Best Of
Re: What is the secret to the coupler?
This video is embedded in one of the threads linked above. Kind of a specific description of what is happening with the coupler as it goes about its day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq3f8b37laQ&t=2s
Re: What is the secret to the coupler?
Patience is a very good trait to have.
Re: Let’s love the Alde and ketchup on everything :-0
Cave Creek Canyon outside of Portal, AZ is one of our favorite spots. Beautiful area but there are some big Timber Rattlers in there too so be careful. And speaking of hot dogs, you haven’t tasted a good coney dog until you’ve had a Flint style coney made with Kogel’s Vienna franks. People ship this brand around the country they are so tasty! And yes, they taste awesome with mustard, onion, sweet relish and ketchup! Nummy!
Re: Changing out the Alde fluid.
On our 320 the low point with the trailer tipped forward would be under the passenger side bench near the door. Seems like it would be easy for the factory to put a fitting near that radiator that you could attach a hose and gravity drain out the door to a bucket. I'm going to investigate that possibility with a friend who's a bit handier than me. He's put quick disconnects on all types of motorsports equipment to flush and drain easier. Got to be a way.
Re: Changing out the Alde fluid.
My thoughts as well. I was tracing my T@b system today looking for a low point that, in conjunction with the boiler drain, could be used to gravity drain the whole system. Problem is, if you are under warranty and modify the system, I think you void the warranty. However, if that low point corresponds to a hose connection, that opens up other options.
Re: Mounting Smart Shunt
Hi all. I finally got to work on my upgrade from group 24, to 2 6v FLA Trojan batteries and installation of the Victron Smart Shunt as the temperature got up from highs in the 30s to a high of about 57 yesterday. My husband provided the brawn hefting those 65# monsters into a "Verna-style" box after attaching said box to the front tub with sheet metal screws. After lots of agonizing about the Smart shunt over the past few weeks - which project box, which gland size, where to mount, etc, I realized that there is room to attach the shunt above the batteries. inside the battery box, thus eliminating the need for project box and associated peripherals.
I will be mounting the shunt (hopefully) using Dual Lock. After cleaning the area with alcohol, letting it dry, and warming the area with a hair dryer I affixed a piece of the Dual Lock to the inside of the box, above the battery. For the best chance at good adhesion I will let the piece of DL sit, without any load, for a day or so. I've also added the companion DL to my shunt and will let that "cure" as well. Worse case, we will attach the shunt with small bolts.
While waiting for the recommended "cure time", I reconnected the camper and roof top solar wires to the battery directly so that I can work in the camper with some heat and so that the batteries will remain charged. Unfortunately, our brief spell of warmer weather will be short lived and I don't want those FLAs discharging in the cold, unconnected to a power source.
So, step one is accomplished, including what I think are pretty solid crimps on the neg/ground terminals. (I had to change out the negative terminals to 3/8 inch so they would fit onto the shunt.) In the next few days I'll disconnect the negatives, install the Smart shunt, and reconnect to the shunt as per many excellent videos and the quick start instructions provided with the shunt.
Thanks to everyone who helped with links, photos, comments and encouragement. I will post again when all is done.
I will be mounting the shunt (hopefully) using Dual Lock. After cleaning the area with alcohol, letting it dry, and warming the area with a hair dryer I affixed a piece of the Dual Lock to the inside of the box, above the battery. For the best chance at good adhesion I will let the piece of DL sit, without any load, for a day or so. I've also added the companion DL to my shunt and will let that "cure" as well. Worse case, we will attach the shunt with small bolts.
While waiting for the recommended "cure time", I reconnected the camper and roof top solar wires to the battery directly so that I can work in the camper with some heat and so that the batteries will remain charged. Unfortunately, our brief spell of warmer weather will be short lived and I don't want those FLAs discharging in the cold, unconnected to a power source.
So, step one is accomplished, including what I think are pretty solid crimps on the neg/ground terminals. (I had to change out the negative terminals to 3/8 inch so they would fit onto the shunt.) In the next few days I'll disconnect the negatives, install the Smart shunt, and reconnect to the shunt as per many excellent videos and the quick start instructions provided with the shunt.
Thanks to everyone who helped with links, photos, comments and encouragement. I will post again when all is done.
Re: HELP! Reversed polarity of the trailer itself!
Thanks @dragonsdofly. It sounds like it will all work out.
I guess I assumed that someone had tried to create a ground connection using a bootleg jumper. Just to keep it straight, I did some editing to my last post above to describe a situation where there was no ground wire to start with (i.e., only a hot and neutral, without a ground wire), just to clarify what I was trying to convey. In the drawing of the three outlets in that article (see below), the first outlet depicts how a standard three-wire system is connected; the second depicts a bootleg ground; whereas the third outlet depicts the problem I thought might be the issue - - a reversed bootleg, which incorrectly has the hot and neutral wires swapped.
I guess I assumed that someone had tried to create a ground connection using a bootleg jumper. Just to keep it straight, I did some editing to my last post above to describe a situation where there was no ground wire to start with (i.e., only a hot and neutral, without a ground wire), just to clarify what I was trying to convey. In the drawing of the three outlets in that article (see below), the first outlet depicts how a standard three-wire system is connected; the second depicts a bootleg ground; whereas the third outlet depicts the problem I thought might be the issue - - a reversed bootleg, which incorrectly has the hot and neutral wires swapped.
Re: Alde/Truma changing glycol brand in new models. (NOT A RECALL)
It is not nuCamp, it is Alde that has changed their recommended glycol for the US market.
It is not clear to me that they expect everyone to change to the RhoGuard. It is specific to new units for warranty coverage.
It is not clear to me that they expect everyone to change to the RhoGuard. It is specific to new units for warranty coverage.
Re: HOW I SAVED MY MARRIAGE! Lessons learned, mods made during our maiden season.
My hubby & I are getting our 320 next week and this is so helpful!!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to post all of that. Especially appreciate the pics and links!
Re: Bike Rack for TAB 400
Did somebody say bike rack? Since I can't increase my tongue weight on my 2019, I came up with another plan to protect our $$$$ RAD Mini folding bikes.
