One thing that I would point out is metals prices have risen significantly due to tariffs so this is probably one reason that the prices people are being quoted today are much higher than what they heard a year ago.
Also from the Dealer standpoint they are going to want to be compensated for the time and effort of handling parts orders. It’s not really reasonable to expect them to do this for free.
I’m not saying that the prices people are getting today are reasonable or that I agree with the NuCamp decision about how parts are sold, but these are two factors that people ought to keep in mind.
I've had my 320 S only since September, but I did have an issue out of the gate. It was a dealer issue and not NuCamp. It was missing the screen door and on delivery day nobody said anything until I spoke up. I told them it was missing and they played dumb and said, "We've never seen screens on any of the other Tabs sold." Clue #1 this dealer is as bad as others have noted.
I told them I would not sign any papers unless it was noted about the screen and they ordered one right away. After pushing back a few times, and me threatening to walk out minus the Tab, they changed their tune. Part was ordered, but they weren't happy they had to order it. I was able to confirm with NuCamp that a screen door was in the unit when it left the factory.
The dealer I have to work with is General RV and they are the only dealer in Michigan that sells Tabs. I really dislike them and do not look forward having to deal with them more.
I use two Anderson levelers for winter (long term storage) as a means to possibly reduce flat spot by cradling the tires similar to how some collector cars are stored long term.
I would prefer not to spend $40 on a 64" sewer hose storage tube. I keep hoping to find a pvc drain pipe to strap to my tongue but my hoses don't fit inside a 4" tube. A 6" tube is humongous! I see that some of you have pvc pipe tubes mounted to the tongue. Your sewer hoses must be much smaller than mine, which have 5+ inch diameter end fittings. Looks like I'll either have to spend money on the $40 tube or buy smaller diameter hoses. ideas?
I don't think you need a new tow vehicle just for the kayaks. The T@b sticks up so high, there won't be much extra drag, especially with a lower roofed vehicle. We carried 2 fiberglass sea kayaks to Jasper and back and actually got a little better mileage than usual (might have been the higher altitude?). Getting the kayaks up there with an under 5ft. spouse is a challenge, so a lower car would be better in that regard.
If you're dead set on getting a new TV, pay attention to the torque ratings more than the horsepower. We've towed with both the 6 cyl Subaru Outback and the Xterra, and the extra torque of the Xterra is noticeable, even though horsepower ratings are similar. If the Ridgeline torque is not much more than the Lexus, you won't notice much improvement on hills. Of course the Sequoia will have torque and HP to spare pulling the T@b.
@Nan I used metal straps with nut and bolt. The last thing I want to worry about is zip tie failure on the road. I picked it all up at the local hardware store. I also drilled small drainage holes about every three inches along the bottom, which also helps with ventilation. Do this when the tube is empty. Someone back a ways had to replace his sewer hose when he left it in the tube while drilling holes. Good luck!
@SueBC there is a couple with a Tada in Vancouver, I believe, and he is active on the FB T@da, T@b, T@g Camper Trailer Owners closed group. I think there are others, too, but I can’t remember who right now. Yannis would know though!
@DougH, while I have not experienced those temperatures myself (and I don’t intend to), to get the fastest warm up in a deep freeze, you need to use both electric on “2” AND LPG Since the system always defaults to electric, once you reach your inside temperature, the LPG shuts off. It turns back on again when the temp. drops a couple degrees. Also, maintaining temperature is easier than warming all the surrounding materials that make up the TaB. ((See quote below from this thread.). I would also note, the radiant heat requires open vents and good air flow and will never have the immediate sensation of warmth that you get with a space heater.
Did you start with electric on 2?
“TaB electric heating is limited to 1900 watts (1.9 kw) and the propane minimum effect is 3.3 kw, so heat output and speed with the highest electric will always be slower than heating solely with LPG ( starts at 5.5 kw). Also, be aware of the effects of voltage loss by adding an extension cord - you may end up with less than 110 volts being delivered and that will impact the Alde output on electric. Lastly, when ambient temps are very low, the fastest heat up occurs by using both electric and LPG. The propane kicks on with the electric (controlled by the thermostat) and you get a combined 5.5 kw + 1.9 kw of power. Once you reach your set cabin temperature, the Alde turns off the LPG part of the boiler. At that point, if it is not too cold outside, you may be able to get away with just electric.”
Re: nüCamp revised — Purchasing from the Parts Department effective 1/1/2019
I told them I would not sign any papers unless it was noted about the screen and they ordered one right away. After pushing back a few times, and me threatening to walk out minus the Tab, they changed their tune. Part was ordered, but they weren't happy they had to order it. I was able to confirm with NuCamp that a screen door was in the unit when it left the factory.
The dealer I have to work with is General RV and they are the only dealer in Michigan that sells Tabs. I really dislike them and do not look forward having to deal with them more.