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Fridge Won't Light for Nothin :-(

NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
in Air Conditioning & Refrigeration
As I've mentioned in another thread, I've had the fridge flame go out 2-3 times while camped recently. It got worse and now I can't get it to even light. Propane is fine, stove, Alde working as normal. When trying to light I get the clicking and a faint poof but green light goes out no matter how long I hold the button or what I set the dial at.
I remember a thread about things getting misaligned - the ignighter? - so it wouldn't light but have no clue how to search for that. Anyone have a link? I think the fix involved removing the stovetop.
Need to get this working :-)

TIA
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    I would replace the thermalcoupler. It is the little thing stands in the middle of the pilot flame. They have a limited life span. They control the gas flow. 
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    db_cooperdb_cooper Member Posts: 726
    Dalehelman is probably correct.  And if you can't wait to get a part,  usually a little sandpaper to get the corrosion off will prolong it's life a little while.
    2015 Max S Outback | 2010 Xterra



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    Smullis7Smullis7 Member Posts: 221
    We have had the same issue, but have been able to resolve it by disconnecting the propane line at the tank and reconnecting.  It's almost like it releases a vacuum or something.  I spent well over 30 minutes one day trying to light the dang fridge.  Once I did that, it lit immediately.  I'm in CO at @6700' so not sure if that makes a difference or not.
    Sheila and the Mullis Pups (Winston, Morgan, Leroy & Dakota)
    M@bel M@y, my 2017 T@B Outback Max S (silver w/black trim), towed by Maude Myrtle, my 2016 Jeep Rubicon Hardrock.



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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    Thermalcouplers are a very common replacement part and some what universal. Most any hardware store has them. Fairly easy to replace as long as there is easy access. Just follow the burner head back to where it attaches to the gas valve.
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Will try the tank disconnect when I get settled in the next campground.
    Presume I'd need to remove the stovetop to sandpaper the thermocoupler - Anyone have a pic of what I'll be looking at/for?
    Where would I get a new one? Am camping somewhat remotely at the moment.
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    If your other gas appliances are working as you said, closing and opening the valve probably will not help.
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    By lifting the stove top it should be accessible.
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,421
    That's the same issue I have posted about previously. It occurs about 50% of the time when I go to light the fridge. So far, after letting it sit for a few hours (or in one case overnight) it lights just fine. I realize that is not a viable solution in all cases.

    I haven't had time or inclination to diagnose/fix this yet, and probably won't until next spring. I think Photomom mentioned something about checking the igniter gap at the burner. Dale's tip regarding the thermocouple sounds like a good lead, too.

    Please let us know what you eventually find out.
    2015 T@B S

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    Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,356

    The yellow arrow is pointing at the thermocouple attach point to the gas valve.  Don't have a photo of its location under the burner, but you may be able to follow the line to it.

    2016 Outback 320 with a 2010 Ford Expedition.
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    ChanWChanW Member Posts: 3,158
    edited October 2016
    PXL, that's the symptom that I experienced when our thermocouple connection became loose. At the (yellow) arrow In the photo that Outback provided. Easy fix, after lifting the stove top. Loctite has made it secure (use blue Loctite).
    Chan  -  near Buffalo NY
    2014 S Maxx
    2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah! 

     A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Cool - Thanks all...
    Just landed in camp and tried the propane disconnect/reconnect and it was a no go - Was hoping it'd be that simple.
    Out in the boonies so no locktight - Will have to just try tightening and redo later.
    It was mentioned maybe sanding lightly the ignighter and checking the gap - I presume I'll be able to see and fugure that out once I lift the stovetop tomorrow.
    Gonna have to pull the gen out to run the fridge - Of course I had just restocked so the fridge is jam packed.
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    You do not sand the igniter you will lightly sand the little bulb that sits in the center of the pilot flame.
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Ahhhh - Thanks
    I have a fairly good cell signal here so if I run into a question I'll annotate a pic and post since ya'll are Jonny-on-the-Spots :-)
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Thought I'd see what would happen if I tried to run off battery from solar.
    Initial reading was 15.0 - Down to 12.2 after a half hour. Another 15 minutes to 11.9 and I quit.
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    edited October 2016
    If the pilot lights and stays on as long as you hold the red button in, at least 30 seconds and then goes out when you release it. It's good bet it is the thermocouple. The flame heats up the TC and opens the gas valve. 
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    That's what happens - Light stays on as long as I hold the button in (tried up to 1.5 minutes) and goes out the minute I release it. Back on the minute I press it again.
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    Know doubt in my mine it is the TC. Remove it an take it the nearest hardware store. They should be able to match it.
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    TabberJohnTabberJohn Member Posts: 588
    edited October 2016
    If you use the fridge on propane a lot, you're going to want to keep a spare thermocouple handy.
    I've lived in older houses over the years with gas furnace/radiator heating. I always keep a spare hanging above the furnace and another above the gas water heater. They always wear out at the worst possible time. They're inexpensive if a generic model will work.
    2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Okey dokey - Nearest town is 20 miles, hope they have a hardwae store :-)
    TabberJohn - Propane 95% of the time.
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,421
    PXLated said:
    That's what happens - Light stays on as long as I hold the button in (tried up to 1.5 minutes) and goes out the minute I release it. Back on the minute I press it again.
    I guess I misunderstood your OP. Mine clicks, poofs, and then goes out while I'm still holding the red button. If I understand the mechanics correctly, that rules out the thermocouple. Sounds like it might be the fix in your case, however. Good luck!
    2015 T@B S

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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Just to make sure we're on the same page Scott...
    I get the faint clicking and a faint poof - The green light comes on and stays on as long as I hold the red button in no matter how long I hold it in. The green light goes out when I release the button.
    Thermocouple?
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    PXLated said:
    Just to make sure we're on the same page Scott...
    I get the faint clicking and a faint poof - The green light comes on and stays on as long as I hold the red button in no matter how long I hold it in. The green light goes out when I release the button.
    Thermocouple?
    Yes
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Ok, next question...




    The two ends of the thermocouple... #1 is easy to get at and unscrew ... #2 is way in the back there. Doesn't look like any threads. Does it just pull out and the new one pushes in? it's way in the back, I certainly can't get my hand all the way back in there. Don't tell me you have to pull the fridge.
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    jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,391
    @PXLated - if your problem is not fixed by replacing the thermocouple, try cleaning the burner and flue. That is the most common issue with an LP fridge. There are a lot of YouTube videos on how to clean them. Your biggest issue will be pulling the fridge out to access and it, probably harder, putting everything back. @Michigan_Mike described taking it out and putting it back in another thread.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    Sorry I do not know for sure. All of the ones I have ever seen have no fitting on the pilot end. Some are held in place with a small clamp. My guess is that it just pulls out.  I would mark where it enters before it is removed. So you know how far to insert the knew one. Once again you might try cleaning the end and reinstalling it.
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    TabberJohnTabberJohn Member Posts: 588

    Unless Norcold made things proprietary (ugh!) you should be able to unscrew the old TC at #1 and pull out the sensor tip on the other end.
    Then insert whatever you found at the hardware store into the sensor holder and connect the other end.
    If the replacement is too long you can leave a portion coiled up.
    The hardware store probably had something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00076VET8/
    Compare that to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031XDV18/
    Gotta love the price difference.

    2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
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    DalehelmanDalehelman Member Posts: 2,410
    If you need to coil the excess be careful not to kink or collapse the tubing.
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    #2 is so far back in there I may have to go to the hardware store just to get an extra long needle nose. Or cut a hole in the side of the lower cabinet to get at it.

    TabberJohn - Gonna try to pull it - Gave somewhat of a tug tonight and it didn't budge.

    Jenn - Not going to pull the fridge - if it needs that it's going to a shop. If I was stationary maybe but not in a campground.
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Ok, managed to get my hand back in, tugged pretty hard and no go. Other videos I've watched show a couple clips inside that box that hold it in place so this must have that also. Looks like it's pull the fridge or no go.
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    NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Anyone have a link to Mike's removal instructions? - have tried search but come up empty.
    Probably should take a look at that before I go searching for Norcold service centers.
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