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Re: 2004 Dutchmen built T@B T2 camper
Ours has a quite plain looking interior. I really like the front kitchen, and the stainless steel backsplash... it reflects light very well. I've got some outdoorsy themed wallpaper border, and will use double sided tape or something to hang some photos to make it more homey.
Re: 2004 Dutchmen built T@B T2 camper
Yesterday I made this panel insert to fit that DC power panel. I used a scrap of 1/4" thick oak veneer plywood... still have to oil and/or clear coat it. I'll glue in some supports behind for velcro attachment. I still need some kind of door hold open set-up - seen a few good ideas in mod threads, and the Richard Lewis T@B/T@G/T@DA on-line book (money well spent IMO).
2004 Dutchmen built T@B T2 camper
Edited for photo resizing.
Hi everyone. I introduced myself and our new to us (we're 3rd owners) 2004 T@B in the introduction thread, and there seemed to be interest in seeing some pics. There were a few interesting comments, and I thought I'd post up some pics, and discuss things in a running thread as I make a few changes. We are long time (tent) campers, and after attending this Boler 50th meet up here in Winnipeg (more about that here: http://www.myboler.com/ ), I got the green light from the Frau (she is German) to buy something. Well Bolermania has sure set in up here - I looked at 4 fiberglass trailers, and just couldn't bring myself to spend that much on an old fixer upper. I kept my eyes on the classifieds (Kijiji, like Craigslist), got lucky saw this T@B advertised, responded within the hour (first to respond), got 1st dibs at it, went and had a good look at it, and committed to buy it. Unfortunately, this was a late fall purchase, so we haven't camped in it yet, and it's deep winter now. It's in really good shape overall, no damage of any sort, and the galvanized frame has no rust - looks like it didn't see much gravel, and was well taken care of. I fixed a few minor things already, and upgraded the kitchen light to LED. I'll post up a few pics. Ours is a real oldie, the identiplate shows Dec 2003 production!
And here's a panorama shot of the interior:
First modification, upgraded that kitchen counter light... I like it bright! I installed this double 1156 bulb light, and used LED bulbs. Battery is out of it (it's -30C outside, deep winter here), but tested it in the house before installing it:
I'll post more on things I find, and changes I make, if there's interest. We only got one key with the camper, and couldn't get additional keys cut locally. It appears the key blanks are German, and not common here. Because I'd read about the door handles breaking, I ordered and already received a new door handle assembly, with 2 new keys, from NuCamp - Thnx Whitney! Good to have critical spares on hand... might not be many still to be had!? I'll be ordering the wheel bearing kits, and a set of replacement brake pads from them tomorrow.
Hi everyone. I introduced myself and our new to us (we're 3rd owners) 2004 T@B in the introduction thread, and there seemed to be interest in seeing some pics. There were a few interesting comments, and I thought I'd post up some pics, and discuss things in a running thread as I make a few changes. We are long time (tent) campers, and after attending this Boler 50th meet up here in Winnipeg (more about that here: http://www.myboler.com/ ), I got the green light from the Frau (she is German) to buy something. Well Bolermania has sure set in up here - I looked at 4 fiberglass trailers, and just couldn't bring myself to spend that much on an old fixer upper. I kept my eyes on the classifieds (Kijiji, like Craigslist), got lucky saw this T@B advertised, responded within the hour (first to respond), got 1st dibs at it, went and had a good look at it, and committed to buy it. Unfortunately, this was a late fall purchase, so we haven't camped in it yet, and it's deep winter now. It's in really good shape overall, no damage of any sort, and the galvanized frame has no rust - looks like it didn't see much gravel, and was well taken care of. I fixed a few minor things already, and upgraded the kitchen light to LED. I'll post up a few pics. Ours is a real oldie, the identiplate shows Dec 2003 production!
And here's a panorama shot of the interior:
First modification, upgraded that kitchen counter light... I like it bright! I installed this double 1156 bulb light, and used LED bulbs. Battery is out of it (it's -30C outside, deep winter here), but tested it in the house before installing it:
I'll post more on things I find, and changes I make, if there's interest. We only got one key with the camper, and couldn't get additional keys cut locally. It appears the key blanks are German, and not common here. Because I'd read about the door handles breaking, I ordered and already received a new door handle assembly, with 2 new keys, from NuCamp - Thnx Whitney! Good to have critical spares on hand... might not be many still to be had!? I'll be ordering the wheel bearing kits, and a set of replacement brake pads from them tomorrow.
Re: All Pro cover needs patching
Take a look at https://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Threads/Outdoor-Thread. You might want to look at the UV bonded ... but this might help guide you https://www.sailrite.com/Selecting-the-Right-Thread-Material
Re: Tires on older Dutchman T@b units
The 195/60s are correct on the 15" steel wheels you have. The 205/55s are correct on the 16" alloy wheels.
Generally speaking, the smaller tires have lower load ratings. The DM T@Bs use passenger vehicle tires and the smaller sizes you are considering may not have adequate load capacity. Certainly less safety margin than the recommended sizes.
Generally speaking, the smaller tires have lower load ratings. The DM T@Bs use passenger vehicle tires and the smaller sizes you are considering may not have adequate load capacity. Certainly less safety margin than the recommended sizes.
Re: Backing up with Al-ko surge brakes;12 volt battery required to get the Norcold 3-way fridge to work
That looks like a similar mechanism but much larger diameter than the model used on the DM T@BsGrumpy_G said:Here's a video on the AL-KO surge brakes, can any of the early Dutchmen T@b owners confirm that's what they have ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwYRgFA2vBc
The DM surge brakes do not require a pin to back-up.
From the look of the position of the hand brake handle in the OP's photo, the brakes are in need of adjustment. There are maintenance and adjustment manuals in the files here.
Re: Backing up with Al-ko surge brakes;12 volt battery required to get the Norcold 3-way fridge to work
No, it doesn't matter if the 12V supply comes from the converter or a battery. Given that the interior lights work at least part of the 12V system is working. Next step would be to check the DC fuse for the fridge.
Re: Backing up with Al-ko surge brakes;12 volt battery required to get the Norcold 3-way fridge to work
That should work. Not to offend you, but as you just got the trailer are you familiar with absorption fridges and how they differ from residential fridges ? Absorption fridges take a long time to cool down.
Thanks to the power of the Internet I learned the buttons are purely mechanical and don't need 12V power to function. When you switch it to gas, do you hear a "tick, tick, tick, tick, tick" from the relighter ? When you turn it to DC, does the fan in the power distribution box come on ?
Thanks to the power of the Internet I learned the buttons are purely mechanical and don't need 12V power to function. When you switch it to gas, do you hear a "tick, tick, tick, tick, tick" from the relighter ? When you turn it to DC, does the fan in the power distribution box come on ?
Re: Backing up with Al-ko surge brakes;12 volt battery required to get the Norcold 3-way fridge to work
Here's a video on the AL-KO surge brakes, can any of the early Dutchmen T@b owners confirm that's what they have ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwYRgFA2vBc
Re: Backing up with Al-ko surge brakes;12 volt battery required to get the Norcold 3-way fridge to work
As for the fridge, it does need 12V to operate on propane or DC (obviously, doh!). I *believe* the early style (push buttons for mode selection) also need it for AC operation. Hooking up to shore power should provide 12V power via the converter which should make all three modes work unless there is something wrong on the power side.
Troubleshooting steps: Trailer connected to shore power, do the 120V AC power outlets work ? If not, check breakers in the power distribution. Do 12V interior lights work ? If not, double check breaker for the converter, then DC fuses.
Troubleshooting steps: Trailer connected to shore power, do the 120V AC power outlets work ? If not, check breakers in the power distribution. Do 12V interior lights work ? If not, double check breaker for the converter, then DC fuses.