Best Of
Fuses and SmartShunt for new internal Solar Controller (nerdy)
I've reviewed the prevous very helpful diagrams of the earlier 320's. I'm now about to install a second Victron MTTP controller for remote panels and move my smartshunt from tub to under the bench. In reviewing the current wiring all is in place to:
1- A minor wiring change for the installation of a Zamp connector in front of the driver side wheel. I will connect it to the existing MTTP controller in parallel with the existing battery wires. All remote wiring will have MC4 connectors for weather resistance. I'm concerned that a label should be added to the side of the trailer indicating the input is to be used ONLY with panels without a controller (though this may be overkill) as a controlled solar input will NOT allow the panels to charge the battery. A bypass switch would NOT be a safe idea.
BUT I noticed that the factory installed controller has a 30 amp fuse in line with the solar panel lead. This doesn't make any sense as the panels CANNOT generate nearly enough current to blow this fuse. I was thinking to add a 15 amp on the output of my new 75/15 controller to protect it in case a wire shorts on the way to the battery's 30 AMP fuse. Though depending on how the controller is powered it may not be needed even here. The same logic holds for the factory installed controller but they put it on the wrong lead. What am I missing?
2 - For the SmartShunt, I'm repurposing the Trailer's white wire from the battery to Controller to be the battery to shunt connection and adding a short wire from the shunt to the controller(s). I'll leave the second white wire at the battery alone as it is for the trailer lights that are powered from the TV. I think the existing white wiring can or with a minor change in the "J Box" be changed to handle the TV's battery charging monitoring separately and go through the shunt.
Other than I'd prefer to mount the remote power input in the front middle of the T@B to optimize locating the remote array, the above uses the existing battery charge wiring without adding to power losses. As a consequence, it eliminates the added bulk in the front tub. NOTE if factory wiring for solar panels is not currently installed my solution may not be as good as putting it in the tub. Also I have no clue how pre-2021 320s were wired.
Also in deference to the experienced users' observations: the twin but hard connected remote panels will have a box to either series or parallel them to study outputs based on existing solar input conditions.
Kindly add concerns on what I may be missing...
Mark (...a bear with very little brain...)
1- A minor wiring change for the installation of a Zamp connector in front of the driver side wheel. I will connect it to the existing MTTP controller in parallel with the existing battery wires. All remote wiring will have MC4 connectors for weather resistance. I'm concerned that a label should be added to the side of the trailer indicating the input is to be used ONLY with panels without a controller (though this may be overkill) as a controlled solar input will NOT allow the panels to charge the battery. A bypass switch would NOT be a safe idea.
BUT I noticed that the factory installed controller has a 30 amp fuse in line with the solar panel lead. This doesn't make any sense as the panels CANNOT generate nearly enough current to blow this fuse. I was thinking to add a 15 amp on the output of my new 75/15 controller to protect it in case a wire shorts on the way to the battery's 30 AMP fuse. Though depending on how the controller is powered it may not be needed even here. The same logic holds for the factory installed controller but they put it on the wrong lead. What am I missing?
2 - For the SmartShunt, I'm repurposing the Trailer's white wire from the battery to Controller to be the battery to shunt connection and adding a short wire from the shunt to the controller(s). I'll leave the second white wire at the battery alone as it is for the trailer lights that are powered from the TV. I think the existing white wiring can or with a minor change in the "J Box" be changed to handle the TV's battery charging monitoring separately and go through the shunt.
Other than I'd prefer to mount the remote power input in the front middle of the T@B to optimize locating the remote array, the above uses the existing battery charge wiring without adding to power losses. As a consequence, it eliminates the added bulk in the front tub. NOTE if factory wiring for solar panels is not currently installed my solution may not be as good as putting it in the tub. Also I have no clue how pre-2021 320s were wired.
Also in deference to the experienced users' observations: the twin but hard connected remote panels will have a box to either series or parallel them to study outputs based on existing solar input conditions.
Kindly add concerns on what I may be missing...
Mark (...a bear with very little brain...)
New from Vermont
So glad to join the TAB Forum. Have lots of questions, but for now happy to connect. We got our TAB 320 S in May 2020 in St. George, UT. We were taking annual March vacation at Solitude to ski and visit children and grand children. COVID quickly changed our return plans. By May we realized flying and staying in hotels was out of the question. So we sprung for our first ever camper, TAB 320 S. There were none left in Salt Lake City so we traveled to St. George. Immediately joined daughter and family for a weekend of Boondocking in/on Gooseberry Mesa. Quite an adventure. We are hooked. Got back to Vermont for summer. Now need to get back to the mountains. I figured out with help of youtube videos the winterization process, hope I got it right. She is currently nested under trees and a foot of snow. My question which led me to the forum was can we run the Alde heating system without using water heater. Thinking of traveling back to Utah in March, probably too early to fully dewinterize. The Alde site says YES this can be done. Looking for feedback from the forum. Enjoyed a couple of similar posts. Also I need to replace battery. Would like a good, AGM, not Lithium. Look forward to learning a lot from this forum.
Re: Another New T@B Owner
@AnOldUR - I hope you find another T@B soon that's just right for you! Keep your eyes peeled on here. In case this is helpful, someone mentioned this dealer: https://jerryscampingcenter.com/inventory/
They have LOTS of lovely T@Bs
They have LOTS of lovely T@Bs
Re: Shower latch caution
ChanW said:Heh! Just a little heads up for those single campers...
Note that the latch on the shower door does loosen up after a while. If left in the "pointing up" position, it can inadvertently wiggle itself down to the "locked" position.
Yep, real world problem for solo travellers.
Recently removed the 'factory latch' completely due to realistic fear of being locked in. Now use a small spring clamp at top of door during travelling. Can never be locked in and has a big plus of keeping the long magnet strip in place on wash-board roads
Recently removed the 'factory latch' completely due to realistic fear of being locked in. Now use a small spring clamp at top of door during travelling. Can never be locked in and has a big plus of keeping the long magnet strip in place on wash-board roads
Picture added in later post (10-15-2020)
Re: Alde 3020 - heat only from bed vents
Shame on me for not scrolling up on this thread before my most recent post. Yep, these are the folks. And yes, John and his shop recently were approved as Alde services providers. John owns a 320 and is very familiar with T@B's.Bayliss said:@lisadbricker, I believe that @N7SHG_Ham may be referring to Enhanced Performance Systems in San Diego. There is nothing on their website that references it, but I recall that one of the owners, a T@B owner, announced at some point that they are doing glycol exchanges. I do not know if they are an authorized dealer for Alde repairs, but give them a call at (619)-663-5849 and see if they can help you out. Ask for John Schilling, but anybody there should be able to let you know if they work on the Alde.
Since the trailer is under warranty, you can contact nuCamp, but they will likely refer you to Truma/Alde, so you might as well start with them first. If Enhanced Performance Systems can't help you out, then Truma/Alde can direct you to the nearest service center. BUT, regardless of who does the warranty work, get a pre-authorization from Truma/Alde first. Otherwise, you may be stuck paying the bill.
Below is the Enhanced Performance Systems website, but again, there is nothing I could find there regarding the glycol exchange:
https://www.enhancedperformancesystems.com/
I have John's cell number if you need it. Good luck!
Re: Another New T@B Owner
B0atguy said:What kind of complications are you having ? Should be pretty straight forward for a used RV . Perhaps they are waiting for title or payoff from the prior owner ?
The first thing was getting the hitch right. Until I found it here and told them, they didn't know about the 16" ball height and would have given me the wrong drop distance. They also were not aware that the previous owner had friction sway control and that the ball on the frame was already installed. In fairness to them, this was a recent trade-in and right after they got it we had over a foot of snow. I sent them a list of what I thought would work and they agreed with my choices and will supply them. Here's what I should be getting:
B0atguy said:If you are financing , that could take a little time . Shouldn't take them long to detail and make it ready for delivery, unless they found something wrong ?
B0atguy said:Were you able to find the build date on the front sticker ? , That little bit of info, can save you LOTS of headache down the road ! Again, just an FYI .
B0atguy said:Oh , also anther FYI . That unit is currently on Ebay , still getting bids . One more day to go . Wonder if the dealer is waiting to see if the ebay auction will net more than you paid for it ? Something sounds fishy ....... Caveat Emptor .
That is fishy. Hoping that they're leaving it up for advertising, but I won't be happy until the sale is complete.
B0atguy said:Hope everything works out for you , and everything is good to go !
Re: Another New T@B Owner
Heard from nuCamp this morning and they say this trailer is outside the manufacturing dates of the recall. What a relief! I've been somewhat of a pain for the dealer with all my questions, so at this point I'll just wait the two days until I take delivery before making any additional waves.
I've had great communications with the service department, but still waiting for sales to get back letting me know if the original contract covers components needed for the friction sway control. Since it was visibly already installed, my view is that it should be included as part of the sale.
Re: Another New T@B Owner
@AnOldUR , that is Awesome ! I was worried about that for you !
Good luck with the new T@B , and hope everything goes well with your delivery on Friday !
Good luck with the new T@B , and hope everything goes well with your delivery on Friday !
Re: TAB 400 All Pro Awning
@crabtab...I know there are a few on FB T@b Camping Trailer group...not sure if they are in this group though..
Re: Another New T@B Owner
That's great news, @AnOldUR! Congrats on your new T@B and hope the rest of the sales/service process go smoothly for you.
