My wife made some flannel covers for the windows to keep them from being scratched. We previously used the "saran wrap" plastic film but it was a major PITA to use. The flannel covers have a small piece of elastic diagonally in each corner that hooks behind the window (you do not need to open the windows to do this).
We do the same as @HedCount, but use our decorative window awnings that we use while camping. We just put the awnings over the windows before covering the entire trailer with our Classic Accessories Perma Pro cover.
You might find a way to pin up the wires around the new connection such that there is NO mechanical stress on your solder joint. Solder *WILL* break over time with lots of vibration (reference marine industry recommendations).
... It's pretty clear the weight is not the issue, it's the wind resistance at higher speeds. I...
A Public Service Announcement: The power needed to overcome air drag increases by the cube of the speed increase. So e.g. speeding up from 60 to 70mph takes over 50% more power! It is really a big hit to your mpg.
I've started compiling my notes based on numerous forum comments and my own research. Before you can solve a problem you need to define the problem, and is this case there are several.
Replacing the Alde glycol can be broken down into four components,
each presenting its own challenges:
Remove
the old glycol. The T@B Alde system is
reported to hold 3+ gallons of glycol. There is an apparent low point drain in
the system, but multiple users report that removing the plug only results in a
gallon or so draining via gravity. The remaining fluid remains in the system
either trapped in pockets or prevented from draining by check valves. Where exactly
the non-draining fluid is located is unclear, so the effectiveness of incorporating
additional drain points cannot be predicted.
Fill with new glycol. Some owners have attempted to do this by
pouring new glycol into the expansion reservoir and allowing gravity and the
circulator pump to refill the system. While this approach may work, it appears
to be slow and inefficient.
Bleed residual air from the system.
North American Aldes incorporate an automatic air bleeder. There is also a
manual bleed valve located on the rear fin-tube convector. Owners who have gravity
drained and then topped up their system seem to report successful bleeding by
simply running the circulator pump and using the existing bleed valves. It’s
unclear if this approach is sufficient for bleeding the system after a complete
glycol exchange.
Accessing
the equipment. Most glycol exchange
methods will involve needing to access the glycol expansion reservoir and its
associated plumbing. Ease of such access will vary on different units, but is
likely to be challenging on T@B 320s where the reservoir is either behind the
rear cabinetry or (in the case of CS models) behind the bathroom wall.
Please to add to this if you think of something I have not covered here. The next step--which will likely take some time--will be to research and evaluate possible solutions.
@suwanneetabber When you look at the Andersen web site and select 2" ball size for the WDH you'll have two choices for brackets. We have the one with 3" up to 6" bracket. The c-channel frame on our 400 is over 4" tall, so I think the other bracket may be too small. Here is a pic... We use the WDH when towing with our Colorado. Our new Silverado doesn't need the WDH and has the MultiPro tailgate (that would hit a standard ball). We're looking at the B&W tow and stow as an option for that truck.
On the Andersen web site it clearly states that the WDH provides sway control. "The Andersen Hitches Weight Distribution Hitch line combines advanced sway and bounce control with a lightweight, innovative design. "
I use mine for bug spray, small umbrella, flashlight, extra dog leash, small towel for wiping paws, poop bags. FYI, I also hung a couple of command hooks for wet jackets, dog leash/harness, etc.
I had the same experience, went to an RV shop and they said it workekd fine on Propane. Makes me crazy. I have at least one post, maybe more on my experience.
I found the following on my ipad under files. First author is unknown IGNITION – PROPANE GAS OPERATION
Under normal operating conditions, with a properly maintained refrigerator, if you follow the
below instructions, your refrigerator should be easy to ignite when using propane gas:
1. Slowly open the valve at the propane gas storage tank. Opening the valve slowly will
reduce the chance of tripping the safety shutoff in the propane regulator, which will turn
off or limit the flow of propane.
2. Turn the Selector Switch (207) to the propane gas position (flame symbol.)
TIP: It is often helpful before lighting the refrigerator burner if you first light one or both
of the stove top burners. It may take a few attempts to light those burners, but doing
that will help draw propane into the gas lines and expel any air in those lines, which in
turn will make it much easier to light the refrigerator burner.
3. Turn the Propane Gas Control to the HI position (third flame symbol displayed behind the
control knob), which is located at approximately the 1:00 o’clock position of the control
knob (just as the setting for the control knob (294) is depicted in the above diagram.)
4. Push and hold in the Propane Gas Control (294.) This will start the gas flowing to the
igniter.
5. Push in the Piezo Lighter (216) several times in rapid succession for about five seconds
to ignite the propane gas flame. (NOTE: Per the Norcold owner’s manual, “Do not hold
in the gas control for more than 30 seconds. If there is no flame in this time, wait at least
five minutes before you try ignition again. If you continue to hold in the gas control, LP
gas will collect in the burner area. This could cause a fire or explosion and result in
dangerous personal injury or death.)
6. When properly ignited, a flame will be present at the refrigerator burner and the flame
meter (217) will slowly move to the right and into the green area of the meter. Once that
occurs, wait about five seconds before releasing the Propane Gas Control. IF the flame
meter does not move into the green area, repeat the above process (starting with Step 4)
after waiting a sufficient period for any lingering gas to dissipate from the burner area.
7. Use the Propane Gas Control (294) to set the desired temperature setting. Push and then
turn the control knob to either the LO, MED, or HI setting. HI is the coldest temperature
setting. These temperature settings are represented by a series of three flame symbols
of progressively increasing size, displayed from left to right (i.e., clockwise) around the
3
Propane Gas Control: “LO” is the smallest flame symbol; “MED” is a medium-sized flame;
“HI” is a larger-sized flame. There is a fourth, even larger flame displayed adjacent to a
power off symbol at the furthest clockwise point around the control knob. This is the
setting for turning the propane function “OFF” and is where the knob should be set when
not operating the refrigerator on propane gas.
With a full, or nearly full refrigerator, you may find that the MED setting is a good setting
to start with. Over time, you will determine the best temperature control setting for
proper cooling. That setting will likely be impacted by the outside air temperature.
Norcold clarifies in the owner’s manual that, “This is not an automatic gas control. It does
not change the flame from high fire to low fire as with other RV refrigerators. If the cooling
load changes, you must manually change the gas control to maintain the same
temperature inside the refrigerator.” You may find it helpful to purchase a small
refrigerator thermometer for monitoring the refrigerator compartment temperature.
From Jenn Grover:
advice is what has worked for me.
Here is my routine:
1. Check to make sure that the battery is sufficiently charged. The Norcold will not light if your battery is dead. It needs
ample charge to light and to run the fan if the ambient temperatures are warm enough.
2. Open the propane tank valve.
3. Light a stove burner to get the propane flowing.
4. Turn the power setting on the Norcold to the propane (flame icon) setting.
5. Turn the temperature gauge to the “Start” position. I have no idea why, but some dealers, including mine, have told
customers this is not necessary.
6. Press in the ignition button and wait for the green light to illuminate. Sometimes this happens right away, sometimes it
takes 30-45 seconds.
7. While holding the ignition button, turn the temperature dial to the desired temperature setting.
8. Continue to depress the ignition button for approximately another 30 seconds. If the light goes out, repeat the process
Tips
• If it is hot or humid, the manual recommends running it on AC or DC for 5 minutes before trying to ignite it on propane.
• Make sure your T@b is relatively level. If it is not level, you may have difficulty lighting the fridge. Being level from side
to side seems to be more important than front to back.
• Make sure you pre-cool your fridge before you leave, on AC for optimal performance.
• If you start your fridge on propane, and place warm items in the fridge, it will not properly refrigerate your food.
• Your fridge is not designed to run on battery, alone, while you camp. The three way fridge uses significantly
more energy- it uses almost 12ah. If camping, you need to plan to use AC or propane.
• LG T@bs have a high altitude kit, but you may still have some difficulties at higher elevation. Mine functioned without
difficulty at around 9000′
.
• The thermocoupler has been known to jiggle loose in transport. (HT: @ChanW )
• Per a user in the Yahoo group, the 3163 (our model) is known to have ignition problems. Evidently, the igniter and burner
are sometimes just far enough apart, that the arc does not quite connect. That user recommended slightly bending the
igniter towards the burner (down or counter clockwise.) I am not recommending that you do or not do this – do at your
own risk.
• On propane, the fridge is extremely quiet.
• The fridge does require a little battery to run. If your battery dies, you will be unable to light your fridge and it will not
stay lit.
• It helps to light your stove for 30 seconds, or so, to make sure the gas is flowing properly before trying to light the fridge.
• Your tow vehicle might not produce enough power to keep your battery charged while the fridge is on battery. The fridge
has a great seal. If your vehicle does not keep the battery charged sufficiently, try to alternate between using the fridge
and turning it off every couple of hours if driving for several hours.
• The Norcold uses a separate fuse. It is located under the cooktop on an S model.
• Clamshell models (CS) cannot use a three way fridge.
• There is a vent in the storage space below the fridge.
• A fan has been included in models that customers started receiving part of the way through calendar year 2015. If you
have this fan, there will be an on/off switch located on the front of the Norcold that you can turn on to help remove
excess heat. If you do not have the fan, you can call Pleasant Valley to request one.
• Your fridge may blow out during high wind situations. This happened to me a total of one during two significant wind
storms. I was able to immediately re-light the fridge.
Fuses
The Norcold uses three fuses. These fuses can be picked at RV parts stores or through Norcold repair centers.
1. AC Circuit – 3 Amp Type 3AG – Norcold Part #61654622
2. DC Circuit – 20 Amp Type 3AG – Norcold Part #61440522
3. Gas Circuit – 1 Amp Type 3AG – Norcold Part #618079