Frame cracks where tongue bolts to frame

Dalehelman

It looks like this thread has been viewed by over 1,300 times to date. At this time we have 6 members of the forum that have reported cracks. I hope this is a good sign. Although as time goes by and more miles are added this number will probably increase. As I said before our cracks didn’t developed till somewhere after 10,000 miles. If in the future you have cracks please post your  approximate miles and model year. Many trailers will not reach 10,000 miles for many years if ever. If you have 10,000 miles or more. Please post your mileage from time to time even if you still have no cracks.

4ncar

2018 320S. Current mileage, ~ 2000. No cracks to date.

dragonsdofly

@Dalehelman, good suggestion to keep track of this over time. Our 2017 was built in April, 2016. We have what some might call a high mileage trailer with over 18,000 miles in less than 2 years (delivery 05/14/16). No cracks either side.

dragonsdofly

Passenger side.

Drivers side.

ericnliz

I'm about 1/2 way done with the tunnel though the snow to the T@B.... Seriously though, after reading through the threads on this posting, it seems like the 2015 models are the ones most effected. Only seems to be a portion of the 2015 model year run though. I'm wondering at this point if it wasn't a bad batch of frame material causing the cracking.

Dalehelman

@dragonsdoflyThanks that’s the kind of information that will help us pin point where this problem is occurring, and how wide spread it is. Then we can go on and determine the cause and best  remedy.

ScottG

Dalehelman said:

...
If in the future you have cracks please post your  approximate miles and model year. Many trailers will not reach 10,000 miles for many years if ever. If you have 10,000 miles or more. Please post your mileage from time to time even if you still have no cracks.

I agree. As someone mentioned previously, posting your manufacture date might also be helpful. The manufacture date should be printed on a sticker on the driver's side of the trailer tongue. Manufacture dates are much more precise than model years, as components may change during a model year, or may span multiple model years.

My 2015 (no cracks yet) was built 12/2014.

db_cooper

Our 2015 (built 11/2014) is fine.  Probably 6000 miles on trailer,  and a fair bit of it on rough roads. Not sure which was worse, the paved road to Mt. Baker or the washboarded forest road to the Hiawatha rail to trail in Idaho.

Will update if anything changes.

If you see this JK Jenn,  I'd recommend putting some rust preventative on the underside frame bits.  Rust always wins, but it can be slowed down.  I spray Boeshield on all the frame bits once a year, takes 10 minutes.  I also used Rust Cure 3000 once, but I use Boeshield for other things like bike chains so I'm just going to stick with that. 

https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

rajamar

One more data point: Bought used a pristine, low mileage 2016 (mfg. 7/15) T@B S. Original owner stored inside and we do too (RV storage place). Brought it home last week to prepare for our first trip. No rust or cracks in the area being discussed. Pleasantly surprised that even the stabilizer bolts and nuts are shiny and rust free.

jkjenn

db_cooper said:

Our 2015 (built 11/2014) is fine.  Probably 6000 miles on trailer,  and a fair bit of it on rough roads. Not sure which was worse, the paved road to Mt. Baker or the washboarded forest road to the Hiawatha rail to trail in Idaho.

Will update if anything changes.

If you see this JK Jenn,  I'd recommend putting some rust preventative on the underside frame bits.  Rust always wins, but it can be slowed down.  I spray Boeshield on all the frame bits once a year, takes 10 minutes.  I also used Rust Cure 3000 once, but I use Boeshield for other things like bike chains so I'm just going to stick with that. 

https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Thanks, @db_cooper when I saw the rust, dealing with hit the top of the spring project list. I appreciate the recommendation!

wizard1880

Another data point--ours is a 2014 model, manufactured 2/2014.   No cracks found on either side.  <2000 miles.  Will inspect before each season (along with the water tank sanitize routine).

Luckyj

Just so it can help to understand.

surface rust does not create crack in a piece of steel.  Deep rust like holes will create a week point that can generate cracks.

a crack will generate rust, cause paint also crack with the steel, exposing the steel lettong water, dust and air generating rust.

Sharon_is_SAM

@Dalehelman have you been over to the Yahoo Tab group lately?  I just returned there after a long absence and found a thread on a major frame cracking - as in separating on a 2006 DM Tab.

Dalehelman

SAM said:

@Dalehelman have you been over to the Yahoo Tab group lately?  I just returned there after a long absence and found a thread on a major frame cracking - as in separating on a 2006 DM Tab.

I know longer follow yahoo T@B group. A 2006 T@B would have a totally different chassis. 

Sharon_is_SAM

OK.  I will see if anyone else with a newer chassis has reported cracking on that website.

tabiphile

Luckyj said:

Just so it can help to understand.

surface rust does not create crack in a piece of steel.  Deep rust like holes will create a week point that can generate cracks.

a crack will generate rust, cause paint also crack with the steel, exposing the steel lettong water, dust and air generating rust.

These are stress cracks from fatigue. In other words, there is a load (force) that has been applied in the failure areas that exceeds the materials ability (strength) to resist the load. Fatigue failures happen when that excessive load is applied cyclically (often) in the place of failure. So in terms of what is happening here...why is there an excessive load applied to the failed location? Based purely on the few photos (of failed frames) that have been provided it appears that the hardware that joins the frames may not be properly securing the joint. That allows flex at the failure location that in turn causes that location to see a higher force load than what any of the fasteners and locations should individually see. The excessive load cracks the frame. The load should be shared equally across each bolt.
A possible cause of this failure is that the hardware may not be not tight enough to properly reduce the flex on the failed location. It is also possible that this could be compounded by overly large holes in the frame..that would allow the hardware to shuck around when it flexes. That would increase the likelihood of failure.
This appears to be a design and manufacturing fault...
A simple assembly error, batch of bad parts or an assembly process error can magnify what appears to a somewhat marginal design and result in the failures that are being reported.

Rust follows in the cracks..it is not the cause of the cracks.

Dalehelman

Follow up: After talking to NuCamp warranty department and Norco the frame manufacturer. They have offered to replace the cracked frame section while I am at the NuCamp rally this summer. After showing them pictures they both freely offered to make the repairs. Even though our trailer is out of warranty. They both responded quickly. Even though I did not request repairs. I just wanted them to know the problem was out there. As we speak I believe @jkjenn is having her frame rail replaced.

ericnliz

@Dalehelman, That's just ANOTHER good reason we bought a T@B! (P.S...still needing some help with the trench through the snow to get to mine! Any volunteers?)

jkjenn

Mine is being replaced this week at Nucamp.

ScottG

If frame component replacement is indicated, were there any suggestions for owners who don't live anywhere near Sugar Creek and don't plan on visiting any time soon?

AMsl

Checked ours, '18 Outback, manufactured 04/17, put on ~5000 miles since picking up unit  in May '17, all seems well. 

Dalehelman

If we were not going to the NuCamp rally this summer I would have the cracks welded. Then watch to see if it cracked again. My guess is NuCamp would cover my costs. I am sure I would want my local dealer doing this repair. Unless the problem became far more extensive.

4ncar

Are they replacing the entire undercarriage??

jkjenn

ScottG said:

If frame component replacement is indicated, were there any suggestions for owners who don't live anywhere near Sugar Creek and don't plan on visiting any time soon?

I am guessing they would work with dealers that are local to you. That is what they have done in the past for folks with ither issues.

Dalehelman

4ncar said:

Are they replacing the entire undercarriage??

In our case just the frame rail on the cracked driver side. NuCamp is allowing two days for the repair.

BirdieJane

So I have been reading all the post, I remember watching a video by Mandy lea, Vlog episode 5 when she had her trailer frame break https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K3PjDpqOrOQ. 
While it was not a 320, wow did what is now Nu Camp go to great effort to make it right. Now the frame failure is not in the same location or the same model as this thread discussion, it is a frame failure all the same.

Dalehelman

@BirdieJane great video thanks for sharing. Mandy is a really neat lady. We had the pleasure of meeting her at Tabazona 2118. Her case was definitely a frame failure. In our case these are hair line cracks that at this time do not require immediate attention, just observation. 

BirdieJane

My post was sharing a great story of customer service from Nu Camp. I think anyone who may have a problem with the frame can have confidence in the manufacture.

Dalehelman

BirdieJane said:

My post was sharing a great story of customer service from Nu Camp. I think anyone who may have a problem with the frame can have confidence in the manufacture.

X2

Luckyj

tabiphile said:

Luckyj said:

Just so it can help to understand.

surface rust does not create crack in a piece of steel.  Deep rust like holes will create a week point that can generate cracks.

a crack will generate rust, cause paint also crack with the steel, exposing the steel lettong water, dust and air generating rust.

These are stress cracks from fatigue. In other words, there is a load (force) that has been applied in the failure areas that exceeds the materials ability (strength) to resist the load. Fatigue failures happen when that excessive load is applied cyclically (often) in the place of failure. So in terms of what is happening here...why is there an excessive load applied to the failed location? Based purely on the few photos (of failed frames) that have been provided it appears that the hardware that joins the frames may not be properly securing the joint. That allows flex at the failure location that in turn causes that location to see a higher force load than what any of the fasteners and locations should individually see. The excessive load cracks the frame. The load should be shared equally across each bolt.
A possible cause of this failure is that the hardware may not be not tight enough to properly reduce the flex on the failed location. It is also possible that this could be compounded by overly large holes in the frame..that would allow the hardware to shuck around when it flexes. That would increase the likelihood of failure.
This appears to be a design and manufacturing fault...
A simple assembly error, batch of bad parts or an assembly process error can magnify what appears to a somewhat marginal design and result in the failures that are being reported.

Rust follows in the cracks..it is not the cause of the cracks.

@tabiphile
Euh, I think that is what I said.  And you can also read my post from feb 22.

have a good one.