EXPANDED RECALL OF T@B 320's from 1/1/2013 to 8/31/2016 for 3-way refrigerators

Ratkity · September 2016

PXLated said:

Amongst other things :-)

ROFL

Photomom · September 2016

ScottG said:

It might also be helpful if T@bbers who have this condition--but do not have any significant damage to their propane hose--could take a breather and give PV a chance to respond to those who need immediate action. Zip tie it, pad, it, whatever--that hose is not going to self-destruct overnight!

And even if you have a hole in the hose you can turn the propane off at the tank and still use your trailer.

Tabaz · September 2016

The propane hose to the stove is fine. The hose to the fridge didn't have enough slack to get it off the fins. The first photo shows the factory configuration (no slack). I went to a hardware store and purchased an angle fitting ($2.50) in order to get more slack in the hose by the fins. Worked great (second photo). Now fridge hose is completely off the fins. Had to put the stove on shore power for about an hour before it would light on propane. Left it on all night and re-checked for leaks near the fitting. The temperature at the fins is approximately 128 degrees, so the Rescue Tape should work (rated at 500 degrees). Also, I used the yellow Teflon tape made for gas around the fittings.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/sd/8k4ssd22g9hg.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/3r/0tzq3rnpkdb3.jpg

ScottG · September 2016

I like that, OutbackAZ. I noticed the sweeping bend in the hose cost a lot of slack. Was the special yellow teflon tape also available at the hardware store?

Nomad · September 2016

Nice.
With those pics, if one didn't want to attempt this themselves, they could probably find a heating/AC/refrideration person - they're usually certified to work with gas - to do this.

Tabaz · September 2016

Scott - Yes, available everywhere. Looks just like white Teflon tape, only yellow. Should be located near the gas fittings and pipes.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/va/5xb8no9wsja9.jpg

FYI - I just noticed when I put the stove back in the cabinet, the fridge propane hose now has so much slack, it lays against the underside of the left burner. I'll need to secure it to the top of the fridge somehow to keep that from happening. Will post pics when I get it figured out.

ChanW · September 2016

Kayakath, I'd think that Pleasant Valley/NuCamp will probably honor any repair you have done, of this recall item, either if you do it yourself, or if you have an RV repair place do it.

Edit: I really haven't any idea if Nucamp will reimburse you for an unauthorized repair. I've experienced that policy with most automotive recalls, but don't know if the same would necessarily apply for camper recalls.

If you're uncomfortable with the condition/position of the hose, you could get it fixed and document everything, and hope NuCamp will reimburse you.

ericnliz · September 2016

Good one DurangoTaB & PXL both, I needed a good chuckle this morning.

[Ratkity, sorry it was at your expense...not really

]

db_cooper · September 2016

I'm pretty sure I've PxLated a few things on the T@B before as well. :

mickietucs · September 2016

leenscottfl said:

I too have hoses touching fins and I too am getting ready to head out for a few weeks. So I tie wrapped irrigation hose over the gas lines and put all back where I found it. I can't imagine the problem worsening. When I return home I will see what the fine folks who build our toys can do for me.

Would a piece of an irrigation hose be easier to work with than a piece of a water hose (in terms of slicing and getting it over the section of compromise)? Any particular size to ask for at a hardware store? I think I'll do the same until it can be fixed by a dealer. Thanks!

ericnliz · September 2016

db_cooper, As long as you don't do it in the pink flamingo shorts, you're good to go!

ChanW · September 2016

No, that insulation on the fins shouldn't be there. It impedes the flow of cooling air. (But I bet you already suspected that @Photomom

)

Photomom said:

I took the cover off mine to check. I think the clips might be lower than they should be but the closest hose is about 1/3 inch from the fins and appears to be pretty stable, so In my judgment this can wait a bit.

I am wondering if the white insulation stuff should be lying on the fins like this.

.

ericnliz · September 2016

ChanW, I guess that brings up the question of... why is it there?

ChanW · September 2016

ericnliz, that would be the question!

My guess is that it's an attempt at insulating the exhaust pipe, which gets pretty hot. In the photo, in the lower left, you can see the silver flexible 'corrugated' exhaust pipe by peering between the propane hoses and the cooling fins.

If you lift the stove from the countertop, you can see it all better.

ericnliz · September 2016

Chan, thanks, I'll take another peek as my first concern was the propane hose, then all the propane connections for tightness.

Ratkity · September 2016

ericnliz said:

Good one DurangoTaB & PXL both, I needed a good chuckle this morning. [Ratkity, sorry it was at your expense...not really ]

Always up for a good one from the master!

JustJohn · September 2016

ericnliz said:

ChanW, I guess that brings up the question of... why is it there?

That is a great question and I suspect ChanW has the right answer. The next question is since most of us have installed the fan in the vent mod. or have it as a standard install, is the insulation still necessary? I removed it when I Ratkitted my hoses because it was partially blocking circulation to the fins. As a result my fridge is definitely running cooler and my cabinets are cooler to the touch. I am running on shore power so I didn't consider the effect if running on propane. I would guess, and it is a guess, is that it is no longer necessary and the removal of insulation increases airflow. This is really a question that needs to be addressed to PV. Maybe Verna can do that in her spare time.

Photomom · September 2016

I removed the access panel under the sink for a better look. I am guessing the insulation is there to keep the sink and under sink areas from getting hot. I have to assume that PV put it there for a reason so I'm not going to remove it, but I will try to reposition it so its not lying right on the fins.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/iw/q3isbvvevo43.jpg

I removed the screws holding the stove to the countertop but it is stuck down with some very neatly applied caulk so lifting it will be the last thing I want to do.

Tabaz · September 2016

Photomom - use a plastic putty knife to break the caulking bead around the stove. Works great and doesn't scratch the countertop.

ericnliz · September 2016

JustJohn, Careful with Verna at this point there buddy! That Magic Wand works in ways you don't EVEN want to test out

. She's probably waving it around furiously right now trying to help us all out with this recall. On another note, I don't think I'm going to remove the insulation, rather, just move it down further to protect everything else from that propane exhaust vent. That thing gets REALLY hot, so I'm quite sure that insulation was put there for a real good reason. Just my opinion on that one.

ChanW · October 2016

Yeah, the exhaust pipe needs to be insulated from the rest of the area. Careful what kind of insulation you use against that pipe. It needs to be rated at the high temp of the pipe. Alde specs probably sez what that temp is.

This is getting off topic. It's an important topic, so we probably should try to keep it focused.

ChanW · October 2016

Kayakath,

Edit of my previous post: I really haven't any idea if Nucamp will reimburse you for an unauthorized repair. I've experienced that policy with most automotive recalls, but don't know if the same would necessarily apply for camper recalls.

If you're uncomfortable with the condition/position of the hose, you could get it fixed and document everything, and hope NuCamp will reimburse you.

Tonydjd · October 2016

http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/2789/solution-finally-for-hot-counter-top#latest
See picture in thrrad

I too was curious you can see hose laying on fins and alreadd had some wear on it. I tried to move off fins but not enough slack in hose

Sharon_is_SAM · October 2016

One more comment about the insulation, would fiberboard insulation work instead of the standard insulation? Seems like it would stay in place to keep the sink area from heating up.

ScottG · October 2016

Another solution... Not necessarily any better than those already suggested, but it was quick and easy, and--for me at least--did not involve a shopping trip for parts.

As noted in my previous post, my particular issue stemmed from careless routing of the two gas hoses. The fridge hose was originally routed to the front of the cabinet. This cost a bit of slack, and forced it to cross over the stove hose. (Sorry, I should have taken a "before" picture, but I didn't.)

So, having noted that the two hoses were identical in terms of their fittings and their length, I detached them from their respective appliances and swapped them around. This not only eliminated the crossing over problem, but provided just enough slack in the fridge hose to allow me to clamp it securely to the back wall in a manner that holds it off the fins. (I used 1/2" conduit clamps only because that's what I had lying around.) This arrangement is similar to what is shown in PV's recall bulletin, and I consider it a permanent solution.

If this works for you and you want to attempt it, please note the following with regard to the propane fittings. Advice is worth what you pay for it, and I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE if you blow yourself up!

- When attaching or detaching a hose, use a second wrench to hold the companion fitting. You don't want to inadvertently loosen those from their respective appliance.

- The hose attachments utilize flared fittings. Unlike ordinary threaded fittings, these should not be used with sealing compound or tape.

- After you swap the hoses and snug down the fittings, turn on the gas and spread soapy water at the joint to ensure there are no leaks. (And while you're at it, you might as well also check other fittings in the vicinity.)

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/wg/394kis1p6gn8.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/wi/y8g5rqw0mgrm.jpg

ChanW · October 2016

Nice job Scott. Glad you pointed out the technical points re when not to use thread sealant.

mickietucs · October 2016

leenscottfl said:

I too have hoses touching fins and I too am getting ready to head out for a few weeks. So I tie wrapped irrigation hose over the gas lines and put all back where I found it. I can't imagine the problem worsening. When I return home I will see what the fine folks who build our toys can do for me.

What size irrigation hose should I get?

Nomad · October 2016

ScottG - Switching hoses looks like an easy way to go. Could probably get any appliance service company to do that if one didn't feel they could do it themselves.

mickietucs · October 2016

For a temporary "block" between the hoses and fins I stuck a thick rubber sprinkler valve washer in there. Do you think this is okay until I take it in? May be a few months before that will happen.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/eh/blov006vh7a6.jpg

marknjudy · October 2016

I'm pretty sure I'm safe here. Not the greatest pic but if anyones sees a problem let me know

EXPANDED RECALL OF T@B 320's from 1/1/2013 to 8/31/2016 for 3-way refrigerators

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