Best Of
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
Forgive me, I'm a newbie... I was reading through this awesome thread prepping for a fluid change and wondered if anyone had encountered "the bulges"... I found at least one bulging heater hose connection at each convector. Being an old auto mechanic I knew bulges are NOT a good thing. Upon diving in, as I always do, I discovered my fear was well-founded. I've tried to add a pic, hope it works. I've also contacted Alde Service and have started emailing with Truma/Alde on what to do. Just wondering if anyone else has run into this and what my future might hold.
Re: Has anybody got any info on 2023 T@B 400's ?
Our delivery for the 2023 tab 400 is set for delivery middle to end of September, really anxious to see the new re-designed dinette conversion, reconfigured bath, and overhead bunk area and how nuCamp is incorporating the hidden bunk. I am a huge fan of the Lagun table so that’s a plus. If anyone has any internet leads or photos of the new changes would be awesome to see! Otherwise waiting for dealer to provide the latest information, to date they don’t have!
Broken, worn out, or lost T@B window clip?
Those little gray T@B window clips wear out fast and are always popping off in the middle of the night, breaking, or disappearing. Replacements in North America are almost impossible to find.
Guess what I found actually holds better... a standard 1¼" medium binder clip available almost anywhere office supplies are sold.
They hold the day/night screens together tighter and if you use two on each window there is little to no chance the screen and shade will pull apart when adjusting them... and if you do drop one it's much easier to find in your bare feet...
Guess what I found actually holds better... a standard 1¼" medium binder clip available almost anywhere office supplies are sold.
They hold the day/night screens together tighter and if you use two on each window there is little to no chance the screen and shade will pull apart when adjusting them... and if you do drop one it's much easier to find in your bare feet...
A lifetime supply is under 10 bucks... https://amzn.to/3BdIEJl Not as pretty but they work better.
Re: Isn't this producing 24v?
@slick2699 ; Your Batteries are correctly connected in Parallel.
In fact the Go Power literature states they can not be connected in series. (perhaps because that will confuse the built-in BMS {battery management system})
You can tell the batteries are in Parallel because the Positive Terminals are connected (shorted) together.
The figure below is from the Go Power 'Quick Start' flyer.
In fact the Go Power literature states they can not be connected in series. (perhaps because that will confuse the built-in BMS {battery management system})
You can tell the batteries are in Parallel because the Positive Terminals are connected (shorted) together.
The figure below is from the Go Power 'Quick Start' flyer.
Re: Isn't this producing 24v?
Your photo shows batteries connected in parallel - positive to positive and negative to negative. As it should be. Series connection would involve a positive to negative connection between the batteries.
Re: Removable outdoor shower hose mod
@Sierra, that plastic fitting is a pipe thread to fit the disconnect on one end and barbed on the other. I’m pretty sure it was 1/2” barb, but can’t remember. I know that I stuck the hose end into boiling water to soften it up so it would slip over the barbed end. It was a very snug fit and probably wouldn’t have leaked even without the hose clamp. I was not worried about cutting the original hose since I knew I’d never use it again and is easily replaced if the need was there.
Re: Does anyone have experience replacing the coupler?
I disagree. I think that the main problem is that people don't understand how these couplers work, so they are frustrating (especially for those of us who have used other types of couplers). The idea is that they won't release if the trailer is pushing forward at all (towards the user and the tow vehicle). As someone who's managed to do that, allowing a trailer to roll forward when the coupler was unlatched (putting a dent in my TV), I can see how this is a good safety feature. I do think that the manufacturer should put a sticker on it or it should ship with stamped metal hang tag explaining how to operate it. Especially since some people are actually making the situation worse by trying to force the lever, damaging the mechanism.CCC said:Over and over again. It is a sorry design.Marceline said:Have you tried pulling the trailer forward, even just a couple of inches, before you uncouple?CCC said:I have been having a terrible time with the factory coupler on my new 2022 320S Boondock. Either bad design or fit. I'm talking about the part that slips over the hitch ball and sort of levers down to lock up. Problem is it never wants to unlock and its taking 15-20 minutes or so fooling with it every time. I'm tempted to just go on of the simple oldfashioned ones bolted on.
If you are chocking your wheels, bumping the trailer forward a couple of inches, and the coupler still won't unlatch I don't know what to suggest other than maybe you have a defective or damaged coupler.
Re: Does anyone have experience replacing the coupler?
Also, before uncoupling the trailer, you need to chock the wheels from the front and back, especially if you are on slope. The trailer will roll in the direction of,the slope, making uncoupling harder. You want a neutral position on the TV ball and trailer hitch, with the 400 this can be challenging sometimes. I push the trailer into position, chock the wheels, and allow truck to go slightly forward, without moving the trailer, to get the ball centered in the hitch. Then it will uncouple with a slight push down on thenTV receiver as you lift the trailer up.
Cheers
Cheers
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
That’s the best technique to unhitch or hitch the trailer, but don’t forget to chock your wheels first before un-hitching the TV.
Cheers
Cheers