Are you sure it’s the pet crimp? Mine, and at least one other here on the forum had a leak from the bleed screw ON the mixing valve. Made it look as though the pez was leaking, but in fact not. Replacing the o ring or tightening the bleeder screw should stop the leak(unless it is the pex crimp).
Updates to Forum Rules
FYI, we have made some minor updates to the general Forum Rules, and the related Guidelines for Buying and Selling.
The content of the rules has not changed appreciably. The recent edits are primarily to make the wording of the rules consistent with actual practices. In particular...
- We have removed highly restrictive language prohibiting external links to outside products and services. Members frequently post links that are of interest to other members. This is a useful exchange of information and should continue.
- We've added language that allows advertising the personal sale of T@B-related products of a craft nature. Such items are occasionally offered for sale or otherwise promoted in discussions. Allowance of this practice has not always been consistent.
Please note that advertising or promoting businesses or other commercial ventures is still prohibited. Moderators reserve the right to make final judgment on such matters, and to edit or delete postings when applicable.
Thank you all for keeping this forum a respectful and pleasant place to socialize and share ideas. Keep on T@bbin! :-)