Best Of
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
Yeah, the hitch on these is really temperamental. The first few times out it was so stuck that we bent the latch trying to force it open. Luckily I was able to google the fix (fore aft issue @qhumberd spoke of). Now whenever we hitch or unhitch I always make sure to just give the truck a little gas to get the ball more fore so the coupler releases.
Re: Solar panel not working?
@ColoradoJon, I have a 2018 TaB400 with the older 2-way compressor fridge. The power consumption rating you are showing is what a 3-way fridge would draw running on DC. The 2-way compressor fridge uses far less energy, and a 180-190 watt solar panel should not have any issue keeping the battery charged with the 2-way fridge running at 30-40F (about 2.5 setting). The fridge draws about 3.5 amps when running, but it does Not run continuously.
We had the trailer in NorCal inland at Clear Lake in October, and ran the 2-way fridge on battery during a 3-day power outage whilst we were camping. We didn’t hook up the first night, and ran the fridge on battery, by mid day next day when we finally could get to our reserved spot and hook up, the 190-watt solar had recharged the battery back to 13.x VDC. The next day, the power went out for three days, and we boondocked three more nights and 2.5 days without power, fridge running, solar,panel,fading West under a small tree, somit was it partial shade, and again, by mid day the overnight batter use, fridge, lights and ceiling fan, the battery was back up to greater than 13VDC. This is my real world experience. Not sure what is going on with thenOP’s system.
cheers
cheers
Re: Solar panel not working?
I think that you're overestimating the fridge's power usage. The 2-way fridges draw 3.5-5amps when running. But they don't run constantly. More like 30% of the time.ColoradoJon said:A 180 watt panel will produce, at its very best and in optimal conditions, just under 13 amps per hour. That's in clear, bright, super sunny days with no shade or passing clouds. Let's say the panels get 7 hours optimal sunlight - that's only 91 amps during light hours. The first screen shot is showing a yield of just over 12 amps (280wh / ~23V)
If the fridge uses 5 amps per hour on average, that's 120 amps in a 24 hour period. This is with no other load at all - everything else shut off and no phantom drain.
Just not enough panel to run the fridge and charge the battery.
Re: Solar panel not working?
Something is amiss, the 180-watt solar panel should be more than capable of keeping up with the fridge. Our older two-way which uses a bit more power, when on, and the 190-watt solar panel has no issue keeping up with the drain from the fridge. I would do a rested battery check after the battery has been charged. Then run the fridge with solar panel working, and do a second rested battery test after leaving it run for 4-6 hrs, and see what the change in the reading is, if any? Once the battery is charged, the solar should not be in bulk mode.
Cheers
Re: Should I Remove The Battery In Storage?
If the reason is security, then take the battery out.
If you want to leave the battery in: charge the battery. Turn the battery switch off. A fully charged battery will hold a charge for months. No need to put it on a charger, etc.
Re: Should I Remove The Battery In Storage?
My tab is also in a storage lot and I hooked a small trickle charger (via alligator clips) to the battery. I can still close the tub (just shut, not completely closed but no problems). My spare tire is on the front and I put the panel to the top of the spare and use parachord to secure it. It's worked well for years. And I can still cover the trailer.
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
Thanks qhumberd - this is what I was afraid of. I also don't want to operate it in this condition. At this point I think replacing the coupler is the easiest fix with the least amount of money, but I'm trying to get someone from Nucamp on the phone to confirm.
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
The video is very helpful and to my eye as this is a used trailer, it appears that someone has applied force on the latch yoke area, perhaps to try to get it off the ball by force. To those not familiar with this system (I was not), it can get stuck and the natural tendency is to just force it. In reality others on the forum have taught me that the ball alignment fore and aft can fix this and that has worked for me each time now. It should not require any significant force to open or close the yoke when it is aligned on the ball correctly. Excessive force could have messed up the alignment with the latch handle. I would have a trailer shop or dealer who understands these latches take a look and see if it would be safe to try to realign the parts versus replacing the moving yoke and latch, if that is an option. If it is not working it can be a safety hazard so be careful.
Re: Solar panel not working?
A 180 watt panel will produce, at its very best and in optimal conditions, just under 13 amps per hour. That's in clear, bright, super sunny days with no shade or passing clouds. Let's say the panels get 7 hours optimal sunlight - that's only 91 amps during light hours. The first screen shot is showing a yield of just over 12 amps (280wh / ~23V)
If the fridge uses 5 amps per hour on average, that's 120 amps in a 24 hour period. This is with no other load at all - everything else shut off and no phantom drain.
Just not enough panel to run the fridge and charge the battery.
If the fridge uses 5 amps per hour on average, that's 120 amps in a 24 hour period. This is with no other load at all - everything else shut off and no phantom drain.
Just not enough panel to run the fridge and charge the battery.
Re: Emergency brake question - 2021 Tab400
Be aware that if the switch is NOT working the brakes will be in one of two states: either the switch has failed "open" or it has failed "closed." If it has failed open you will not have any emergency brakes should the trailer become disconnected--regardless if the brake pin is inserted or not. If it has failed closed the brakes will be on as long as the battery switch is on. In the latter case you might not be able to properly insert the brake pin into the switch anyway so that might be a clue.
Before you leave camp tomorrow you can check to see if the brakes are locked on. Hitch up as usual and start to tow slowly. If the brakes are on you will know within a very few feet. If you are on pavement and have a powerful enough tow vehicle you may scrub some rubber. If you are on dirt or gravel you will be able to see the drag marks.
The good news is that those switches are readily available at almost any trailer (RV or other kind) dealer. Other than needing to be wired into the circuit and screwed to the frame it is easy to install. The trailer place might even be willing to do it for you.
Before you leave camp tomorrow you can check to see if the brakes are locked on. Hitch up as usual and start to tow slowly. If the brakes are on you will know within a very few feet. If you are on pavement and have a powerful enough tow vehicle you may scrub some rubber. If you are on dirt or gravel you will be able to see the drag marks.
The good news is that those switches are readily available at almost any trailer (RV or other kind) dealer. Other than needing to be wired into the circuit and screwed to the frame it is easy to install. The trailer place might even be willing to do it for you.