Best Of
Re: Another New T@B Owner
Mellow_Yellow said:@AnOldUR - I hope you find another T@B soon that's just right for you!
Well, that didn't take long. Our daughter saw a T@B 320 S at a dealer not far from her house. We took a look this morning and left a deposit. Ended up spending an additional four grand, but got a 2020 instead of a 2018. The dealer, Colonial Airstream in Millstone NJ, was the complete opposite of what we experienced with Fretz. Very professional and up front. A pleasure to do business with them. There were other things about the first sale that we were not comfortable with, but in the excitement were willing to overlook. That sale falling through was for the best. Moving on, here the new (to us) one.
One thing we really like is that the air conditioner is under the bench seat instead of taking room on the wall. I've seen microwaves in the spot where the air was in the 2018. Wondering if anyone has added that on their own?
Re: Another New T@B Owner
Since you are in NJ, you could consider contacting Miller Trailer Sales in Perkasie, PA. They are a smaller, family-owned nuCamp dealer, and our experience with them has been very positive. I've seen several other posts on the forum about them that indicate our experience with Miller is not unique.AnOldUR said:Tampakayaker said:Where are you located?We're in New Jersey, but retired last year, so traveling to find what we want is not a problem. The deal we just lost was from Fretz RV in Pennsylvania. Salesman was at best incompetent. It was a learning experience that will help with future shopping.Our thoughts were the same as what you said. We are hoping that as Covid becomes less of an issue more used nuCamps will be available. May even consider new to avoid going through this again. Suffering from a bit of burn-out after this purchasing disaster, but we'll be back on the bike in no time.
Re: Yet Another Thor Floor
Thank you so much for posting this Mod. We purchased our 2006 CS last January knowing the floor had some soft spots. Fast forward to December, when we took up the linoleum and realized the floor, the entire floor, was rotted and aluminum frame broken in more than one spot.
Thanks to your very detailed mod, my husband and his cousin replaced the floor in two weeks time! Pretty good for two 70+ year old guys! Thank you again!
Thanks to your very detailed mod, my husband and his cousin replaced the floor in two weeks time! Pretty good for two 70+ year old guys! Thank you again!
Re: 2021 T@B 320S - storage issues?
Our 2021 TAB 320s will be ready to pick up soon. We were aware of storage issues, and since we often will be boondocking (not hooked up to shore power), we opted for an upper cabinet rather than the microwave. This, I expect, will be delightfully accessible storage.
Also, the under-kitchen-sink cabinets are, as noted above, considerably freer of plumbing for more usable storage. I've measured under the seat where the A/C unit is, and there actually is some space there that could be carefully used. The pull out bed slats free the space under the door side wheel well bench. More small nooks, door storage than in our 2019 TAB 320s BL.
My concern is actually the clearance between the back seat backs and the overhead cabinets. Will I be able to stuff our bedroll through the narrower space? Looks like I may need to slide the seat cushions forward for more clearance to tilt in the seat backs.
I made a list of over thirty advantages for us in the 2021 over our 2019. And a half a dozen trade-offs. We are expecting to be happy.
Re: Cold in Texas
One more gallon did the trick to prime the pump. Thanks!Sharon_is_SAM said:@SubaruLou - Try adding more antifreeze to the fresh tank or just disconnect the intake side of the pump and draw directly from a bottle of antifreeze. You are smart to do this because no telling if you will lose power.
Fuses and SmartShunt for new internal Solar Controller (nerdy)
I've reviewed the prevous very helpful diagrams of the earlier 320's. I'm now about to install a second Victron MTTP controller for remote panels and move my smartshunt from tub to under the bench. In reviewing the current wiring all is in place to:
1- A minor wiring change for the installation of a Zamp connector in front of the driver side wheel. I will connect it to the existing MTTP controller in parallel with the existing battery wires. All remote wiring will have MC4 connectors for weather resistance. I'm concerned that a label should be added to the side of the trailer indicating the input is to be used ONLY with panels without a controller (though this may be overkill) as a controlled solar input will NOT allow the panels to charge the battery. A bypass switch would NOT be a safe idea.
BUT I noticed that the factory installed controller has a 30 amp fuse in line with the solar panel lead. This doesn't make any sense as the panels CANNOT generate nearly enough current to blow this fuse. I was thinking to add a 15 amp on the output of my new 75/15 controller to protect it in case a wire shorts on the way to the battery's 30 AMP fuse. Though depending on how the controller is powered it may not be needed even here. The same logic holds for the factory installed controller but they put it on the wrong lead. What am I missing?
2 - For the SmartShunt, I'm repurposing the Trailer's white wire from the battery to Controller to be the battery to shunt connection and adding a short wire from the shunt to the controller(s). I'll leave the second white wire at the battery alone as it is for the trailer lights that are powered from the TV. I think the existing white wiring can or with a minor change in the "J Box" be changed to handle the TV's battery charging monitoring separately and go through the shunt.
Other than I'd prefer to mount the remote power input in the front middle of the T@B to optimize locating the remote array, the above uses the existing battery charge wiring without adding to power losses. As a consequence, it eliminates the added bulk in the front tub. NOTE if factory wiring for solar panels is not currently installed my solution may not be as good as putting it in the tub. Also I have no clue how pre-2021 320s were wired.
Also in deference to the experienced users' observations: the twin but hard connected remote panels will have a box to either series or parallel them to study outputs based on existing solar input conditions.
Kindly add concerns on what I may be missing...
Mark (...a bear with very little brain...)
1- A minor wiring change for the installation of a Zamp connector in front of the driver side wheel. I will connect it to the existing MTTP controller in parallel with the existing battery wires. All remote wiring will have MC4 connectors for weather resistance. I'm concerned that a label should be added to the side of the trailer indicating the input is to be used ONLY with panels without a controller (though this may be overkill) as a controlled solar input will NOT allow the panels to charge the battery. A bypass switch would NOT be a safe idea.
BUT I noticed that the factory installed controller has a 30 amp fuse in line with the solar panel lead. This doesn't make any sense as the panels CANNOT generate nearly enough current to blow this fuse. I was thinking to add a 15 amp on the output of my new 75/15 controller to protect it in case a wire shorts on the way to the battery's 30 AMP fuse. Though depending on how the controller is powered it may not be needed even here. The same logic holds for the factory installed controller but they put it on the wrong lead. What am I missing?
2 - For the SmartShunt, I'm repurposing the Trailer's white wire from the battery to Controller to be the battery to shunt connection and adding a short wire from the shunt to the controller(s). I'll leave the second white wire at the battery alone as it is for the trailer lights that are powered from the TV. I think the existing white wiring can or with a minor change in the "J Box" be changed to handle the TV's battery charging monitoring separately and go through the shunt.
Other than I'd prefer to mount the remote power input in the front middle of the T@B to optimize locating the remote array, the above uses the existing battery charge wiring without adding to power losses. As a consequence, it eliminates the added bulk in the front tub. NOTE if factory wiring for solar panels is not currently installed my solution may not be as good as putting it in the tub. Also I have no clue how pre-2021 320s were wired.
Also in deference to the experienced users' observations: the twin but hard connected remote panels will have a box to either series or parallel them to study outputs based on existing solar input conditions.
Kindly add concerns on what I may be missing...
Mark (...a bear with very little brain...)
New from Vermont
So glad to join the TAB Forum. Have lots of questions, but for now happy to connect. We got our TAB 320 S in May 2020 in St. George, UT. We were taking annual March vacation at Solitude to ski and visit children and grand children. COVID quickly changed our return plans. By May we realized flying and staying in hotels was out of the question. So we sprung for our first ever camper, TAB 320 S. There were none left in Salt Lake City so we traveled to St. George. Immediately joined daughter and family for a weekend of Boondocking in/on Gooseberry Mesa. Quite an adventure. We are hooked. Got back to Vermont for summer. Now need to get back to the mountains. I figured out with help of youtube videos the winterization process, hope I got it right. She is currently nested under trees and a foot of snow. My question which led me to the forum was can we run the Alde heating system without using water heater. Thinking of traveling back to Utah in March, probably too early to fully dewinterize. The Alde site says YES this can be done. Looking for feedback from the forum. Enjoyed a couple of similar posts. Also I need to replace battery. Would like a good, AGM, not Lithium. Look forward to learning a lot from this forum.
Re: Another New T@B Owner
@AnOldUR - I hope you find another T@B soon that's just right for you! Keep your eyes peeled on here. In case this is helpful, someone mentioned this dealer: https://jerryscampingcenter.com/inventory/
They have LOTS of lovely T@Bs
They have LOTS of lovely T@Bs
Re: Shower latch caution
ChanW said:Heh! Just a little heads up for those single campers...
Note that the latch on the shower door does loosen up after a while. If left in the "pointing up" position, it can inadvertently wiggle itself down to the "locked" position.
Yep, real world problem for solo travellers.
Recently removed the 'factory latch' completely due to realistic fear of being locked in. Now use a small spring clamp at top of door during travelling. Can never be locked in and has a big plus of keeping the long magnet strip in place on wash-board roads
Recently removed the 'factory latch' completely due to realistic fear of being locked in. Now use a small spring clamp at top of door during travelling. Can never be locked in and has a big plus of keeping the long magnet strip in place on wash-board roads
Picture added in later post (10-15-2020)
Re: Alde 3020 - heat only from bed vents
Shame on me for not scrolling up on this thread before my most recent post. Yep, these are the folks. And yes, John and his shop recently were approved as Alde services providers. John owns a 320 and is very familiar with T@B's.Bayliss said:@lisadbricker, I believe that @N7SHG_Ham may be referring to Enhanced Performance Systems in San Diego. There is nothing on their website that references it, but I recall that one of the owners, a T@B owner, announced at some point that they are doing glycol exchanges. I do not know if they are an authorized dealer for Alde repairs, but give them a call at (619)-663-5849 and see if they can help you out. Ask for John Schilling, but anybody there should be able to let you know if they work on the Alde.
Since the trailer is under warranty, you can contact nuCamp, but they will likely refer you to Truma/Alde, so you might as well start with them first. If Enhanced Performance Systems can't help you out, then Truma/Alde can direct you to the nearest service center. BUT, regardless of who does the warranty work, get a pre-authorization from Truma/Alde first. Otherwise, you may be stuck paying the bill.
Below is the Enhanced Performance Systems website, but again, there is nothing I could find there regarding the glycol exchange:
https://www.enhancedperformancesystems.com/
I have John's cell number if you need it. Good luck!
