Best Of

I know brakes, and have adjusted my TAB 320 CS-S brakes four times.

The CURT Echo is plain and simple a flawed product.

Sad that they continue to sell it, and that folks (like me!) have read the marketing hype and actually bought it.

what a waste $$... time to buy a reliable, easy-to-use use and dependable wired brake controller that is not dependent on voodoo logic start-up config sequences and smart phone tethering <sigh>.

We have a 2021 T@B 320 S Boondock and are using the Curt Echo wireless brake controller. I am not new to towing but new to using an electric brake controller.

At slow speeds (<25 MPH) when I apply the brakes, the trailer brakes apply fully. This lurches the TV forward. I was expecting a more smooth application of the trailer brakes. I have tried adjusting the settings using the phone app and there is no appreciable change. Is this normal? If not, any idea of the cause and how to resolve it?

We tow a 2022 320s Boondock with a 2021 Ridgeline.  We do have a sway control bar on for safety in any emergency maneuver, but it is completely stable without it.  You should not be experiencing any of the described sway issues if your rig is properly set up.  Forget sway control until you solve the problem.  Here are some likely culprits we learned in years of towing travel trailers:

As mentioned, too light on the tongue and/or too much weight in the back of the trailer.

Trailer not level front to back, okay if an inch or so too low in front, but never too high in front.

Too much weight behind the rear axle of the ridgeline, effectively lightening the steering axle, "floating" the front tires.  This is what a w.d. hitch corrects, but you should not be experiencing a light truck front axle if this lightweight trailer and truck are loaded properly.  If you need to load the truck bed heavy, especially in back, then indeed you need a weight distribution hitch.

Hitch ball too far from Ridgeline rear bumper.  The greater this distance, the more leverage sway tendencies are transmitted to the steering axle.  Get the hitch ball as close as you can to the truck rear bumper.

Squishy tires on the truck or trailer, maybe from too low tire pressure.  The less tire sidewall movement, the better.

Worn truck suspension or steering components, including shock absorbers.  Can you grab the back side of the truck bed and rock it back and forth sideways.  It should be tight.

A combination of these problems.

Doug

In California it is 55mph, and I try to keep my speed at a max of 60mph or lower.  I get the best fuel economy at 60 or under,  towing or not.
Cheers

Yes, trailer and tractor tires are a little different, as far as amount of use they get.  Also trailer tires are built a little different than auto/truck tires, most of which are steel belted radial tire’s, rated for higher RPMs.

Trailer tires, have stiffer side walls to support the load and preventing reducing the chance of flipping a trailer over in a blowout or under inflated situation.  They are also slower moving off the dealer’s shelf, so the newest tire from date of manufacture is around two years.  My new Boondock tires from nüCamp that were received last year were made in 2019.

Replacing them when they get four years old from the date they were made, it not practical or necessary.  Depending on hard they are used, I would replace a RV trailer tire that gets lots of use, and racks up high milage every three max.  A trailer that gets light to moderate use, with less highway miles and mostly used at lower speeds, should be good for 4-5 years of use (depending on use) not to exceed 10 years since the tire was manufactured.

In every case, i would inspect the tires before each major road trip, or at least once every six months to a year, in light to moderate use, and replace if signs of sidewall checking or any tire damage are noticed.  Good luck and safe traveles.
Cheers